W85W58

2012 WR450 Starting woes

509 posts in this topic

Thanks I put in a charger plug right next to the programing plug. So I can plug the 12 volts into that plug and get 12V for the programer.

Do you have any pictures of this?  I'm still trying to picture what type of connection is used to hook the analyzer up to 12v.

 

Thanks

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Do you know where I can get the WR cable for the stand alone tool without buying the second unit ?

OR

Would you be willing to figure out the pin out for the SYM connector and share it with us ?

Hi MidlifeCrisisGuy

If you are still after the pin out for the SYM plug.

Holding the male plug on your bike with the clip on top going from left to right,

pin 1 goes to pin 5 on the D-sub plug

pin 2 goes to pin 9 on the D-sub plug

pin 3 goes to pin 8 on the D-sub plug

Hope this helps and make sense

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Hi MidlifeCrisisGuy

If you are still after the pin out for the SYM plug.

Holding the male plug on your bike with the clip on top going from left to right,

pin 1 goes to pin 5 on the D-sub plug

pin 2 goes to pin 9 on the D-sub plug

pin 3 goes to pin 8 on the D-sub plug

Hope this helps and make sense

Awesome. Thanks !

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Just got my FI diagnostic controller (that was fast). Bump up C1 to 15, You can smell the difference. Boy can you feel the difference. The snap off idle is huge. Warm startup just hit the button and she lights. Idle is set at 1950 rpm's. Worked out Great ,Thanks to all that helped out.

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If you live anywhere near Santa Clarita I can hook you up? Meaning you can stop by and we can adjust it. I'm thinking a bump of 15 is like going two up on the pilot. You can take it for a ride and see if we need to bump it up or down by 5 or so.

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One thought is if you already have a GYTR programmer is to cut the plug off of it and reattach a new generic three pin plug. Do the same on the FI diagnostic tool. Install the female of that generic three pin plug to the other end of the plug you cut off the GYTR programmer and use it as an adapter for both.

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If you live anywhere near Santa Clarita I can hook you up? Meaning you can stop by and we can adjust it. I'm thinking a bump of 15 is like going two up on the pilot. You can take it for a ride and see if we need to bump it up or down by 5 or so.

 

I'm in Redondo Beach...I frequently ride Rohwer and Gorman. Out of town for a month but when I return I'd love to take you up on your offer. Maybe go for a ride after.

 

Thanks!

Edited by JDLowrance

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Here is the photos of using my charge plug to power the FI unit. I also have a wall wart to power it off AC if the battery was dead.

 

 

10485301174_39f702925f_c.jpg

 

10485289765_6d44abd920_c.jpg

 

10485470623_e4ece25426_c.jpg

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I had some time to play with it some more. Got her hot shut her down started first hit each time.  Grabbed the front brake till it stalled, lit right back up each time. One time I stalled the starter would not turn her over. It acted like it was stuck at top dead center. I had to kick her just a half kick hit the button and she started right up. It started a few more time perfect before I put her away. I just don't get the part were the starter was stuck. I can't believe that the GYTR comp idle is so lean. They should include this setting in the GYTR programer. The dealers don't even know what to do. This thread should be Pinned.

Edited by vlxjim
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I had some time to play with it some more. Got her hot shut her down started first hit each time.  Grabbed the front brake till it stalled, lit right back up each time. One time I stalled the starter would not turn her over. It acted like it was stuck at top dead center. I had to kick her just a half kick hit the button and she started right up. It started a few more time perfect before I put her away. I just don't get the part were the starter was stuck. I can't believe that the GYTR comp idle is so lean. They should include this setting in the GYTR programer. The dealers don't even know what to do. This thread should be Pinned.

 

I get that quit often.  When I stop cranking, it appears to be stopped at top dead center and the starter isn't strong enough to push past it.

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I get that quit often.  When I stop cranking, it appears to be stopped at top dead center and the starter isn't strong enough to push past it.

x2

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I get that quit often. When I stop cranking, it appears to be stopped at top dead center and the starter isn't strong enough to push past it.

I have the same thing happen.

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Also make sure that the nut for the stater cable is tight. Mine was not tight. Not sure if it will make a difference or not. I had and have other Yamaha that were not tight and it did help out.

Edited by vlxjim

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So this tuner is just for the FI, of is it the GYTR programer for the ECU.

I just got a 12' and I am in the process of getting parts together.

 

Also,how often will someone use the programer?

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The GYTR programer is to load fuel and timing maps into the ECU. It will also show you RPM's, temps and a few more things. But it will not allow you to set the idle fuel amount. That what the FI diagnostic tool is used for. It will set the CO values (idle fuel amount) and show diagnostics codes. Most of the dealers do not have the ability to hook up the F I diagnostic tool to the WR or YZ's. This is where this thread comes in. For like $88 you can own the F I diagnostic tool and make the adjustments yourself. It's definitely worth the money for the performance you get. If you were to take a carbureted bike to the dealer they would charge more than this just to change out the jets on your bike. The great thing is you do not have to remove the throttlebody to do any of this work just plug-in make the adjustments and you're good to go, and you wont even get your hands dirty.

Edited by vlxjim
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I had a hard time starting mine after a somewhat recent valve adjustment that included a 165 shim on an intake valve. We hook the tuner to it at the shop and discovered I had 174 hours on it. Probably time for new valves.

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