W85W58

2012 WR450 Starting woes

509 posts in this topic

A I have two dealers.....one is so damn retarded that they are claiming they have a different tool even though it's the same one in every image I've seen....

The other claims that as a dealer they are not legally allowed to change this setting as it affects the emissions on a vehicle which I could setup to ride on road.

Looks like I'm buying one.....shit

Even though you will only adjust the CO once or twice, the fault code side of the tool is handy to have, especially if you have dealers like the ones you mentioned.

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I'm curious as to how you could set up a WR to be ridden on the road in California.   That's a lame excuse, since it's not a plateable bike, anyway. 

 

It does affect the Green Sticker status, but if you have the race ECU, that's down the tubes already anyway.

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Is anyone willing to loan theirs with a security deposit? I would pay $20 for using it. I have many ebay transactions as well as 70 or 80 transactions on rcgroups.com.

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honestly i would do the same.....i have 500+ positive feedbacks on ebay and will even give you the $150 and then you refund whats fair after i return the tool.

 

such a pain

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Have any of the 2012 owners moved on to the 2014 model?  Is the starting issue fixed?

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My 2014 sometimes has trouble with warm starts. I will be getting the CO tool to change it myself. I did not own a 2012.

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My 2014 sometimes has trouble with warm starts. I will be getting the CO tool to change it myself. I did not own a 2012.

 

 

The CO tool did not help my starting at all, in fact, increasing the CO made my starting worse.

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The CO tool did not help my starting at all, in fact, increasing the CO made my starting worse.

That's odd.  Reset mine to 10 and it was drastic improvement.  What is really needed is a sniffer to check the CO level before and after adjusting.

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What is really needed is a sniffer to check the CO level before and after adjusting.

 

True

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Have any of the 2012 owners moved on to the 2014 model? Is the starting issue fixed?

I have the 14 and once I get her hott she will not at all fire with the button. I have to kick it. I just came across this thread today and Im going to call b&b cycles tomorrow to see if they can put my CO to 15 as suggested by others here. I'll post up results. Btw. My 14 has 67 hard earned hours.

Edited by Jonesy11

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I have the 14 and once I get her hott she will not at all fire with the button. I have to kick it. I just came across this thread today and Im going to call b&b cycles tomorrow to see if they can put my CO to 15 as suggested by others here. I'll post up results. Btw. My 14 has 67 hard earned hours.

 

15 is too high, and I believe that much should be considered a "race" setting, intended for racing conditions. That is, if you're heading to a race, then set it higher. if not, then lower is better.

 

7-9 should be a good setting for a cycle, for non-race conditions.

Edited by mebgardner

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Really stupid idea: Do you have ALL of the stock hardware? Can you restore the bike to 100% stock condition as it rolled off the floor?

Question: Will this problem be the same if the bike is in stock shape?

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Can you easily put the bike back to bone-stock just like it rolled off the floor?

Would the problem go away?

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15 is too high, and I believe that much should be considered a "race" setting, intended for racing conditions. That is, if you're heading to a race, then set it higher. if not, then lower is better.

 

7-9 should be a good setting for a cycle, for non-race conditions.

No way, a CO of 15 is not to high. The sniffer at 20 is right there but its a little to fat to me. I don't race and run 15 as do many that have PM'ed me about my vlxjim map and CO 15 setting. Everyone that has used this setting that I know of is likes at the results.

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And don't forget the the bottom left setting in your fuel map does crossover into the Idle at 2000 RPM. I run about 1950 RPM BTW. 

 

       2K       3.5K         5k      and so on

        -           -               -

     -    -      -      -       -      -

  -          -             -               -

-      -      -      -      -                 -

Edited by vlxjim

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No way, a CO of 15 is not to high. The sniffer at 20 is right there but its a little to fat to me. I don't race and run 15 as do many that have PM'ed me about my vlxjim map and CO 15 setting. Everyone that has used this setting that I know of is likes at the results.

 

OK, you've got my attention.  So, when the sniffer is attached, and you have 20 dialled in for the CO setting in the FI system, what does the sniffer indicate for the CO % reading?  What does it read when you have 15 dialled in? (I'm hoping it's linear).

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Really stupid idea: Do you have ALL of the stock hardware? Can you restore the bike to 100% stock condition as it rolled off the floor?

Question: Will this problem be the same if the bike is in stock shape?

I can return it to stock but then it will overheat and backfire all the time. I talked to my local Yamaha dealer and as stated here the head mechanic agreed plus 15 and I am starting to race D37 not to mention every time this poor bike gets ridden its a race simulation with the group I ride with.

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20 was to fat it was around 5.3 % or so. At 15 we were 3.7 with a 3 in the lower left bottom of the map.

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Really stupid idea: Do you have ALL of the stock hardware? Can you restore the bike to 100% stock condition as it rolled off the floor?

Question: Will this problem be the same if the bike is in stock shape?

 

I still have my stock muffler, ECU and snorkel. Could all be put back to stock easy enough. I would never put the throttle stop back in though.

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