W85W58

2012 WR450 Starting woes

506 posts in this topic

These are supposed to idle at like 2000 rpms, right?  My vapor tach says mine idles at 1300 something.  I can turn the knob in and make it slower but when I turn it the other way it seems like it stops around 1300 rpms.  Maybe I have the vapor set up wrong.  Do you guys have this problem?  Maybe enrichening it would speed up the idle.  Edit: I changed the pulse per rev from 1 to .5 and rpms are in spec.

Edited by funt

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If you have a GYTR power programer you can plug it in and read the RPM off the ECU in real time. It should adjust right around 1600-2400 rpm's. And adding more fuel did not change my rpm setting.

Edited by vlxjim

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Well, I ordered one up, so I hope I got the right one.... Mine says its for the SYM motorcycles and looks like it has the correct cable, but I noticed it says "ED88" above the display instead of "VD001" like the ones posted previously on here.... other than that it looks identical.

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Well, I ordered one up, so I hope I got the right one.... Mine says its for the SYM motorcycles and looks like it has the correct cable, but I noticed it says "ED88" above the display instead of "VD001" like the ones posted previously on here.... other than that it looks identical.

Don't worry, the one I ordered was a ED88 in the photo but the one I received had VD001 printed on it.

Edited by boston460

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I get that quit often.  When I stop cranking, it appears to be stopped at top dead center and the starter isn't strong enough to push past it.

x2

I have the same thing happen.

I dare you guys to try not using the starter for a day. After you get used to kicking, you won't even miss it.

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I dare you guys to try not using the starter for a day. After you get used to kicking, you won't even miss it.

 

 

Yes I will. I kicked for years and love having the button!

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I dare you guys to try not using the starter for a day. After you get used to kicking, you won't even miss it.

As good as mine starts I would miss it. But the type of riding I do is more off roading fun. My WR is overkill but I like overkill. I don't ride close to its limits.

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I had a hard time starting mine after a somewhat recent valve adjustment that included a 165 shim on an intake valve. We hook the tuner to it at the shop and discovered I had 174 hours on it. Probably time for new valves.

 

No way should you need new valves after only 174 hrs unless you are running no air filter or for some reason are sucking in a lot of dirt.

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I dare you guys to try not using the starter for a day. After you get used to kicking, you won't even miss it.

 

I ride a YZ450F too that starts in 1-3 kicks and I don't think I would buy another bike if it didn't have electric start. 

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After you used your new fi diagnostic tool and adjusted the co, did you recheck your fi map using the gytr tool? I was woundering if maybe the fid tool is setting the base map and the gytr is and over lay "tweek".

Is there any other co settings you can access?

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I ordered one of the SYM diagnostic tools based on the reports in this thread.  I hooked mine up and powered it off of the WR's battery.  When the diagnostic tool comes alive, it has two options on the screen: Language and Diagnostics.  When I select diagnostics, the screen indicates "connecting" but nothing happens; it just returns to the Language/Diagnostics screen.  Am I missing something here?

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I ordered one of the SYM diagnostic tools based on the reports in this thread. I hooked mine up and powered it off of the WR's battery. When the diagnostic tool comes alive, it has two options on the screen: Language and Diagnostics. When I select diagnostics, the screen indicates "connecting" but nothing happens; it just returns to the Language/Diagnostics screen. Am I missing something here?

Strange, when I power mine up it has DTC and below that Diagnostic.

Try this, with the bike turned off plug the diagnostic tool in, select diagnostic with the M button and whilst it's trying to connect turn the ignition button on but don't start the bike. (This is how it requires you to access the different parameters) Hope this helps

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Yea you need to power up the bike and then pick diagnostic. At some point it will tell you to to turn the bike off.

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It should tell you on the screen to power on or off. Is it plugged in right?

Edited by vlxjim

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When you turn off the bike does the unit stay on? It should if its powered off the battery right.

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It is plugged in correctly.  The battery powers the unit independently of the ECU lead.  The only thing on the screen is "Language" (UP) and "Diagnostics" (DOWN).  Pressing the "down" button makes the unit attempt to connect "Connecting", and then it returns to the original screen after maybe 10 seconds.  It never connects.

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It is plugged in correctly.  The battery powers the unit independently of the ECU lead.  The only thing on the screen is "Language" (UP) and "Diagnostics" (DOWN).  Pressing the "down" button makes the unit attempt to connect "Connecting", and then it returns to the original screen after maybe 10 seconds.  It never connects.

 

Do you have the aftermarket ECU?  I'm not sure it's needed, but I believe the stock ECU is locked for all aspects of programming.

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Do you have the aftermarket ECU?  I'm not sure it's needed, but I believe the stock ECU is locked for all aspects of programming.

Competition ECU was installed as soon as I took delivery of the bike.

 

 I split the case of the EFI programmer at lunchtime.  It is really poorly made (kinda what you expect for little $$) but the circuit boards appear to be OK.  I wonder if the unit I received doesn't have the right program in it.  Tonight, I plan to check the connectors to make sure the wires are making contact.

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