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ecookman

Wr450f Stiff clutch

9 posts in this topic

So after a long day of riding and fixing up my new 2006 wr450 I've decided that the clutch is still freaking hard to pull. [left hand is sore] I just finished putting the clutch wire/lever assembly back on the bike after stripping old grease and adding new grease to all of the moving parts and the cable. Still very stiff, Is it possible that the previous owner super over torqued the clutch springs and that's why its like trying to lift a stack of bricks? Or are 450's all like this? [debating getting a ez pull clutch system]. My TTR 225's clutch is very light as in 1 finger pull versus whole hand...so just wondering if something may be wrong with the new beast, it engages and disengages just fine, but you have to lift a stack of bricks to do so :thumbsup:

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It seems that something isn't right. I had a 04 YZ 450 and have test driven several WR's in the past few months.and they have all had what I would call a light clutch lever. The only ?? I have is how long has it been since you had a clutch to work out that hand and forearm? I know that if I went several months riding only my YZ and my daughters TTR then my HD's clutch would let me know how much power you can lose in a short period of time at my age.

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Clutch springs don't have an adjustable setting like a suspension spring does so that's not it. Unless like was mentioned heavier springs were installed.

I'd start at the beginning with the lever: make sure it's not a shorty aftermarket one and that it's greased and the pivot bolt is straight, not worn and the lever travels fine. New lever and perch isn't too expensive either.

Then order a new OEM cable making sure its 100% routed correctly. I've had mixed results with aftermarket cables in my experience and also ran into PO's that route cables wrong. Pull the cable off the bike and move it back and forth. ANY hesitation or hang up is bad.

Then start looking at the clutch system if either of those areas don't help. Look at plates, basket, springs actuating arm, etc. to see if anything is out. New clutch pack and springs thinking $150 or less if it's suspect at all. The actuating arm can wear as well; manual should have all instructions for checking this stuff.

Remember, a TTR is 20hp, a WR is like 50. LOTS of difference in clutch needs between the two and it will be stiffer to pull. But it should be manageable.

Mike

Edited by miweber929

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So after a long day of riding and fixing up my new 2006 wr450 I've decided that the clutch is still freaking hard to pull. [left hand is sore] I just finished putting the clutch wire/lever assembly back on the bike after stripping old grease and adding new grease to all of the moving parts and the cable. Still very stiff, Is it possible that the previous owner super over torqued the clutch springs and that's why its like trying to lift a stack of bricks? Or are 450's all like this? [debating getting a ez pull clutch system]. My TTR 225's clutch is very light as in 1 finger pull versus whole hand...so just wondering if something may be wrong with the new beast, it engages and disengages just fine, but you have to lift a stack of bricks to do so :thumbsup:

You can't over-torque the clutch springs.

They may be non-stock springs.

The Clutch lifter arm could be installed wrong or worn out, or the Clutch lifter rod could be binding or bent.

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Maybe he installed a set of aftermarket clutch springs?

I meant STIFFER aftermarket clutch springs. Clutch springs are not adjustable, Ya think?

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I have the same problem. Really hard to pull in. My stepdads (drz-400) u can do with one finger. Never had a bike this stiff

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Get a new perch, lever, and cable before anything. Those are cheap and easy. As was mentioned make sure the cable is routed correctly. Then check back. Not much there to go wrong and the pull shouldn't be much different than other similar bikes.

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The Clutch lifter arm could be installed wrong or worn out, or the Clutch lifter rod could be binding or bent.

I vote for the clutch arm or worn clutch plates, or the ball bearing at the end of the clutch pushrod is missing. I'm not sure if all WR years have the bearing, but if it's missing then the clutch pushrod is effectively shorter, so the clutch arm has to turn more to push the rod far enough, and it loses mechanical advantage. This happened on my 99 400. I didn't know there was a ball bearing and it rolled out while I was working on the clutch. Took a while to figure it out. Look at the lever arm where the cable attaches, and see if it seems like it's rotated, or if the clutch cable slack adjusters are maxxed out.

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