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Garry_on_a_426

Tight front sproket on an 01 WR 426

20 posts in this topic

Well, I bought the bike used, and have been happy with it, but thought I should swap out the chain and sprokets.

I am having a hell of a time trying ro remove the front sprocket. What is the trick? Is it reverse thread? do I put something inside of the little hole to keep it from turning?

I do not watch to wedge a prybar against the case to keep it from turning for fear I would crack it.

Any wisdom oh wise fellow TTers? :)

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I use middle size hammer to hit the wrenche while the rear tire is on the ground. It works great!

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I am not a Yamaha guy,but on other bikes I have wedged a prybar through rear sprocket and over swingarm to hold engine from turning,be carefull so prybar is not in spockes.. :)

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I use middle size hammer to hit the wrenche while the rear tire is on the ground. It works great!

Good idea, but I took the chain off, I guess I could put the old chain back on to do this.

Are there 2 bolts or just one 'funky' one that is 2 different sizes?

I put a 27mm wrench over the 'outer' one, but I can't tell if it is is a wierd nut or, 2 nuts.

<hehe 2 nuts, my wife likes that>

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Its one nut with two differnt sizes :) Then the fold over washer. I used a breaker bar and it came right off. Good luck

Kevin

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Its one nut with two differnt sizes :) Then the fold over washer. I used a breaker bar and it came right off. Good luck

Kevin

Thanks, I am going to put the chain back on. From looking at it <after way too many beers> it should not be reverse thread.....

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For your info,

It is not reverse thread, with the old chain on the bike jam the rear wheel and use an extension for leverage on the sprocket nut.

When reinstalling it, apply proper torque to the nut, and change the lock washer. Apply lub on the spline before reassembly.

You should be all set.

Good luck :)

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For your info,

It is not reverse thread, with the old chain on the bike jam the rear wheel and use an extension for leverage on the sprocket nut.

When reinstalling it, apply proper torque to the nut, and change the lock washer. Apply lub on the spline before reassembly.

You should be all set.

Good luck :)

Do you know what it should be torqued to?

There is some rust arount the nut so I sprayed some WD40 on it, and am letting it sit for a day. I am going to make another attempt tonight.

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From the shop manual the Tightening torque of :

The hut of the front drive sprocket is : 75 NM or 7.5 m/Kg or 54 ft/lb.

The rear driven sprocket nuts (6) is : 42 Nm or 4.3 m/kg or 30 ft/lb.

May be if you have access to an impact driver you could take it off. If you decide to heat it, remember that there is an inner oil seal in the crankcase that may not like the heat.

Good luck

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You did bend the lock washer down flat right?

an air impact gun or an impact driver you hit with a hammer is the way to go. trying to put leverage and torque on a rotating nut is hard as most of the torque you apply is sucked up by the rotating components and drive system. An inertial impact device is needed. It like trying to take the nut off the drive pully of an alternator, you can have the belts on, wedge and jam the rotor and pull it with a breaker bar untill it slips. you put your impact gun on it and hold it with your hand and it pops right off. If you dont have a gun or driver, put your heavist adjustable wrench on it and hit the wrench with the heviest hammer you can swing with one hand :) , the inertia should pop er loose.

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Yep!,if you can find someone to sit on the bike and push the rear brake on to see if that will stop the final drive from turning then great!,other than that you will have to jam the rear sprocket with a bar!,as long as you make sure you lock the rear wheel solid you can put plenty strain on the nut(had to bounce on the end of a bit scaffold tube used as an extension bar over the end of a heavy duty socket set to get the front sprocket of my gsxr 1100 once!),just bear in mind that the nut is there to stop the sprocket flying out and off the end of the shaft and does not need to be that tight,as long as you make sure the locking plate is folded firmly to 2 flats of the nut it will be fine(i put them on with a socket and ratchet hand tight)mark a line through the shaft and nut when done with a white metal marker pen and you can tell by looking in if the nut has turned :)

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If you have not succeeded already, I was thinking that you can wrap a "whip wrench" around the counter sprocket.

This wrench is made with a piece of chain of the appropriate size that you wrap around the sprocket, and the other end is fixed about a quarter from the tip of a flat bar. Flat bar could be 12 in. long. Long enough to give you enough leverage so you will be able to unthread that holy nut :D

A partner would be handy for that " :) whip"

Good luck and tell us if you have succeeded in your ordeal.

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Yep!,if you can find someone to sit on the bike and push the rear brake on to see if that will stop the final drive from turning then great!,other than that you will have to jam the rear sprocket with a bar!,as long as you make sure you lock the rear wheel solid you can put plenty strain on the nut(had to bounce on the end of a bit scaffold tube used as an extension bar over the end of a heavy duty socket set to get the front sprocket of my gsxr 1100 once!),just bear in mind that the nut is there to stop the sprocket flying out and off the end of the shaft and does not need to be that tight,as long as you make sure the locking plate is folded firmly to 2 flats of the nut it will be fine(i put them on with a socket and ratchet hand tight)mark a line through the shaft and nut when done with a white metal marker pen and you can tell by looking in if the nut has turned :)

That is what I did, I put the old chain back on, and stuffed a bar into the sprocket, put an 8' pip on the end of my socket wrench and POP. I didn't even bend my new sproket. Next time I will change the front one first!

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Gary

Impact gun will spin it right off....otherwise it's like a monkey f&*%ing a football.

Good luck

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Congratulation :D

Don't forget to lub the spline and to apply the proper torque.

And I used a new lock washer. the only 'problem' I have now is I changed the ratio to 14/51, and I can't keep the front tire on the ground, even in 3rd.... yiiiipppiiiieeee :)

I allways thought that 80mph was too high of a top end anyway.

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Something is terribly wrong with your bike. :D

I must warn you that I run the stock gearing 14/50 and whellies in 4th are very common, and 5th gear wheellies are possible with little help. :D :D :D :D

Glad to hear everything worked out :)

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Something is terribly wrong with your bike. :D

I must warn you that I run the stock gearing 14/50 and whellies in 4th are very common, and 5th gear wheellies are possible with little help. :D :D :D :D

Glad to hear everything worked out :)

I figured out what is wrong with the bike, it is the rider <doh>

I went for my first DS ride yesterday, and oh boy, yea I had the front end off the ground a few times in 4th gear at 50mph. :D

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Hi Garry, I have a question for you about :

ACME suspension setup for my 200# fat ass

My weight is near 230 lbs with all the riding gear , or around 220 without, (but I tought that you didn't want to know that :)).

I'm thinking about upgrading my suspension. I know that I should at least change the springs. So what is the spring rate you are using and what type of riding do you do ?

I don't ride as often as I would like on trails, so most of the time I ride some laps around an mx track. I'm not very agressive, as a matter of fact my best years are probably behind me :D.

But I still think a better suspension is what I need. My last landing convinced me of that. I sprained both of my ankles as a result of bad feet position on the peg coming off a not too big of a jump and landing flat. I bottomed at both ends and got crutches for a few days :D.

So if you could forward me some info about your suspension, it will be appreciated

Thanks

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I bought the bike used with the suspension already on it. Yamaha of North County (San Diego) set it up for him. I am really happy with it. Rode for 150miles (100+ in the dirt) yesterday, mainly fire roads. I was fast smooth and didn't bottom out once.

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