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mfoti

what is the procedure to start a 2011 YZ 450F?

21 posts in this topic

I just bought a new 2011 450F and the dealer didn't give me an owners manual. I guess i shouldn't be surprised. Meanwhile, i was wondering what the proper procedure for starting this bike hot and cold? Any help is appreciated.

Also, anyone know where i can get a 2011 manual?

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First of all pull out the little black hot start/air/idle screw knob on the left side of the bike just below the fuel tank and behind the left radiator. It pulls out about 1/4 to 1/2 an inch. Push down on the kick start until theres some resistance and then giver a good boot. Mine never starts on the first kick but two or three should do it. It will almost never start if you dont pull out the black knob. Push it back in after 30 seconds or so. Use that knob to adjust your idle speed. If your bike is warm you will have to use the knob to start it again. Good luck, I'm sure someone else will explain it better than I did though. My bike came with a manual.

Edited by glenn77

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Thanks guys. This is my first kick start since my 1980 GT80 i grew up on ...haha.. I asked the dealer to show me how to start it and they just said kick it. I just assumed i could look at the manual and figure it out myself since they had no other advice. When i got home i realized they didn't give me a manual.

Thanks for the manual link. I just called the dealer and it didn't sound like i was going to get one any time soon.

Edited by mfoti

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The manual is part of what you bought if you bought it new. You should also have been given a small package of tools (usually a plug wrench and spoke wrench at least). The dealer isn't entitled to keep it from you. If he does, complain directly to Yamaha.

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Until you pry the manual from your dealers hands go to the Yamaha site, you can download the complete manual there for free ( Manual is 80 bucks new ).

As far as starting procedure; I just kick mine it starts no probs first or second kick everytime.

Edited by Englishman

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I think the manual states that the black knob is used in cold temps, I think around freezing but not 100% since I dont have it on me. I just bring mine to tdc and kick 2 or 3 times.

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starting procedure is as mentioned

along with the manual,...spoke wrench, plug wrench, fuel tank holding cable and fuel line plugs (for use when fuel tank is removed)

Edited by stroker101

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Above coments are bang on, I'll just add one bit of info. It's a batteryless EFI system so it usually takes a few revolutions of the crank to charge the eletrics in the EFI system. I usually just roll it over 2-3 kicks when cold to charge the system up then give it a solid kick as most have mentioned. Will fire right up. When hot / warm I skip the "charging" kicks and just start with a solid kick. It's a very easy bike to start IMO.

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Thanks so much. It all makes sense now why it doesn't start on the first kick but by 2nd or 3rd no problem. The dealer said they don't have a manual and they would have to order one. They were supposed to email me yesterday and verify they either shipped it or ordered it but they didn't. Unfortunately they are 2 hours away and they appear to be blowing me off. I noticed others have said they didn't get a manual with their new bike. Does yamaha have a complaint section on their website? At least i have the PDF now. Thanks.

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When it's cold, pull the knob and kick smoothly a few times to charge the EFI. From there kick till you feel resistance, stop, then kick smoothly from top to bottom. Mine usually starts after a few kicks.

When hot, find neutral, kick smoothly from top to bottom. If it doesn't start in one kick, hold the throttle wide open and kick 4-7 times quick and smoothly. This clears it out. Then, after you feel resistance kick once, strong but smooth top to bottom. I hold mine for a second at the very bottom, and never use throttle, ever. It starts every time this way.

I have cracked the throttle and had the bike start faster before, but then sometimes it seems to flood and not start without clearing it out... So, I stick with the no throttle.

If you want to start in gear you need to have killed it in gear, clutch in and follow the same procedure. If you let out the clutch and roll the bike, stall it, crash it, etc. you usually need to find neutral and follow the procedure.

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The manual is part of what you bought if you bought it new. You should also have been given a small package of tools (usually a plug wrench and spoke wrench at least). The dealer isn't entitled to keep it from you. If he does, complain directly to Yamaha.

you also need the wire that holds the seat up while you change the air filer

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Hey guys, a few days ago I posted about how I start my 2011 Yz450f, well up here the snow has finally melted enough to ride and I've found that with the changes I've made to my bike over the winter it starts much easier. I put a full Yoshimura Rs4 system on it and put the one piece Cycra shrouds on with some holes drilled in the top. I have also changed to the map that is recommended for traction in slippery conditions and hard pack. In stock form it was tough to start when hot and in gear but now i don't need the cold start knob or neutral to fire it up. Just thought I'd share that with anyone that has trouble starting theirs.

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you also need the wire that holds the seat up while you change the air filer

wrong,...the cable does not hold the seat up. it holds the fuel tank up and out of the way when accessing the air filter.

Edited by stroker101

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I thought these bikes had a "starting" map that didn't change no matter what you loaded in on the Power Tuner? Should different maps have any affect on starting? I thought it was just break in time.

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Maybe it's not the map that made the difference for me then, just the other mods.

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