KX65 oil change on rear shock ?

[metalmachinery]

hello does anybody have a link or a "how to post" on changing the rear shock oil?

I have the spring off and oil out, need tip on how to refill??

[gsa102]

I consider that to be a job for a suspension shop. Almost all rear shocks are pressurized with nitrogen to keep the oil from foaming, and most people don't have the tools to recharge it. The manual may tell you how, but you will still need the tools. You are lucky you didn't get a face full of oil.

Edited April 9, 2012 by gsa102

[shortyr6]

i second sending it to a suspension shop. they can tear it down and refit it for you.

if you have any changes in rider weight or valving, you mind as well do it while the shock is open.

[metalmachinery]

yes I did let the gas out before dissassembling. Just looking to change the oil, should'nt need special tools or bike shop to change kx65 shock oil.

Please chime in if you done this.. thanks in advance. BTW ... local bike shop quoted $175 for oil seal service and nitrogen recharge, ouch!

I may try sucking the oil back into chamber by submersing the oil fill hole and pulling shaft out by hand and cap it.

$6 for nitrogen and $10 for 7wt oil..

[DerHossMeister]

You need to know how much oil and what weight to use.

You need to know how many psi of nitrogen to fill it with.

You may need to replace one or more seals while it's apart.

You may need to replace your bumpstop.

You may have nicks in the shaft, which could cause leaking.

You could have a bent shaft.

You certainly want to flush out the inside components and valve stacks to ensure that any and all crud is removed.

My point is, there are alot of variables that should be adressed when servicing your suspension and it often is best performed by a trained professional. Pro-Circuit, which is in Cali, charges $85 to service a shock and $15 for fluids....notwithstanding any repairs that may need to be performed.

[gruberyz]

A fluid change on a remote resevoir shock is pretty easy and straight forward. Usually just requiring compressing the bladder cap and removing a snap ring. Refilling the shock is open for debate as to charge it with nitrogen or compressed air. if I have nitrogen avaIable use it. If not I use compressed air. There are theoretical differences although in 30 years of racing I have never experinced a difference.

http://idriders.com/...k%20service.pdf

Edited April 9, 2012 by gruberyz

[metalmachinery]

You need to know how much oil and what weight to use. You need to know how many psi of nitrogen to fill it with. You may need to replace one or more seals while it's apart. You may need to replace your bumpstop. You may have nicks in the shaft, which could cause leaking. You could have a bent shaft. You certainly want to flush out the inside components and valve stacks to ensure that any and all crud is removed. My point is, there are alot of variables that should be adressed when servicing your suspension and it often is best performed by a trained professional. Pro-Circuit, which is in Cali, charges $85 to service a shock and $15 for fluids....notwithstanding any repairs that may need to be performed.

Thanks for all the insight, I have specs, oil weight, psi etc. Just want to know the procedure of putting oil back in shock bladder and bleeding air out.. I got the rest covered.

BTW.. The kx65 shock resevoir does not have a remote hi/lo speed valve to access and refill like a big bike shock does. Hence my quest for a little help ! thanks

Edited April 9, 2012 by metalmachinery

[metalmachinery]

thanks Gruberyz... you gave me the lead I needed. Removed collar, compressed the bladder removed snap ring refilled front bladder then shock body and put back together with 145psi nitrogren and shock has nice rebound again. took 10minutes and under 20bucks. Very surprised I couldnt find a thread anywhere on how to do this.. kx65 shock oil is cooked in 10-15hours.

[im_jeremy5]

What I did was fill the reservoir and shock body with oil, install the bladder with the valve core removed and damping rod/seal head and snap rings. Seat both against the snap rings. Then reposition the shock so the allen/bleeder bolt is the highest point on the shock and Remove the bleeder bolt/allen bolt. Install the valve core and Slowly inflate the bladder to like 30 PSI of compressed air just so it takes shape (warning: this will push/spray oil out of the bleeder hole).  then top the shock off with a syringe through the bleeder hole then close it up. Then I worked the shock to get the air bubbles out of the damper. Then I opened the bleeder bolt and keeping the shock within like 10 degrees of upright  tipped it slightly side to side ( i.e. \  |  /   ) to work air bubbles to the bleeder hole, then carefully slightly pushed damper rod up to push the air bubbles out. Then slowly as I slightly pulled the damper down I injected oil into it with a syringe. I repeated this until No more air bubbles would surface and It would still be full when I opened the bleeder. I then released the air from the bladder and filled it with nitrogen.    Probably not the professional way but it worked for me.