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grayracer513

Oil Change Procedure for '10-'12 Model YZ450's

14 posts in this topic

Those not familiar with the oil change procedure on a YZF frequently get it wrong. This is written as a reference for those who have just acquired an '10-'12 YZ450, but didn't get a manual with it.

If you don't have one already, start by downloading a manual here:

http://www.yamaha-mo...ice/manuals.jsp

Or Here:

http://www.yamahaown...ook.com.au/?r=0

You should also understand that the motorcycle has a dry sump oiling system, wherein the oil is stored in separate area, pumped from there to the lube points, then picked up and returned to the "tank". In the '10-'12 models, the "tank" is a reservoir built into the front of the crankcase assembly just in front of the actual crankshaft cavity. Thus, the sight glass is located on the left side top of the crankcase in front of the cylinder. The engine must have been run within 10 minutes prior to checking the level, or the oil may begin to drain back into the crankcases, and your reading will be inaccurate.

Read also:

http://www.thumperta...903#post5221903

Simplified oil change procedure:

  1. Start and run the engine for about one minute and shut down.
  2. Remove the filler cap to help the engine vent better.
  3. Remove the drain bolt from the right side, above the frame rail, below the water pump. This drains the "tank" section Replace the bolt.
  4. Remove the oil filter cover and replace the filter (or clean it if using stainless mesh. Do not reuse brass mesh filters) Replace the cover.
  5. Remove the drain bolt from the crankcase, located behind the right side frame rail on the bottom rear corner of the transmission, angled straight out toward the frame. Replace when it finishes draining.
  6. Refill the system at the fill port on the left crankcase cover. Refill with 1.0 liter if you changed the filter, or 1 quart (0.95L) if you didn't :bonk:
  7. Start the engine, run for at least one minute, shut down, wait 30 seconds and check your oil level with the bike level and upright.

Torque wrenches should not be necessary if you have a reasonable level of skill and common sense.

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I find that you can drain more oil out of the bike if you lean the bike to the right whan bith drain plugs are out. 2012 yz 450

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Is there a weep hole screw where I can drain just a little bit of oil out with having to remove my works skid plate. The plate or more of a pain than anything else. I recently got the bike and do not have the manual yet. Thanks in advance.

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James, there is a oil "weep" bolt. Referred to as a "check bolt" in the manual. 

 

If you find the oil level is above acceptable, remove the "check" bolt and allow the oil to flow out.

 

See this, or your manual before attempting: 

YZ%20MAINT.jpg

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Not necessarily.

That messes with my head..lohlI get nervous when I can't see that my bike has oil specially when that's supposed to tell my I have enough..I've been thinking my bike is consuming oil

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Hmm, I just changed my oil again following the exact steps of the manual and it never showed up in the sight glass at all. What the heck???

I've changed the oil a million times over the last two years and its just now acting funny. I don't get it.

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Hmm, I just changed my oil again following the exact steps of the manual and it never showed up in the sight glass at all. What the heck???

I've changed the oil a million times over the last two years and its just now acting funny. I don't get it.

Did you start and run the engine for a minute after you added oil?

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Yes sir, that's just standard procedure. Mech wants to pull it apart and see if dirt/grime could be preventing it from being visible in the sight glass

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Does anybody have a tip for reinstalling the crankcase drain bolt? With it being right next to the frame rail it is a total PITA!!

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I usually just start it by hand and use the closed end of a wrench. Just careful not to strip it then you really got problems

Edited by Chansharp

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My shop area at home is crowded enough that it makes laying the bike on its left side (which would probably help) hard to do, so I usually just crawl under the thing while on a side stand and reach the plug up into place.  I'm working through a skid plate port when I do mine.  No tips, unfortunately, just practice in getting bolts and nuts started in ridiculous places for years and years and years and....

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My shop area at home is crowded enough that it makes laying the bike on its left side (which would probably help) hard to do, so I usually just crawl under the thing while on a side stand and reach the plug up into place.  I'm working through a skid plate port when I do mine.  No tips, unfortunately, just practice in getting bolts and nuts started in ridiculous places for years and years and years and....

I've placed an allen wrench on the bolt head from the side to kind of hold it in place while starting by hand and that helped a little bit but I guess it's just going to be one of those little things that is a hassle. Every time I do it I am cursing the engineers under my breath.

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