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WWalker

How do I PREVENT damage to oil filter drain bolt before oil change?

13 posts in this topic

I have been reading through the threads related to the oil filter drain bolt and the damage that can occur. I am new to the 426 club and am prepping to change the oil for the first time since I purchased the bike a few weeks ago. I am now fully aware of the problems with the oil passage allowing the shavings to cause damage to the threads.....but my question is how do I prevent that from happening before I start to work on the bike? Is there a specific way to drain the oil that will prevent the damage before removing any bolts? For all I know the previous owner could have done Grayracer's ball bearing mod....(wishful thinking).

Edited by WWalker

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try laying the bike on it's side(clutch side) then remove the bolts for the filter cover, then stand the bike upright to allow the remaining oil to drain.

then use a small diameter gun cleaaning brush to clean out the bolt hole prior to reinstalling the bolts.

Edited by stroker101

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try laying the bike on it's side(clutch side) then remove the bolts for the filter cover, then stand the bike upright to allow the remaining oil to drain.

then use a small diameter gun cleaning brush to clean out the bolt hole prior to reinstalling the bolts.

lay the over on a bike stand. allow the end of the handlebar to rest on the stand

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We followed somebody's advice and filled the drain hole with RTV. You don't need it. Look in the FAQ or on thumperfaq.

Edited by BBrown626

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We followed Grayracer's advice and filled the drain hole with RTV. You don't need it. Look in the FAQ or on thumperfaq.

I was gonna ask that. If I do not do the ball bearing mod can I just put blue RTV in the hole between oil changes? BTW, just picked up a stainless steel oil filter today. Gonna do an oil change tomorrow....the 1st one since I've purchased the bike. I did not see much in my searching about putting RTV in the hole....but I assume it's okay? Any tips?

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.... how do I prevent that from happening before I start to work on the bike? Is there a specific way to drain the oil that will prevent the damage before removing any bolts?

You can't. If the drain port hasn't been blocked off, debris will settle into it and lay on the threads. You just have to remove it. It's very unlikely that doing this one more time will do too much to degrade the threads, but of course, you have no idea what condition they're already in. Think of it as a journey of discovery :smirk:.

But my advice is not and has never been to use RTV to plug the port, and in fact I have repeatedly and emphatically recommended against it. There is no RTV that exists that will not eventually loose its adhesion and come loose under continuous exposure to oil like that. The ball is cheap, easy to do, and ready to use immediately after you install it, without the 24 hour wait for the sealer or epoxy to dry and cure.

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Sorry for the hijack but if i were to buy a timesert kit what length exactly should i order? Is M5x0.8 x12mm correct? This for an 05 but think they all may be the same

http://www.ebay.com/...=item43ab1eff29

No. The thread is M6x1.0. The 12mm length may be a bit long. Remember that it has to reach from the top/start of the thread far enough to extend beyond the cross hole, or oil pressure loss will result.

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You can't. If the drain port hasn't been blocked off, debris will settle into it and lay on the threads. You just have to remove it. It's very unlikely that doing this one more time will do too much to degrade the threads, but of course, you have no idea what condition they're already in. Think of it as a journey of discovery :bonk:.

But my advice is not and has never been to use RTV to plug the port, and in fact I have repeatedly and emphatically recommended against it. There is no RTV that exists that will not eventually loose its adhesion and come loose under continuous exposure to oil like that. The ball is cheap, easy to do, and ready to use immediately after you install it, without the 24 hour wait for the sealer or epoxy to dry and cure.

Yeah....a journey of discovery....right. :smirk: Thanks for the input. I just picked up a stainless steel filter and will get to work asap.

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You can't. If the drain port hasn't been blocked off, debris will settle into it and lay on the threads. You just have to remove it. It's very unlikely that doing this one more time will do too much to degrade the threads, but of course, you have no idea what condition they're already in. Think of it as a journey of discovery :smirk:.

But my advice is not and has never been to use RTV to plug the port, and in fact I have repeatedly and emphatically recommended against it. There is no RTV that exists that will not eventually loose its adhesion and come loose under continuous exposure to oil like that. The ball is cheap, easy to do, and ready to use immediately after you install it, without the 24 hour wait for the sealer or epoxy to dry and cure.

Sorry Gray, It may have been the guys in the 250 forum. We ran high temp RTV for all three years we had '07s and '08s. Cleaned the drain with solvent and filled the hole and let is sit overnight.

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Your link isn't functional, but 9.4mm should be long enough. After you install the insert, try to fill the drain hole with carb cleaner or solvent and see if it holds it. If it holds fluid, you're good. If it drains through, plug the hole with a ball as shown in the post on that mod.

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