Grey wire mod on a switch?

Is there any real benefit to putting an in line switch on the grey wire? If so is a handlebar mounted on/off switch best or would a recessed push button on/off switch hidden somewhere the bike be better? I just did all the free mods to my 09 450 and im thinking it's a little much power or maybe I'm just not used to it yet??? It's definitely not my '96 RM125!!

its a 450. they have power.

If you put it on a switch, you will still have to kill the bike and restart for the map to change. The CDI senses the bit for ground on start up and determines the map at that time, not constantly.

Yea I'm aware of having to shut it down but I ride with my 2 boys who are 12 and 13. So I was just thinking of toning it down a bit to ride with them. I've read around some folks putting a switch in series with the circuit and didn't know if there would be any real benefit to doing this. I'm about to re-jet and so I'll be taking the sub frame off once again... If I were going to install a switch, I'd like to do it at the same time and let this be the last time I half way disassemble the bike.

I bought my '06 WR used, and the previous owner had done exactly what your asking. He had a push/pull switch mounted beside the headlight shell. Easy enough to get too. The only time I've used it is down in Baja when you get questionable fuel sometimes, as it helps to lessen detonation if you get a bad batch of fuel. Maniac

I am gonna do it with a ktm mapping switch on the handlebars.

I put my switch in nthe airbox. I rarely use it and ebeing out of the way yet still accessible is terrific. I only use the WR setting in real wet woods riding to reduce wheel spin. Probably 98% of the time it is in the YZ setting. So quick access Vs. being in an out of the way protected spot makes more sense to me.

WRGeyWireSwitch.jpg

how much of a difference is there really between the two map settings and is it worth it to put it on a switch?

The throttle response is noticably sharper in the YZ setting. It does make a slight difference in low traction situations with the WR setting. But then again it depends some on the rider. I have friends who cannot tell at all, others who can tell from listening to the bike run.

I put the switch on and couldnt tell a difference. I reconnected the wire and couldnt tell. I reconnected the switch and no noticable difference. I made a little bracket that attaches to the front two bolts of my handlebar mount. I would even be willing to take it off and give it to you if you want. Message me a addy ill send it and you can repay shipping when ever. Ill even leave the switch on. Your bar mount problably work since i have an 05. I dont know if the rekluse maskes the difference.

I thought the switch idea was great when I first read about it, but I've reconsidered it and I'm actually going to remove my switch and leave it set to the YZ map (gray wire disconnected). I can't tell much difference between the ignition maps, but I'm running YZ timing. I kinda think that a YZ timed bike should run the YZ map, and a WR timed bike should run the WR map. It makes sense to me that you'd get the best performance when running an ignition map that was programmed to work with that particular cam timing. The slight difference I feel when I switch back to WR timing doesn't feel like a good running bike that is tuned to have smoother power, it just feels like poorly running, slightly out of tune YZ. I can appreciate smooth tractible power in slippery conditions, but that's not what I feel like I get, with the WR map and YZ timing, the bike just doesn't seem to run quite as good. Also even though my switch install is very clean, I like the idea of removing it and uncluttering my controlls too. My WR is older though (2001), so things might be different on the newer models.

Edit: I do think Maniac makes a good point about retarding the timing should you get a tank full of crap fuel. I hadn't considered that, I may keep the switch only for that reason and move the switch out of the way into the airbox like William, that's a clean install.

Edited by surferchris1

What characteristics does it needs?

12V, how much A?

A 1 amp, 250V switch is more than adequate. It is only a digital signal check, no real current flows. Any switch you find is plenty adequate. Look for a quality switch.

I put a switch on mine and defiantly noticed the difference between the 2 settings once I had it. I did not however notice it much when I originally just unhooked the grey wire.

I had added hotcam's though, and I think that made a big difference between the two mappings compared to not having the cams.

That being said, I never use the switch. I always leave it in "YZF" mode, mostly because I also added a big bore and went down 3 teeth on back sprocket. The bike is so much more user friendly and controllable now compared to before it's amazing. I can see the benefit of using the switch if your out with your kids though.

@William1... That's a clean install in the airbox! That's a great idea that I may consider doing for sure. It's out of sight, out of the way and functional. I live in the south with all that red clay and after a summer time afternoon shower it can get pretty slippery! If the WR map really helps with traction then for me this is a must. Thanks all for your input!! BraaP BraaP!!

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