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BLSBRKR65

XR650L No SPARK thread again!!!

21 posts in this topic

I just spent an hour reading other threads regarding this issue but i haven't found anything that i haven't tried yet. As the story goes, my bike was running fine the day before it quit, so i checked all the basics and come to find out i have no spark. The engine turns over fine but just wont fire. The ff: components have been replaced, tested and exchanged with a known running parts bike but still have a no spark issue.

[*]ALL FUSES TESTED

[*]PULSE GENERATOR TESTED

[*]F/R HARNESS DIODES TESTED

[*]CDI REPLACED 2X

[*]IGNITION COIL REPLACED 2x

[*]RUN/OFF SWITCH REPLACED

[*]SPARKPLUG/CAP REPLACED

[*]KICKSTAND SWITCH TESTED

[*]NEUTRAL SWITCH TESTED

After replacing each individual part, i checked for spark and still have the same no spark issue. I also bypassed the clutch safety wires with no effect on the matter. The only part i haven't replaced is the stator nor have i inspected the cam timing and valve lash. Could the stator or cam timing cause a no spark issue? What about the Ignition switch? Did i miss anything?

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How old is the bike? ... if it's fairly old (pre - 2000) or has a lot of miles on it, I'd definitely check the stator. You've pretty much ruled everything else out.

:bonk:

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stator could be it, not as bad as the older ones, but still a possible cause.

First I would check that you get a signal out of the switch, cheaper than a stator and also a possible problem, usually a stator will work cold and quit when hot, a bad switch CAN act the same way, but most often will always test bad.

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Stator does not control spark,,basically just charges the battery,there are no dedicated windings in the stator for ignition as there is in the XR600R and older bikes..if it wasn`t charging the battery would be low enough that the starter wouldn`t work...

Check the ground terminals under the seat,,take the bolt out,,clean the frame right down to bare steel at that point,,silicone grease everything and reassemble...

Just because the PG generator ohm`s out doesn`t mean it`s good...the only way to check these and be sure is with a labscope.......

Unplug both leads off the ign coil.........put a 12v test light across the 2 wires,,if the test light flashes when the engine is cranking then the coil is toast,,if it does not flash then no power is getting to the coil..

If this doesn`t help pm me.....i can help..

B

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I did check and cleaned out the ground under the seat. I have also replaced the ignition coil and cap with 2 known good ones. I'm thinking i may have a cut or pinched wire in the harness. If it jumped time, would it loose spark? The battery specs out to 12.8V and turns the engine fine. It just won't spark after replacing, cleaning, inspecting the various components above. :bonk:

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I did check and cleaned out the ground under the seat. I have also replaced the ignition coil and cap with 2 known good ones. I'm thinking i may have a cut or pinched wire in the harness. If it jumped time, would it loose spark? The battery specs out to 12.8V and turns the engine fine. It just won't spark after replacing, cleaning, inspecting the various components above. :bonk:

If it jumps time it will still fire the plug,,it`ll run like chit,if it all......but it`ll spark..

Did you actually replace the PG gen?????????????

Ground the two wires that go to the clutch switch......wire them to a good ground like under the seat,,Dave says this`ll bypass all the safeties..

The last one i saw that would not fire,,had broken the cam chain guide and it slid down shearing off the PG wires,,causing intermittent good ohm readings...

if you have a PG generator,plug it into the downtube connector,,do not remove the clutch cover.......ground the PG generator to something...now take a BFC (BIG FREEKIN CHISEL:smirk:) and wave the chisel back and forth really close to the PG where the trigger wheel would rotate by...if it fires you have a bad PG or something in the engine is assembled wrong or broken...

I`ve seen a fella here that put the trigger gear ,that wipes near the PG,,on backwards,,did you have that off???????

B

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do you know what year it was that the stator no longer provided power for spark? thats a good thing to know

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do you know what year it was that the stator no longer provided power for spark? thats a good thing to know

All the XR650L models 93-12 are .......they Have DC CDI`s...the XR600R and XL`s.....as well as the XR650R have AC current CDI`s....i know the XR600R and the XL`s had bingnition windings on the stator as well as lighting coils...

The stator is basically an alternator on the XRL..

B

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I removed the pulse gen from the engine and cleaned it then re-installed it correctly. It specs out fine at 517 ohms. Is it suppose to read out an AC voltage when you crank the motor? Mine doesn't give out any AC voltage when you spin the motor. I did ground the wires on the clutch safety switch with the same result. I have a complete wiring harness with stator and pulse gen coming in next weeks mail. I will replace the pulse gen first then go on from there. Wish me luck!

If it jumps time it will still fire the plug,,it`ll run like chit,if it all......but it`ll spark..

Did you actually replace the PG gen?????????????

Ground the two wires that go to the clutch switch......wire them to a good ground like under the seat,,Dave says this`ll bypass all the safeties..

The last one i saw that would not fire,,had broken the cam chain guide and it slid down shearing off the PG wires,,causing intermittent good ohm readings...

if you have a PG generator,plug it into the downtube connector,,do not remove the clutch cover.......ground the PG generator to something...now take a BFC (BIG FREEKIN CHISEL:smirk:) and wave the chisel back and forth really close to the PG where the trigger wheel would rotate by...if it fires you have a bad PG or something in the engine is assembled wrong or broken...

I`ve seen a fella here that put the trigger gear ,that wipes near the PG,,on backwards,,did you have that off???????

B

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I removed the pulse gen from the engine and cleaned it then re-installed it correctly. It specs out fine at 517 ohms. Is it suppose to read out an AC voltage when you crank the motor? Mine doesn't give out any AC voltage when you spin the motor. I did ground the wires on the clutch safety switch with the same result. I have a complete wiring harness with stator and pulse gen coming in next weeks mail. I will replace the pulse gen first then go on from there. Wish me luck!

You do have the reluctor on the crank facing the proper way,,right????????

It will not trigger the PG if on backwards,,just sayin:smirk:

Unfortunately,,,the only real way of testing the PG is with a scope,you need to see the pattern it produces..

An ohm test will only tell you when a part is bad,,,,if it`s an open cucuit it`s toast,believe it or not just because it ohms out within spec

that does not mean it`s good.......

Old electronic testing saying "an ohm test will tell you if a part is bad,,,,not that it`s good"

It can fail under load,,which a DVOM lacks ,,,it lacks the capability to place a curcuit under load..

B

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Just an idea- mine did the same thing a while back and it was the wire connection coming up the frame at the front of the bike where the exhuast is. It all looked good but while cranking the bike I coule jiggle the plug and it would hit and start. I replaced the plug and it was all good. If you think it is the key switch the plug for it is behind the head light. You can jump the connection there with a wire to by-pass the key switch. Found this after loosing my key. good luck.

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Just an update... I replaced the pulse generator from a running engine and it still has no spark!!! Next would be the stator but that has to wait till the morning. I also have a full wiring harness just in case. Am i wasting my time on the stator or should i just go ahead and replace the whole wiring harness to cut to the chase. As stated previously, i have replaced the CDI, coil/cap/plug, start switch, diode, neutral switch, kickstand switch at least twice. The battery is currently at 13V and cranks the motor fine. I havent inspected the cam timimg or valve lash yet but i don't think that's the issue since the bike was running fine beforehand. Any other ideas?

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If Brian reckons the Stator doesn't have anything to do with spark apart from charging the battery so you get spark from there there's not much point replacing it..Someone's suggested the key switch,,You've done practically everything else so figure out how to hot wire it and bypass the ignition switch.,Possibly just a case of disconnecting a few wires from it,,Suppose the key switch is all hooked up in tandem with the kill switch,,track wires or find someone who knows how to bypass it or borrow another from a mates bike and hook it up,,Don't go buying a new one as I'm just guessing..,Suppose it should be easy enough to test the key with an ohm meter,,Whatever circuits supposed to be created when you turn on the key needs testing,.Hook one up to a few wires and switch it on and see if a circuits created.,Maybe disconnect the battery first,,something may burn out the meter with it hooked up..

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/580/igcircuit.jpg/

There's a diagram of the ignition circuit,,Someone should be able to tell you what to hook up from there to bypass the key.,I'm not electrically onto it enough to know.,

and another bit..

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/9/bitsi.jpg/

and the wiring diagram

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/546/93xr650lwiring.jpg/

Looks like you just hook the two wires together from the switch to create the circuit.,,hugely secure not.,

Edited by Horri

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Just an update... I replaced the pulse generator from a running engine and it still has no spark!!! Next would be the stator but that has to wait till the morning. I also have a full wiring harness just in case. Am i wasting my time on the stator or should i just go ahead and replace the whole wiring harness to cut to the chase. As stated previously, i have replaced the CDI, coil/cap/plug, start switch, diode, neutral switch, kickstand switch at least twice. The battery is currently at 13V and cranks the motor fine. I havent inspected the cam timimg or valve lash yet but i don't think that's the issue since the bike was running fine beforehand. Any other ideas?

You must have a broken wire, connection some were. do you have a digital volt meter that will check continuity for the open connection? If so I'd start at the CDI and work my way up. Good Luck

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I also had a spot were a wire rubbed against the frame until the insulation was gone causing it to short out. It was under the seat and took some looking to find. Good luck

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Yahoo! Problem fixed!!! I replaced the wiring harness and viola i got spark! Just took the beast for a spin and it ran like a beast and didn't missed a beat! Thanks for all the help w/ special mention to BrianHare and Electric outlaw...

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Yahoo! Problem fixed!!! I replaced the wiring harness and viola i got spark! Just took the beast for a spin and it ran like a beast and didn't missed a beat! Thanks for all the help w/ special mention to BrianHare and Electric outlaw...

Sy , bout time you got that junk going , I thought I was gonna have drive up and give you a hand ,

was Joe a good hand on this ,

at least he will polish everything up now thats its going ,

when you leaving for out of the country ,

come on down and we can ride the beach a bit before you leave.

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I have a 2004 XR650L that is not getting any spark. I have replaced the CDI and am still not recieving any spark. The pulse genarator is ohming out 0 ohms and the coil pack is on .03 ohms. Not sure if I should replace both or just one of these devices. The last time I rode the bike it rained on it while I was in work and has not worked since. any help would be great.

Thanks NicK Hatton

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