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That YZ450F Guy

Upgrade radiator? (overheating issues)

36 posts in this topic

i have been having trouble with my bike overheating on the trails its an 07 yz450f and i was wondering if getting a bigger radiator would help keep my engine a little cooler. and yes im already using engine ice!

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Easy stuff first...if this is a new thing, check the radiator cap. Try replacing it with a higher vent pressure cap...

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You could also try a lower idle and going a little richer with your fuel screw.

Or a coolant overflow kit.

Edited by honda53

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could also look at getting a better impeller/water pump

I had the Boyseen cover and impeller on my 06yz250f and never had a heat problem in the woods.

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Here we go again. The simplest way is to just buy Evans coolant and be done with it. Boiling point of 375* F. Been using it for 4 years without one boil over.

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A better approach is to correct the actual cause of the heating issue, rather than to find a way to have the engine tolerate running 100 degrees hotter than it was intended too.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?p=10488088#post10488088

Unless you have a faulty cap, a scaled radiator, or "worn out" coolant, you're heating on low speed trails because you aren't moving more air over the radiators. So move more air over the radiators and solve the problem instead of masking it.

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I have to say that the Evans has worked for me. Ive never boiled with it but try to be careful of times when the bikes building heat. Ive done the neverending uphill rut when your stuck a gear high and cant get to the shifter or pushing the bike out of the swamp from hell. I dont let the bike idle for long either. It mat get hot but the coolant stays in the rad. Better than boiling it out and riding with no coolant. I was going to put a overflow tank on but it ended up being unecessary. I used it in my 08 from new so the cooling system was good to start with and air temperatures varied between freezing and 30 degrees Celsius. I could always tell when my bike was probably hot by when OTHER guys bikes were puking. The Hondas especially.

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Honda `s. Well your right , hondas do get hot a times. So i bout bigger rads. end of problem. You mite be able to fine some on ebay , and at a good price , some were from 100 to 200 for a set of new ones. China made , but i`v had no leaks or problmes with themthis past year.

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I have to say that the Evans has worked for me. Ive never boiled with it but try to be careful of times when the bikes building heat. Ive done the neverending uphill rut when your stuck a gear high and cant get to the shifter or pushing the bike out of the swamp from hell. I dont let the bike idle for long either. It mat get hot but the coolant stays in the rad. Better than boiling it out and riding with no coolant. I was going to put a overflow tank on but it ended up being unecessary. I used it in my 08 from new so the cooling system was good to start with and air temperatures varied between freezing and 30 degrees Celsius. I could always tell when my bike was probably hot by when OTHER guys bikes were puking. The Hondas especially.

At last, a reasonable post. It's amazing how people can have such a negative condasending answer yet have no experience with an incredible product.

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What makes Evans so amazing? Hell, just pour concrete in your rads, it never boils over so its good right? Grayracer is right, you need to help the bike cool better. Treat the disease not the symptoms

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Engine Ice is nothing more than propylene glycol and de-ionized water. Normal coolant with a dose of Red Line Water Wetter works very well at lowering engine temps. The higher pressure cap is also a good idea along with trying to go a bit faster in the tight stuff.

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What makes Evans so amazing? Hell, just pour concrete in your rads, it never boils over so its good right? Grayracer is right, you need to help the bike cool better. Treat the disease not the symptoms

Maybe yo need to educate yourself before you start blabbing nonsense.

www.evanscooling.com

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Maybe you need to back off the attitude. You stated your point. No one appreciates vitriol like "blabbing nonsense", and I'm not inclined to tolerate it.

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I wonder if the engineer that designed your motorsickle engine took into account the heat coefficient of water and all the other materials of your cooling system? Then he may have come up with an optimum operating temp that allowed for a specific flame front to move across the top of your piston at a certain speed? Do ya think maybe his engineering background would have given him knowledge of such wonder juice? I wonder why he chose not to use it?

Just something to consider before adding silver bullets to your sickle. :lol:

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The $120 Chinese-made oversize radiators have worked good so far for me. I've yet to get into some of the really tight, slow "no-air-moving" kinda situations yet. I haven't been in any of the situations SparksXR426 described above: "the neverending uphill rut when your stuck a gear high and cant get to the shifter or pushing the bike out of the swamp from hell." But in the "follow my 16 yr. old daughter around our property while she learns clutch & brake control" situations & such, the radiators have kept stuff cool so far..... :)

I have to think that a small, battery powered fan is probably the best solution. I go to trials events frequently, and have a buddy that rides nothing but trials. :lol: Look at how those bikes are used. Extremely low speed situations with no air moving through their tiny little radiator, other than what their fan gives. I seldom (well, I don't ever recall) seeing one puke any fluid out. It's because of the fans moving air for them, not any magic mix of chemicals for coolant. My own opinion (and you can take it for what it's worth.... :banghead: ) is that a mechanical solution is what's needed......

Jimmie

Edited by Diesel Goober

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