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crf450319

Looks like I'm going to buy an '11, what are the must have MX mods ?

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I've pretty much got my '09 sold and I'm going to buy a new '11 yz450f, I was wondering what are the MUST have mods ?

I ride MX only, in B/Int. & Vet. I'm 215 Lbs without gear so I'm guessing I'll need to re-spring, what about the Pro Circuit linkage ? Do they help that much or make the bike handle that much better ? Is an aftermarket pipe a necessity, how about the stock header - are the aftermarket ones producing any more power or widening the curve a significant amount ?

For me, must haves on my '09 were the fork/shock springs, pipe, Ironman rear sprocket/ORN6 chain and rad cages.

I also ran an '06 ignition, jetting/needle, Boyesen accel pump cover to help in the power dept but they weren't as critical as getting rid of the stock pipe.

Just thought I'd see what you guys have to say..... :lol:

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A pipe really makes the power come alive. A GYTR -tuner is also something I can recommend. Very easy to use and really fun to try different settings.

I have ridden with the stock linkarm the hole time and don't think it is as needed as on the crf450 -09/-10. But investing in a good suspension setup is something I think is important to get out the most fun as possible on this bike.

I also recommend a higher bar than stock. I had good luck with the Renthal Twinwall 997 bend.

Good luck !

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here are a couple of things I have done with my 2010, and noticed an improvement with each part. as mentioned above get the power tuner also..

Ride engineering lowering linkage

DT-1 filter and cage

DRD pipe

Cycra one piece shrouds

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Thanks guys, I pulled my Reed bend Pro-Tapers off of my '09 and sold it with the stock bars so those will go on the new bike. My buddy that I ride with has a tuner so I'm good that way.

Thanks !

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I had my suspension done by ENZO and they said do NOT use a linkage. Keep it stock. I must say that I don't feel a need for the linkage once it is revalved by a shop.

Tuner is a must. Looks like you have that covered.

I have the full FMF 4.1 pipe and megabomb header but many have suggested to keep the stock header and just get a slip on. Supposed to be same performance both ways.

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Lucky i have been trying to sell my 2009 for like 4 months.!!!!!!!

Mine sold in two weeks, although I listed it at $3900 (a steal of a deal here in MB). There's another '09 listed for $5000, and another for $4500 so I'm priced pretty aggressively. I could have listed for $4500 and hoped for $4200, just thought this way would be easier - at the end of the day $300 isn't going to break the bank.

Edited by crf450319

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Yea mine is now listed at 4000.00 no interest, I might just keep the hog!

Edited by grayracer513
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- A 50-tooth rear and a good skid plate (that protects your water pump)

- A FFW makes it track a lot better.. The bike is a beast down low and through the mid range

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Just sold the bike, I was extremely close to shutting the deal down... but let it go.

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

Edited by crf450319

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At your weight a 5.9 kg spring is probably advisable. I'm 200 lbs. and pretty close to minimum spring length on the stock 5.7. Still works great but right on the edge.

This is the primary reason I went to a 50 T rear sprocket, to shorten/decrease the swingarm leverage. Secondary reason being the gap from 2nd to 3rd is a little wide. 50T makes it perfect. I've heard people saying they went to stiffer fork springs but I don't have a problem with that at all. Another advantage of the 50T shortening the swingarm/wheelbase.

A better front tire is mandatory. I went with a MX51.

A pipe is not mandatory but I went with a GYTR/FMF slip-on to wake up the top end. No need for a full system.

Have I mentioned I love this bike? Enjoy!:lol:

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Congrats on the 2011 - I can't believe how good this bike is stock. Don't believe everything you read in the mags or online. For MX - bars of choice, Windham or Reed Pro-Tapers in the forward position, 49 or 50T rear sprocket, +5cc of oil in the forks and +2 compression, front tire, and a slip on exhaust. Oh yeah, probably the 5.9 shock spring (I'm only 170). Then, go win!

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Another vote for the lowering link. I felt it improved cornering. I also have my suspension revalved. I've ridden w/ a 48/49/50 tooth sprocket, and I like the 50 the best (I ride all mx).

A friend has the tuner, but if he didn't, I'd purchase one. I may still get one. Bars are such a personal thing, I can't make a recommendation. I'm 5'7'', and prefer the stock yz bend. I've also sed the Carmichael in the past and liked them.

Congrads on the bike, I really like my 2010 yz450.

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A link helps.

The OP will need heavier spring no matter what.

A more aggressive tune and/or pipe is welcomed by faster and more aggressive MX racers.

I like to add 1 to the rear sprocket.

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Well... the plans for the '11 are on hold. I found another '09 with "less than an hour" on it for under $4000. I'm waiting on pictures, and I'd have a thourough look at it before I'd do anything but here's where I'm at.

A new '11 will cost me $3000 difference, then I'll spend around $700 on a plastic kit , decals, # plates, fork springs, pipe, PC link ?, chain/Ironman rear sprocket, etc.

So I'll have to dish out $3700 from my line of credit.... I'm not crazy about that idea.

The '09 would cost me $300 difference and I'd only have to spend around $300 on a chain/Ironman, my old number plates are shot so I'd need new ones and pre-printed #'s.

Total, the new(ish) '09 would cost me is $600 - $700.

I really liked my '09, I know it pretty well (engine, suspension etc) and I would've kept my old one but it was time to sell it. I'd like an '11 but on the other hand I'm not dying to have one. I really don't like the idea of adding almost $4g to my line of credit for a new bike, for what ? If the deal falls through on the '09, then I'll buy an '11 but if I can save myself $3500 now (and another $1200 when it comes time to sell in 2 years) then I'll try to do that first.

Still do appreciate the info though guys, thanks ! :lol:

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Just some food for thought on the aftermarket goodies. I ride Yamaha 's and win the vet class almost all the time. I ride box stock except I have changed the clickers quite a bit ( more compression and rebound for both, according to MXA) and I put the less hit map on it. That's it, and people always ask me what I did to the bike. No pipe, no springs, or suspension valving changes. Always use KYB oil front and rear. Change oil every ride in the engine and air filter sometimes twice a day. Still have the little yellow secondary air filter in the bike.

I let two other people ride it. Both said it had no top end and needed cams, and the other said the suspension needed done. Both are back of the pack vet C riders. One of them lined it up against the other buddy and pulled a practice holeshot over his buddy 4 times in a row and he never can holeshot with his own 450 against his buddy. Still thought the bike needed more power.... :lol:

I guess that proves my bike had no top end, or rear end traction for that matter...... They read this stuff on here all the time.

Some of you guys read to much into this stuff. The bike can win any local race in the USA as a box stock unit.

Just saying unless your JS7, you don't need all that stuff. These people that need a pipe, link, suspension done don't even know how to get what the bike has stock. Just saying again......

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Just some food for thought on the aftermarket goodies. I ride Yamaha 's and win the vet class almost all the time. I ride box stock except I have changed the clickers quite a bit ( more compression and rebound for both, according to MXA) and I put the less hit map on it. That's it, and people always ask me what I did to the bike. No pipe, no springs, or suspension valving changes. Always use KYB oil front and rear. Change oil every ride in the engine and air filter sometimes twice a day. Still have the little yellow secondary air filter in the bike.

I let two other people ride it. Both said it had no top end and needed cams, and the other said the suspension needed done. Both are back of the pack vet C riders. One of them lined it up against the other buddy and pulled a practice holeshot over his buddy 4 times in a row and he never can holeshot with his own 450 against his buddy. Still thought the bike needed more power.... :lol:

I guess that proves my bike had no top end, or rear end traction for that matter...... They read this stuff on here all the time.

Some of you guys read to much into this stuff. The bike can win any local race in the USA as a box stock unit.

Just saying unless your JS7, you don't need all that stuff. These people that need a pipe, link, suspension done don't even know how to get what the bike has stock. Just saying again......

Great post, and so true.

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The pipe that was stock on my '09 was perfectly fine, I'm sure someone else could have ridden it better than I did with it left on the bike. The most important thing for me was..... I hated it. I like for any of my bikes to have a certain amount of "hit", does it mean that I will be faster and win the races I enter ? Maybe, maybe not - winning races (for me) doesn't matter, I have to enjoy riding the bike.

I thought the stock suspension on my '09 felt pretty good stock too, the only issue I had was that it would bottom on g-outs and if I over jumped anything I felt like I'd left my ankles back where the bike had first touched down - I'm 215 Lbs without gear, these bikes are sprung for a 175/180 Lb rider.

Did I have to spend $180 on fork & shock springs ? Did they help me win any races ? Do I care about winning races ? What I care about is that after I made those mods, the bike felt 100 times better..... for me. I can see how some people might read a thread like this and think that they have to get the sort of parts we're talking about, which isn't the case. I've ridden long enough and have come to a conclusion as to what I like my bike(s) to do and how I want them to feel in certain situations, if I can eliminate having to do the trial and error by myself (that's why I started this thread) then I'm further ahead and I haven't wasted time wondering which products offer those "big difference" gains.

Do I ride my bike to it's potential ? Not even close. Do I want it to handle (both chassis and power delivery) in a way that I like best, yes yes yes !!

How/what you ride will also help determine if you need any aftermarket parts, especially suspension components (springs most importantly). I do most of my riding at my buddy's place, there's a downhill that's about 100' and an uphill that's 110'/115' - occasionally I'll either come up short or over-jump the uphill and EVERY time I do that I'd pay 4 times what my springs originally cost me. If you're interested here's a 51 second clip of me riding on that track in 2010.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvXGI2l9NWQ

Telling people that they don't know what they need really isn't anyone's business (esp. in a thread asking about the most common mods to make), we all know that these are great bikes. But, there are products out there that can tailor these bikes to our own bodies, riding speed/style/terrain and help improve the bike over a stocker. Although I get where you're coming from, and I understand your viewpoint. We don't need every bolt on, bling, light weight, go fast product out there.

Your mileage may vary....

Just some food for thought on the aftermarket goodies. I ride Yamaha 's and win the vet class almost all the time. I ride box stock except I have changed the clickers quite a bit ( more compression and rebound for both, according to MXA) and I put the less hit map on it. That's it, and people always ask me what I did to the bike. No pipe, no springs, or suspension valving changes. Always use KYB oil front and rear. Change oil every ride in the engine and air filter sometimes twice a day. Still have the little yellow secondary air filter in the bike.

I let two other people ride it. Both said it had no top end and needed cams, and the other said the suspension needed done. Both are back of the pack vet C riders. One of them lined it up against the other buddy and pulled a practice holeshot over his buddy 4 times in a row and he never can holeshot with his own 450 against his buddy. Still thought the bike needed more power.... :lol:

I guess that proves my bike had no top end, or rear end traction for that matter...... They read this stuff on here all the time.

Some of you guys read to much into this stuff. The bike can win any local race in the USA as a box stock unit.

Just saying unless your JS7, you don't need all that stuff. These people that need a pipe, link, suspension done don't even know how to get what the bike has stock. Just saying again......

Edited by crf450319

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I hated the front brake on my 10 and 11 YZ's so i got the oversized front break rotor from BRAKING and it made a huge difference. I got more out of the mod than more of less every other mod i did besides re-valve/spring of my suspension

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I hated the front brake on my 10 and 11 YZ's so i got the oversized front break rotor from BRAKING and it made a huge difference. I got more out of the mod than more of less every other mod i did besides re-valve/spring of my suspension

I back you 100% on that one ! I got the 270 front rotor and brakes became so much better !

I am also one of those who like to spend money on stuff to my bike, and sure some of the stuff is unnecessary but alot of the stuff makes the bike more tailored for my riding style. I have been riding for over 20 years so I pretty much know what I'm looking for. But I understand the talk above...many riders buy stuff they dont even know what it's good for.

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