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SoundChaser

CR routed line/DSP fork guard combo

16 posts in this topic

Just a comment...I was at my local dealer the

the other day inquiring about the DSP riveted on cable mount and was lucky enough to talk to a disty that described that DSP is having problems with the mount cracking and is currently under re-design which should be available in about two or three weeks. :)

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I made the mistake of buying a Carbon Fiber Works unit that failed at the cable mount bracket as well. The bracket pulled a large chunk of the guard out when it failed and the cable was flopping around. Luckily, I had a bracket from Surf 'N Turf that I modified to work. It's still on the guard and is holding up well. Also, carbon fiber frame guards don't hold up well. They tend to wear through quickly as your boot rubs on them. I have the DSP frame guards and will replace them with Acerbis plastic units that are much more durable as I have a set on another bike.

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Anyone notice the add in DirtRider for the Cr routed/braided line w/DSP carbon fork guards for the Yamaha 's, its a kit through Mr.X for $139. Thought this was a good deal just passing it along.

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Boit, I bought the same two CF DSP accessories for my bike, and both the same things happened. The disc destroyed my CR style brakehose when the mount broke. A local dealer sells a custom machined part for $16.95 that works well. I will post a pic. As for the frameguards, I am about to coat them with "Rhinoliner" stuff. My local hardware store sells a kit.

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Mike, it seems to me that the simple soltion is to rivet the bracket with large washers to spread out the load. My bracket had two tapered phillips head screws that just caused the carbon fiber to crack and split open causing the failure. Carbon fiber is very strong under certain conditions but extremely unreliable under others. Testing should have revealed these weaknesses and mandated a particular design. These things drive me up the wall.

Every once in a while, a photo will show up in the one of the rags that show how the pros use a different bracket than what is offered to the rest of us. It makes me wonder if this was supplied by the manufacturer, or was it modified by the mechanic as he recognized, or even, experienced a failure and made the necessary change? This is not the first time I've bought an aftermarket item only to HAVE to do my own modifications to make it better when the manufacturer should have done this in the first place! GRRR!

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I designed my own strong and lightweight hose mount for the Honda style routing. It has been trouble free for a year. Maybe I could make a few for you guys after my heel heals more.

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Beware!!! I would not buy from Mr. X. I live just a few miles from Mr. X (that is the mail order name, the shop name is Magic Racing). I drive many miles away to shop at other shops.

The owner is known around the area for having absolutely NO customer support. He takes your cash, then says "screw you".

Actually, he has never said "screw you." But he has said, "F@#$ you", and also "You didn't get an inferior product like that here" (When I did). And also, "Too bad, now it's your problem." Etc.

Here is a link to local comments about the place: http://network54.com/Hide/Forum/79370?it=2

------------------

'01 YZ426

'00 Harley Police Special(Got it for free, and I get paid to ride it!)

[This message has been edited by tawood385 (edited 07-23-2001).]

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Is there a way to route the stock cable like a CR? I would like to try it if anyone has a pic of how to do it. That's the one thing I think the 426 needs- a stronger front brake.

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No, you have to buy an aftermarket hose. Take a look at a Honda to see how it is routed. The difficulties are clamping the hose to the fork guard, and worse yet, bleeding it.

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I put my new brake line and DSP C.F. fork guards on the YZ early last week, i got them from MR. X, and they seemed nice, they where helpfull, and FAST. two days later, on my door step. that was nice. Carbon Fiber is awesome! the cable mount is questionable though. 1 hard week of riding (almost 10 hours) and jumping with no problems... knock on wood! I saw the warning about MR x, but they seem better than a few of my local guys, definatly cheaper, my service was good, even when I pestered them with lots of questions. I think I'll go back to them again. have fun ... roost the slow guy!!

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Mxer303

Mounting the brake line to the fork guard is not that hard and you don't have to buy anything to do it. Use the stock brake line clamp (located at the bottom of the fork leg before the brake line loops around), you will want to grind one side flat so it fits flush with your fork guard. Drill two holes in your guard on the left side to match up with the holes in the clamp...slide the new Fast Line brake line in place, tighten the bolts and you are about to exprience better brakes. I would reccomend drilling two smaller holes about four inches down for a zip ty...this will help keep the brake line off of your stanction (sp) tube. I did this on my 99 YZ250...never had a problem after two years of racing/riding. As far as bleeding the brake with the new brake line...first time will take some patients, but after that no problem. I hope that made sense. I will try to take a picture and post it

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Hey Crazy, what kind of performance benefit did you notice, I saw the other post but that was on a 250. Does is help?

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I have also gotten the shaft from Mr.X!! They lost my order, got my CC# mixed up (and blamed it on me), then got over charged for one of the two items I ordered. Stay away!! Pay extra some place else!

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the shortened line will definatly increase stopping power! Stoppies are easy, and all breaking has more finese and control. the lever has a little bit more pressure,( I think?)and a better feel, but it will definatly lock up quicker. I am happier than I was with the stock.

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MGR8: I never even considered looking at that clamp to see if it would be modifiable for the new CR style hose. Thank goodness I save everything. I'm going to do that right away. Thanks.

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Boit, that's the way team Yamaha does it, but I don't care for it because the hose is not held in the ideal position. The hose clamp should position the hose where the stock plastic "hooks" hold it.

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