Who studs their tires for ice?

I'm looking for some opinions and information on the best way to stud tires for ice riding. I've only done 4 wheeler tires in the past where there's no inner tube. I'm afraid of either puncturing the tube or not going deep enough and the studs ripping out. Please pass your secrets on to me.

Thanks guys!

Oh, FYI I ride an 09 YZ450F

This may help

That's a good video, I'm just wondering if those little studs work well on ice, they were doing a lot of woods riding.

I stud mine for the frozen ground not so much ice but I use kold kutters. The longest ones that I feel will fit for the particular tire I'm using. They do and will come out but they sure grip well and they're designed for ice so I'm sure they will work. This year I may try a cut tube as a liner and use longer ones. I think they sell a liner you can use as well.

For true ice riding, get a set of pre-built tires. There is a lot of R&D that goes into making a good ice tire and most back-yard builders don't get the most out of their tires. This guy is the go-to man for ice tires up here in Canada.

http://www.marcelfournier.ca/p-13_125cc-and-up_5_1.html

And if you do decide to build your owm, I would recomend his crews at a minimum.

And if you want tires to ride off road in the winter (snow, rocks, frozen ground but not ice racing), lots of guys are using Trelleborg tires or making their own studded tires using best grip studs

http://www.best-grip.com/eng/default.asp

The best grip studs don't pop out like kold cutters and last a long time. Put in as many as you want and remove and put into a new tire when your old one wears out. They have a carbide centre so stay shap as they wear and are amazingly durable.

I was gonna use something similar to those grip studs but at close to $1 a piece I don't think so. Sure would be nice though.

federette's might be a good option for you since you are in wi

Yeah, $1 a stud is not cheap but all of the winter trail guys up here swear by those over anything else. And they NEVER come out, the nobs tear off before the stubs pop out.

I'll stud for an ice race when I'm stupid enough to enter after forgetting that I suck riding in ice and snow and end up being beat my studless racers.

I was thinking something similar but with carriage bolts so the inside is smooth with a worn out tube installed over the heads with rubber cement to hold it in place so the heads don't rub on the normal tube.

Good Luck!!!

thanks for the input guys, i'll have to compare price and quality to find my best bet. I don't think I could bring myself to spend that much on special tires

For true ice riding, get a set of pre-built tires. There is a lot of R&D that goes into making a good ice tire and most back-yard builders don't get the most out of their tires. This guy is the go-to man for ice tires up here in Canada.

http://www.marcelfournier.ca/p-13_125cc-and-up_5_1.html

And if you do decide to build your owm, I would recomend his crews at a minimum.

And if you want tires to ride off road in the winter (snow, rocks, frozen ground but not ice racing), lots of guys are using Trelleborg tires or making their own studded tires using best grip studs

http://www.best-grip.com/eng/default.asp

The best grip studs don't pop out like kold cutters and last a long time. Put in as many as you want and remove and put into a new tire when your old one wears out. They have a carbide centre so stay shap as they wear and are amazingly durable.

screw in ice racing studs on an old set of knobbies is the low buck way to go on the trails. Stay away from xc skiiers & snowmobilers lol & as long as there is not too much snow...the more icy it is the better

7/8" Cold Cutters work great in the rears like an IRC-VE33, and don't go thru to the tube, 3/4" work on some front tires like a ED-11 Bridgestone. I put liners in the ice racing tires I build [trimmed street tires] and sell as the longer 1 1/4'' and 1" screws go into the liner and last very well. My tires are similar to Fredette tires but my rears are knobbies which work better in snow/ice when a plow isn't so readily available. Fredette tires are great BTW. Alot of work tho and after 35 years I got them working great and winning races. IMG_6752-ECR-53-1.jpg

Edited by stevekanya

7/8" Cold Cutters work great in the rears like an IRC-VE33, and don't go thru to the tube, 3/4" work on some front tires like a ED-11 Bridgestone. I put liners in the ice racing tires I build [trimmed street tires] and sell as the longer 1 1/4'' and 1" screws go into the liner and last very well. My tires are similar to Fredette tires but my rears are knobbies which work better in snow/ice when a plow isn't so readily available. Fredette tires are great BTW. Alot of work tho and after 35 years I got them working great and winning races. IMG_6752-ECR-53-1.jpg

these tires work great IRCve35 front and m5b rear on face book at extremegriptires@yahoo.com

530543_321300054589893_284964061556826_850200_269912689_n.jpg

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1200 kold kutters in a rear trail tire with inserts inside and 800 kold kutters in the front costs about 700 bucks but lasts couple years. The only thing is the tires are really heavy then like double weight.

I built two sets then bought some Fredettes. The Fredettes are worth the money. The website dieseljo.com has a lot of ice riding links and info.

My riding buddys use screws like these BUT without the self-drilling tip, they are 4.2x13mm. They do the job, is cheap and last very well. If you want you can just take them out again. Else they use real stud tires with wolfram studs.

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But better:

354037524.jpg

Edited by RasmusDK

A 450 would spin those into someone's eye

On the steet maybe, else no..

IMAG0103.jpg

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1/4" clear poly liner between tire and tube. hope to try it out next week

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Edited by n16ht5

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