2012 wr450

Just came back from my first ride - great bike, no bog, smooth power, beautiful suspension, didn't notice the weight at all. Really annoying decel backfire. Not sure if it was my pipe - I am running the stock pipe with GYTR insert and the second baffle opened up with an extra 20mm hole. Will try more fuel on the low throttle setting for my next ride to see if it makes any difference.

Just came back from my first ride - great bike, no bog, smooth power, beautiful suspension, didn't notice the weight at all. Really annoying decel backfire. Not sure if it was my pipe - I am running the stock pipe with GYTR insert and the second baffle opened up with an extra 20mm hole. Will try more fuel on the low throttle setting for my next ride to see if it makes any difference.

Hmmm - that won't work. According to the Powertuner manual, the 1/8 throttle setting has no effect at idle.

Motoman is spot on. How I broke in all my Husky 4Ts. Amsoil 20/50 V twin all the way. Rotella is for diesel engines not dirt bikes

Took mine out to the track yesterday set up with FMF system, Comp. ECU, heavier springs and mapped to GYTR by FMF exhaust system. OMG! After a little tweaking the bike ripped. The WR can do anything my KX can do including 50 footers. It douse handle a little heavier but is compensated with a little moor counter balancing in the turns. I’m very pleased with the bike.

Got my pipe and ecu yesterday and finally getting it back together tonight (already did the throttle stop, air box plug, and hand guards) and taking it out on Sunday for break in. One question, I installed the ecu last night and then plugged in the tuner to upload the new mapping for the pipe and the tuner said it could not find the ecu?!?!? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated....

One question, I installed the ecu last night and then plugged in the tuner to upload the new mapping for the pipe and the tuner said it could not find the ecu?!?!? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated....

Make sure your push-button ignition is turned on.

Make sure your push-button ignition is turned on.

Yep, first thing I thought of and still same outcome.

My local shop just got the first one in. I was able to throw my leg over it, climb all over it, and I like. Now time to find funding.

delete

Edited by YHGEORGE

If someone has a pair of calipers and a digital camera and is feeling adventurous enough to take off their LH crankcase cover, you might be able to help me. I'm trying to learn if the 2012 flywheel and stator will bolt into a 2011 motor. We've already got the 3-wire rectifier and an ECU for the 12-1 trigger pattern. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/952949-2012-flywheel-and-stator-retrofit-into-2011-motor/

Make sure your push-button ignition is turned on.

.

Thanks BoiseBee, I just got a chance to mess with it again and when I tried it last night, the push button ignition was on, but I had turned the tuner on first :thumbsup: I guess thats why it didn't read it.

I was stoked to see the tuner come on by itself when I turned the ignition on first. Then no problem uploading the mapping. :thumbsup: Now its running awesome and I cant wait to finally get to ride it on Sunday!

You will notice a BIG difference 426Brap. Just like BoiseBee said, you will have better starting, throttle response, power and no popping. Even though it's the same motor, the 2012 WR feels so much moor torquie and responsive. The EFI system really gives the 5 valve motor what it always needed. This is going to be a highly competitive bike, watch out ktm.

I need some help with the throttle stop on my 2012 WR. How do I remove and replace the screw? I have been away from riding for 30+ yrs and couldn't help myself so, I bought the WR. I have no idea how to access the FI to fix the throttle issue.

Edited by hm450

You will notice a BIG difference 426Brap. Just like BoiseBee said, you will have better starting, throttle response, power and no popping. Even though it's the same motor, the 2012 WR feels so much moor torquie and responsive. The EFI system really gives the 5 valve motor what it always needed. This is going to be a highly competitive bike, watch out ktm.

You're not kidding 911! It was a HUGE difference! The thing came to life with the new ECU and a little tunning. I tried 2 different maps so far. Stock, which ran very nice, but no big power serge (should be great for tight trails and woods) and the FMF pipe map which seems to be very crisp and snappy and has a very fast throtle response (great for open desert riding).

I need some help with the throttle stop on my 2012 WR. How do I remove and replace the screw? I have been away from riding for 30+ yrs and couldn't help myself so, I bought the WR. I have no idea how to access the FI to fix the throttle issue.

Great choice mabton8! On the throtle issue, Its not the FI for the fix on the throtle stop. Its a torx bolt that needs to be exchanged for a smaller one (see above for the replacement part from ace hardwear) and is located where the throtle cables come into the throtle housing at the bottom. On mine it was a security torx bolt (its the torx with the little hole in the center) I believe its a #3 or #4. Once I had the right tool, it came out easily. Good luck!

Braap!

Any body have any idea what these 2 parts are for.

The black one seems to be a cover and is soft plastic and the blue one is hard plastic.

The dealer gave them to me in a zip lock that was in my box of books and parts???

Hmmmm.jpg

^ Page 1-7 of the owners manual:

Fuel hose joint covers.

"The fuel hose joint cover are used to prevent mud, dust, and other foreign material from entering the fuel pump when the fuel hose is disconnected"

Looks like the Blue gets stuck in the hole. The Black covers the connection.

Edited by supermega1

^ Page 1-7 of the owners manual:

Fuel hose joint covers.

"The fuel hose joint cover are used to prevent mud, dust, and other foreign material from entering the fuel pump when the fuel hose is disconnected"

Looks like the Blue gets stuck in the hole. The Black covers the connection.

Thank you. Don't know how I missed it.

I just had the dealer replace the WR throttle screw with one from a YZ450 to allow for full throttle usage.

I don't know exactly how they took the airbox plug out, but here is a picture of it so you can remove it yourself.

Airboxplug.jpg

I took my airbox snorkel out breifly and the amount of dirt that gets into the filter cancels out any such improvement made...

I would highly discourage the removal of this item! there is no gain from this, the snorkel is big enough to let the perfect amount of air in....

unless you never ride hard enough to spin up dirt or youre strictly riding on the road, this so called "MOD" is IDIOTIC.

Edited by matthewbosworth

I took my airbox snorkel out breifly and the amount of dirt that gets into the filter cancels out any such improvement made...

I would highly discourage the removal of this item! there is no gain from this, the snorkel is big enough to let the perfect amount of air in....

unless you never ride hard enough to spin up dirt or youre strictly riding on the road, this so called "MOD" is IDIOTIC.

Calm down.

More dirt on the filter is proof of more air to the motor.

Dirt doesn't just 'find it's way in', it's sucked in with the surrounding air.

The Port Tube (restrictor) is designed to let air in only at certain pulse frequencies.

This is how it limits air intake.

It has nothing to do with the opening size, but with the tuned length of the port tube.

Removing the Port Tube lowers the resonant frequency of the Air box, allowing air to enter over a wider range of pulse frequencies.

Removing just the restrictor alone will do NOTHING to improve performance.

You must do all mods together as a 'system' or you will be wasting your time.

You can fight it all you want, but if you want a clean running motor with the best possible throttle response at all rpms, you have to remove the restictor.

Edited by Krannie

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