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bully_austin

buckled wheel / fork seal leak

7 posts in this topic

hi

i went riding yesterday after my near miss nose dive . i cant have checked my bike very well . i have a buckled front wheel and leaking forkseal.

is it normal if the front wheel is buckled , for the brake disc to be wobbling all over the place as well ? i thought it would buckle through the spokes and not the hub?

i have never changed forkseals before (lazy , taking to the shop was easy)are there any tips?special tools required ?

by the way , im from new zealand and ride all terrains . mud , sand , tracks , trail . all within 1hrs drive . me and some mates are trying to get some photos to post here .

out

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Bully - what do you mean by "buckled wheel "? Is that as in "bent rim"?

The front disc is suseptable to bending if you hit it on ANYTHING. It is not very robust. They also are not all that hard to straighten / reflatten.

On the front wheel, did you tighten the spokes since the bike was new? If the spokes were too loose, they will pull loose on repeated impacts. Too tight is not good either. There have been some guys reporting broken hubs, but that has been mostly rear, and is agueably due to too tight of chain (slack).

What year is it? '00 or '01?

Boomer

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my rim has buckle in it , as well as the brake disc . can only guess that the disc has hit something like a rut on the same day . hub is fine . it is a 2000' model .

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You must have hit something hard. Or landed very hard. OR.... your tire pressure may have been low, and you buckled the rim due to insufficient pressure.

I dented my front rim by hitting a square edge bump while having too low of tire air pressure.

Boomer

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In my last response yesterday, I added quite a bit of info pertaining to forks and fork seals.

When I went back to this thread both entries were there, but now I see the 2nd one is gone.

Did you happne to see that info?

Boomer

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O.K. - let's see if I can remember what I wrote. You can do this job - just take your time. Lay out a big piece of clean cardboard

and have plenty of clean rags on hand.

1st - loosen the upper clamp bolts - 2 each side. This will allow easy loosening of the top fork cap. If you don't do this, you will have quite a time getting the top cap loose as it is very difficult to hold the fork small diameter and break loose the nut at the same time. So the lower fork clamps act as a vise for you while you break loose the top cap - do the same - only in reverse when re-installing.

Follow the manual on disassembly - you will not have to remove the inner rods to change the seals or oil. Just pump the fork while upsidedown to get out all the old oil. Once you get to this point you can remove the wire retainer at the slider and then keep pulling apart the upper from the lower in a sort of tapping motion - they will separate. The seals and spacers will all come out easily.

When you go to install the new seals be very careful to protect the feather edge - this is the edge that does the sealing. The manual shows how to use a THIN plastic sandwich bag over the end of the fork (sharp) tube to prevent nicking the seal edge. Don't use the heavier zip-lock type bags - they are too heavy (thick). I use the new fork oil to lube up the bag REAL GOOD to help the seal to slide over. I devised a seal driver by getting a piece of PVC pipe from Lowe's and cutting / sectioning part of it away so when compressed, it matches the fork diameter. When tapping down on the PVC seal driver - go easy. AND STAY OFF OF THE OUTER DIAMETER OF THE SEAL SO IT DOES NOT GET DAMAGED. Once you have the seal down in place you will be well on you way to never paying the dealership good money again.

Follow the manual in terms of refilling with oil.

I and many other guys watch the site regularly, so just keep us posted on how it goes - we can give you a hand (instructional)if you run into any snags.

Good luck,

Boomer

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