'10/'11/'12 if these existed would you buy them?

***THIS IS FOR MY OWN PERSONAL INFORMATION AND CURIOSITY AND HAVE NO INTENTION OF CREATING OR SELLING THESE PRODUCTS***

In my experience the 2 major problems with this bike is cold weather riding causing cold coolant temps and inconsistent idle speed creating stall conditions (among other problems). The other problem is starting the bike with hot engine.

Would you buy a complete thermostat package with fittings, housing, hoses and everything required for installation?

The negative would be expense for a setup like I am using. To function properly in needs to be a bypass design with a check valve in place to prevent backwards coolant flow under closed thermostat operation. It would look something like this:

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For those running a rekluse setup this is a must IMO as some of you have had some stalling issues with the reckluse which is really noticable in cold weather when the idle speed will not remain constant due to varying coolant temps. Other advantages are that it corrects an excessive rich running condition in certain situation thus creating better performance, less carbon, and possible decreased fuel consumption (mostly for trial riding). Anyway would you but it if it were available?

NEXT:

a lever similar to hotstart lever than when pulled would open the fast idle air circuit and aid in hot starts. It would be a one kick deal even in gear with this. Not sure of the expensive of this as it doesn't exist and may be difficult to incorperate with the idle adjustment screw. Would you buy it if it were available?

Thanks for the replies!

Edited by tech24

i would like a handle bar lever for the choke(or whatever its called). im a midget and i keep bending the rad. fins

never thought of that, it would be nice for convienence. Try getting to it with radiator braces in the way.

never thought of that, it would be nice for convienence. Try getting to it with radiator braces in the way.

Yea I hear that!

I'd love it if my 2010 started easyer!

I wish I had the know how to make such a device. I think it would work well. If I crack my throttle mine will almost always start first kick when hot and in gear. Problem is you gotta crack the throttle just right and idle speed has to be just right. Of course a leaner starting a/f ratio may correct the problem but not sure more air/higher idle speed via a lever would work for certain.

I have a rekluse but every once in a while I'll get stuck on something and it will stall. Usually on a hill, log, or rock where its real fun to try and put in nuetral, not fall, and pull cold start knob while watching your buddies ride away...actually lost one and ended up riding 12 mi back to camp the wrong way by myself.

Your buddies aren't very good ride partners. The guys I ride with regroup at almost every fork or someone rides back to find the straggler. If one of us looses the group, we know we just have to sit and wait to be fetched.

If cracking the throttle "just right" works consistently, you could run something like an existing aftermarket hot start lever with a cable routed to the throttle linkage at the TB. Examine the slip through connections used by the cruise controls on cable operated car throttles for some different ideas on how to make the connection.

Your buddies aren't very good ride partners. The guys I ride with regroup at almost every fork or someone rides back to find the straggler. If one of us looses the group, we know we just have to sit and wait to be fetched.

If cracking the throttle "just right" works consistently, you could run something like an existing aftermarket hot start lever with a cable routed to the throttle linkage at the TB. Examine the slip through connections used by the cruise controls on cable operated car throttles for some different ideas on how to make the connection.

he came back a looked for me but was too late....it was kinda my fault for not waiting too...it hasn't happened again.

thats a good idea, if it were adjusted properly I think that would work. I'd like to add just air and not fuel but I'd imagine a few degrees of throttle postion isn't going to add a substantial amount of fuel. Think I'll look into that.

You said it worked.:thumbsup:

Typically in EFI systems, opening the throttle slightly will increase the amount of delivered fuel, but the extent to which that happens will vary with the complexity of the system and the way it's mapped. Some will deliver very little until they sense a bit more RPM, some will deliver more as if the engine were at idle, but only if the engine actually turns.

Almost all reasonably sophisticated systems have what's called a "clear flood mode", too. The way that works is that when the detected RPM is below minimum idle speed, opening the throttle beyond a certain point stops all fuel delivery from the injector and the engine gets only a load of air. This enables the rider to pump the flood condition out of the engine with straight air, same as can be done with a carbed engine.

yeah it works just really picky about how much throttle is opened which I am assuming is do to adding fuel since these things run so darn rich. Obvously a cable and lever would be more consistent than me guessing. So a lever to open throttle would work well once you got the adjustment perfect. It definently could be done and the idle adjument wouldn't have to be bothered.

BTW: The site I got my t-stat from appears to be back in business. They were unavailable for a long time so if anyone is interested I can give you the info, but it seems to be I may be the only who saw it as a necessity. Depends on climate and type of riding for it to really be needed.

I'm interested in the thermostat, can you send me the info?

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