HEADS UP!!!

Site upgrade in progress... Core site functions are working, but some non-critical features/functions will be temporarily unavailable while we work to restore them over the next couple of weeks.

Please post any bugs you encounter, but before you do, check to see if it's already listed.

Thanks for your patience while we work to improve the community.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
JamesYZF

Handlebar Adjustement YZ450F

17 posts in this topic

I got a 2011 YZ450F and I can't find anywhere in the manual how to adjust the handlebar. What do I need to do to adjust it to my desired setting? Take the handle bars off, or is there a bolt some place that allows me to make the adjustment needed?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Take your handle bars off.. You have two positions to chose from to bolt your clamps down and the clamps themselves are reversible.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is just my preference but from what I read about the 2010 was that you had to really ride up on the front of the seat a bit in order to get the front tire to stay down and get a good bite into the ground to keep the front from pushing.

I had a hard time when I first got mine about the front wanting to climb out of the ruts and wanting to push the front end. I couldnt stay up on the front part of the seat. I then moved the bars all the way foward in the front two holes and turned the posts around to where they would put the bars more futher to the front and this kept me toward the front of the bike more and I was able to stay up on the front of the seat better.

This kept weight on the front of the bike more when going through turns and made the front tire bite down into the dirt better which in turn made the bike turn better and not push or climb out of the berm or rut.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Full forward worked the best for me. However I just installed top mount scotts stabilizer and had to use the next to most forward but haven't ridden it yet. You will want more forward than stock for sure, the only problem with full forward is getting to the darn screw in fork caps.

To move you need to remove bars, and remove the 2 14mm head nuts under the top clamp, place bar mounts in forward holes and turn 180 degrees or leave alone for desired postion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the great help!

I never had to take the handlebars off on any bike I owned. So I'm a bit hesitant as I don't want to screw anything up and have my bars fly off when hitting a jump or anywhere.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks for all the great help!

I never had to take the handlebars off on any bike I owned. So I'm a bit hesitant as I don't want to screw anything up and have my bars fly off when hitting a jump or anywhere.

its no bif deal, just tighten the clamps evenly a few turns at a time on each bolt until they are tight....doesn't have to be perfect. Use a torque wrench if you want and have one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just take note of how things came apart and go for it. You will never learn or get better without trying..You can get a good feel for the required torque while taking it apart.. Your clamps only need to be "forearm" tight. If your pulling hard on the wrench using you shoulder, your over tightening it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tyvm for the great advice. I think I may just tackle it before I go riding this weekend.

Thanks all for the great help as usual.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
the only problem with full forward is getting to the darn screw in fork caps.

Do you know if the bars in the farhtest forward position will interfere with one of those fork bleeder relief valve thingies?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Do you know if the bars in the farhtest forward position will interfere with one of those fork bleeder relief valve thingies?

yeah they both are a PIA to get to with a regular straight screw driver. I have the push button type which will only fit it your forks are mounted flush. I ended us raising mine 5mm and moved bars back 1 position but I had to anyway for stabilizer mount.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
yeah they both are a PIA to get to with a regular straight screw driver. I have the push button type which will only fit it your forks are mounted flush. I ended us raising mine 5mm and moved bars back 1 position but I had to anyway for stabilizer mount.

Thank you for the info.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

At least you're doing it BEFORE the weekend ride. Riding buddy Jerry - who is notorious for making 10000 adjustments on the ride - was new to the YZ450F and decided to do his usual bar adjustment (while everyone is actually riding and not waiting around). Wasn't used to the "take bar off" requirement and spent so much time fiddling that we thought he was lost. Nope, didn't bother to tell anyone.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
At least you're doing it BEFORE the weekend ride. Riding buddy Jerry - who is notorious for making 10000 adjustments on the ride - was new to the YZ450F and decided to do his usual bar adjustment (while everyone is actually riding and not waiting around). Wasn't used to the "take bar off" requirement and spent so much time fiddling that we thought he was lost. Nope, didn't bother to tell anyone.

Doh! If you are last in, you miss out on the beer. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just move mine in the forward position 2 laps later I'm enjoying it. Havnt taking the bars off ill try those position when I get new bars I didn't know about adjusting bar clamps. cool thanks for your thread

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

With most standard handle bars the bars will interfear with the clickers if the bars are in the most forward position. You should still be able to get the bleed screws. I cant really remember when the Pro-Tapers were on mine in the forward position wether they interfeared with the clickers or bleed screw.

I didn't like the Pro Taper bars and put Flexx bars on mine and with them i can get to the bleed screws AOK but the clickers are a different story. I took a penny and ground it down in a table grinder in half (half a cent) and took a file and filed the grounded edge even like a screwdriver.

This way when I want to go in or out with the clickers I just put the penny (half cent) under the bar and down into the clicker slot and turn to a desired setting. Works great! .....I just have to keep up with it and try not to lose it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

from what i understand, there are actually 4 handlebar positions,...2 at the rear mounting holes and 2 for the front.

the handlebar can be left at the rear mounting holes, the mounts themselves can be rotated foward or backwards to position the bars in 2 different locations.

moving the bar mounts to the upper mounting holes will give you 2 more settings, like the rear

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0