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Captn Kirk

Clutch Basket Pictures - is this the problem?

11 posts in this topic

Gents:

Need some advice as I am not an expert and know enough to be dangerous. The clutch on this '05 WR450 seems to be either engaged or dis-engaged and I can't find the all impoprtant in-between when hill climbing.

I've read that grooving takes place be searching threads, but found no images so I have attached an image that shows the clutch housing (outer) and clutch boss (inner) and both have visible grooving when under a lights, but are so slight that one can barely feel them by hand.

Can someone tell me if I have found the problem by looking at the pictures please? I would guess the "grooving" is less that .001, but I haven't figured out a way to actually measure them. I thought I would ask here before asking the stealership.

The friction plates (fiber plates) are within spec at 0.119. Manual calls for 0.115 - 0.121. I have not measured the clutch plates (steel discs) because I don't have a true flat surface to use the .004 in feeler gauge as called for. If the discs and plates all look new, what would the chance be that a plate is warped causing the symptoms in comparison to what's in the pic (since I don't really have a way of measuring for warp/cupping)?

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance guys.

Clutchbasket.jpg

Kirk

Edited by Captn Kirk
Typo's

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I can definately see the grooves, but without being able to actually feel them myself, I can't lend any help with the grooving issue. Someone more knowledgable may be able to tell you what is what just by looking at the picture.

Do you have a glass top coffe table? That would probably be flat enough to measure the warp of the steel plates.

Edited by zlathim

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Do you have a glass top coffe table? That would probably be flat enough to measure the warp of the steel plates.

A glass top coffee table is a great idea. I'll check that out.

Interestingly, I called the dealership and their response is they don't work on the WR very often - mostly street bikes. Their parts guy said he has never sold either half of the basket - this is a long term dealer here in KC, so I find his perspective strange compared to what I have read here.

Hopefully, someone here with expereince will chime in.

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I had a similar problem with mine. When trying to pull the clutch when coming to a stop it would still idle forward. I replaced the "worn" stock basket with a billet(?) barnett clutch basket with steel inserts where the clutch rides to prevent grooving, I also got a new clutch. The aftermarket basket was cheaper than the OEM IIRC. This lessened the problem but it was still slightly there.

I finally caved in and took it to a shop who put my original clutch lever on and spaced the clutch with washers....Who knows how safe that was/is but it worked.

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I can definately see the grooves, but without being able to actually feel them myself, I can't lend any help with the grooving issue. Someone more knowledgable may be able to tell you what is what just by looking at the picture.

Do you have a glass top coffe table? That would probably be flat enough to measure the warp of the steel plates.

Those grooves don't look bad at all.

If you can't feel them with your finger then it is fine.

If you can really feel them then file them down a little and stock a new basket for next time.

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Basket is fine.

Replace the metals, if warped

Replace the fibers.

Put in YZ springs.

Practice modulating.

YZ springs huh? Hmm....that's an interesting thought. Can you tell me what we would accomplish in so doing? Are the YZ springs a variable rate spring?

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YZ springs huh? Hmm....that's an interesting thought. Can you tell me what we would accomplish in so doing? Are the YZ springs a variable rate spring?

(354383-001) vs WR (7213997-001) (softer)

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YZ springs are harder? My WR clutch is already the hardest pull I've ever felt.

What?? The WR is almost as easy as the CRF's !!

Try a RMZ or non-hydralic eurobike clutch....

Springs do not determine how hard your clutch pull is, unless everything else is set up wrong. Going ot YZ should not be very noticeable.

- clutch lever ratio (stock is best)

- actuator spacer (the 'spacer' washers)

- cable housing (they collapse over time, and make the pull harder)

Edited by Krannie

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Basket needs to be a lot worse than that before you start having issues due to grooving

I'd say your issue might be your clutch cable

Take you cable off and check if the inner moves freely

There should be absolutely no binding - the steel wire should move totally freely within the outer

Replace if in doubt

Warped steels result in clutch slip, and clutch drag when the lever is pull all the way in

They warp due to overheating, from excessive clutch slipping, or slipping from knackered friction plates

HTH

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