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Front forks oil change


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Hi everyone,

I would like to change my front forks oil soon (for the first time for me) and would like to know if I do an oil change what parts do I also need to change from inside the forks? If any inner parts need to be changed, what parts exactly do I need to buy for replacement?

As far as I know the forks are not leaking, but I also don't know the conditions of the inner parts of the forks as I have never done a oil change myself before.

Please advise.

Thank you.

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The bike is a 2005 WR450. And I have no idea how many miles on it because I bought it second hand (the bike was not used much before). I have the bike for almost a year now and I can see that the front forks have been opened before (don't know when) because there are marks on the top cap bolt already.

Thanks

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If i was going to tear into the forks and change oil for 50 more dollars i would go ahead and buy the slider bushings and seals. I bought a bike the same way rode it and after a couple of rides change the fork oil also. The forks acted completely different. Its a quick easy job. I have changed seals without bushings and wore out seals in no time. fork oil and rags! I used some nylon tape to cover the treads and end of the fork when installing the seals to keep from damaging seals. I used pvc pipe and hose clamps to drive the bushings, but im going to buy the tool next time. With the pvc i had to measure the bushing and step to make sure i had the bushing fully installed.

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Hi,

Besides changing the the seals and bushings inside, do I also need to change that PROTECTER GUIDE COMP (white part, that seats on the outer tube) or I can reuse the same one?

Do I actually need to remove that PROTECTER GUIDE COMP while replacing the seals?

Thanks

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Hi mate just the seals and oil the white bits will be good to go again if they look ok .

If you need advice on working on your forks have a look on youtube there are loads of vids out there .I can strip and rebuild mine in around 10 mins per leg now ( I had a KTM and the forks were always playing up ).If you remove the white part it makes the seal change a bit easer.

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I usually strip mine completely and do a good wash before I take the caps off. You don't have to but I don't want to have to worry about any dirt in there. If your bike is that old and have never been looked at you will need to change everything inside: inner and outer bushings, and the seal themselves. The wipers should be fine as long as they aren't torn.

As was mentioned check out youtube, loads of videos.

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Thanks everyone for the input!!

Another question that I have is regarding the fork oil level.

My manual specifies 80 ~ 150 mm.

I have no idea of the level right now, thus I was thinking of adding a certain amount of oil like half way between 80 and 150 (which is 115mm) then if necessary keep adding.

In order to do this, do I need to remove the front forks from the bike again or I just need to remove the top cap (or the screws that bleed air) and then add oil??

Whats the oil level that you recommend to start at?

What else do you recommend?

Thanks!!

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Thanks everyone for the input!!

Another question that I have is regarding the fork oil level.

My manual specifies 80 ~ 150 mm.

I have no idea of the level right now, thus I was thinking of adding a certain amount of oil like half way between 80 and 150 (which is 115mm) then if necessary keep adding.

In order to do this, do I need to remove the front forks from the bike again or I just need to remove the top cap (or the screws that bleed air) and then add oil??

Whats the oil level that you recommend to start at?

What else do you recommend?

Thanks!!

I just did mine last month and replaced all the seals and bushings. I had a blown oil seal. Mine is an '06 I bought last year. Good thing I replaced the bushings while I was in there. A seal and bushing kit was just over $50 so you might as well replace them all while you're in there.

My manual states a level ranging from 95-150 but a recommended level of 130 for US bikes (127 for Europe and 125 for Australia and New Zealand). Double check your manual because it should state the recommended level for your year. I believe the range is to allow for fine tuning of the fork action but I'm too much of a suspension noob to worry about it.

It took a couple of hours but was fairly easy. Made the bike handle a lot better so even though I had to do it, I'm glad I did. Plus, I now know when it's been done so I can stay on top of it.

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