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2010 CRF250R Crank Problems


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My sons crf250r's crank is going out at only 44hrs, but were replacing it and I was told to use a Weisco Crank but cant get one as ive been told there not in production yet? so what would u guys recommend? rebuilding stock crank or ???? and also any recommendations to do to the motor while its apart?

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They're in production, my buddy got one for his a month ago when we rebuilt it. He had a hard time finding one, because they were all on backorder from Wiseco. They were suppose to be back on shelves by the first of July. Maybe they're still backordered. Good crank though, and cheap.

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For a few more bucks, you can get a falicon rod, rod bearings, crankshaft pin and thrust washers. You use the original crank, but the parts that go bad are now replaced with top of the line parts. No doubt, the Wiseco crank assembly is a great product also. Falicon and carillo are pretty much top of the line crankshaft components. There is a difference. You will have to get the new parts installed on the crank. Probably $100 more when it's all said and done, but it's a great upgrade.

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yea that falicon company seems pretty good sounding, were going to go with that, is there anywhere in canada to get them? or will we have to go with the states? and can u find me a number to call or a link to something? thanks so much for the help

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can you report your crank failure here please? its to collect data on crank failures, thanks

http://www.crfsonly.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35324&highlight=

Why don't you include something that has a place where people can also post the hours of the bikes that have had 0 issues with the crank? All this data with crank failures is nothing more than complaints and negativity. The real percentage of failures is probably way less than everyone thinks. Could be 1000 bad and 20,000 good. That's only 5% which isn't great, but I'm sure that folks are thinking it's more in the lines of 50%. My point is the data is useless unless there is something to compare it to. All you're going to see on this site is the negative since it's a Q&A forum. Very few people get on here to say how great their 2010 crankshaft is holding up. Know what I mean? Not trying to throw a wrench in the spokes, I just think that there needs to be a comparison even though it's not going to be very accurate anyway. Maybe just another button off the side to select 0 issues with the crankshaft.

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We have had several CRF250's at our place this past season ridden by a double digit pro and very fast B rider. All are mod bikes running high compression and Renegade fuel except one was set of for AMA B stock class. We have not had a crank show any signs of failure and more than 300 hours combined on the bikes.

I suspect many failures are due to poor maintenance. I have watched an seen many people replace air filters and just cringed at how they go about it. Very few people remove the airbox regularly to clean it and many don't seal the air boot.

Every crank we have replaced looked new as did the main bearings.

I don't buy this Honda crank issue that is all over this forum. If you change oil regularly and inspect oil filter for evidence of thrust washer particles, you should catch any problem before it becomes catastrophic.

I allso don't believe these bikes are intended to go 100+ hours without preventative maintenance.

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I think it has to do a lot with the rider also. Some guys sit on the top side of the RPM range in 2nd or 3rd banging off the limiter. Others you never hear the rev limiter because they are in the middle of the RPM range in a higher gear. I was watching Shawn Rife on his 10 CRF250 last winter at a local indoor track riding with some of the fast local guys. I don't think I heard the rev limiter once. Can't say that for the most of other guys. Corner speed made all the difference not having to rely on a lower gear to get out of the corners. I'd be willing to bet that Barcia can tear up a crank in under 20 hrs. Riding style has a lot to do with it. I knew that my kid rodes the limiter on his 08 250, so every 30 hrs, the crank came out. Him finding a new gear would have saved me a quite a few bucks. Maintenance has a ton to do with it also.

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I suspect many failures are due to poor maintenance. I have watched an seen many people replace air filters and just cringed at how they go about it. Very few people remove the airbox regularly to clean it and many don't seal the air boot.

Every crank we have replaced looked new as did the main bearings.

I don't buy this Honda crank issue that is all over this forum. If you change oil regularly and inspect oil filter for evidence of thrust washer particles, you should catch any problem before it becomes catastrophic.

I allso don't believe these bikes are intended to go 100+ hours without preventative maintenance.

It's probably a combination of dodgy maintenance and crank quality.

Fair enough, there are plenty who will be a bit slack with their oil change / inspection regime, but there will also be many who are fastidious and still have crank problems.

In my case it's a 6 year old bike, that I bought secondhand so I expect to have to replace the crank.

But these 2010's with regularly reported problems (some at 30-40 hours) I don't believe is due to lack of care.

My experience with new MX bike owners has been that they change the oil / filter more often than the manufacturer recommends anyway.

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We have had several CRF250's at our place this past season ridden by a double digit pro and very fast B rider. All are mod bikes running high compression and Renegade fuel except one was set of for AMA B stock class. We have not had a crank show any signs of failure and more than 300 hours combined on the bikes.

I suspect many failures are due to poor maintenance. I have watched an seen many people replace air filters and just cringed at how they go about it. Very few people remove the airbox regularly to clean it and many don't seal the air boot.

Every crank we have replaced looked new as did the main bearings.

I don't buy this Honda crank issue that is all over this forum. If you change oil regularly and inspect oil filter for evidence of thrust washer particles, you should catch any problem before it becomes catastrophic.

I allso don't believe these bikes are intended to go 100+ hours without preventative maintenance.

How often do you change oil?

and clean the airbox? Do you remove the airbox altogether and wash it? or when it's still installed on the bike, just put a rag instead of the air filter and clean it up?

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How often do you change oil?

and clean the airbox? Do you remove the airbox altogether and wash it? or when it's still installed on the bike, just put a rag instead of the air filter and clean it up?

We change the oil after every ride, oil filter every other ride.

We wash the practice bikes after every ride, the race bikes after every moto or practice session. Air boxes are washed every time using twin air cover and pressure washer at low pressure with cleaner. Air boxes are removed and cleaned at least once per month on practice bikes and after every race on race bikes. Always inspect inside air boot and put rag in under twin air cover before pressure washing. After washing the air box is wiped clean before removing cover and then inside boot is inspected and wiped clean.

On the Hondas. if your air box is not clean when you change a filter you are probably knocking dirt into the air boot when you remove and install the filter. I would rather run a dirty air filter than change the filter with an air box that was not clean.

I also don’t think most people realize how hard it is to really get an air filter clean. Everyone should take a filter they have washed and bang it against your hand above a clean sheet of paper. You will be shocked at the amount of grit that comes out. I used to clean in gas or other chemical, then wash in warm soapy water twice and still grit came out after the filters were dry.

Ever since Ready Filters came out, we have used new filters every time we change the filter. We now use the Maxima pre oiled filters but spray again with Maxima filter spray and throw them away after one ride. At less than $7 each it is not worth the trouble of washing filters. Contact Maxima or Ready Filter and ask for sponsorship and they will help you out. At almost $4/gal for gas or buying filter cleaner and spending an hour or more fooling with cleaning the filter these filters are the best thing going. (note: we keep a couple of new regular filters on hand for mud races since these filters are not as thick as regular Twin Air or OEM).

I also wonder how accurate people are with the hours on a bike when they have a problem. Unless they have an hour meter on the bike they don’t really have a clue how much actual run time is on the motor. We install hour meters when bike is new and keep notes of the hours on the motor when we replace a part or do preventative maintenance.

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Exactly you said it, like i said we had very little hours on it, i own my own shop and am i full time bike mechanic/racer, weve done all the maintence we could and around 45hrs we saw copper in the oil filter so before it completly destroys anything were fixing it now, im just figuring we got a rare shitty bike outa the thousands produced in the US

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Exactly you said it, like i said we had very little hours on it, i own my own shop and am i full time bike mechanic/racer, weve done all the maintence we could and around 45hrs we saw copper in the oil filter so before it completly destroys anything were fixing it now, im just figuring we got a rare shitty bike outa the thousands produced in the US

I had the same luck with an 06. Everyone around me had no issues with theirs. What a lucky guy I am!

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We change the oil after every ride, oil filter every other ride.

Ever since Ready Filters came out, we have used new filters every time we change the filter. We now use the Maxima pre oiled filters but spray again with Maxima filter spray and throw them away after one ride. At less than $7 each it is not worth the trouble of washing filters. Contact Maxima or Ready Filter and ask for sponsorship and they will help you out. At almost $4/gal for gas or buying filter cleaner and spending an hour or more fooling with cleaning the filter these filters are the best thing going. (note: we keep a couple of new regular filters on hand for mud races since these filters are not as thick as regular Twin Air or OEM).

I also wonder how accurate people are with the hours on a bike when they have a problem. Unless they have an hour meter on the bike they don’t really have a clue how much actual run time is on the motor. We install hour meters when bike is new and keep notes of the hours on the motor when we replace a part or do preventative maintenance.

Throw away filters, that's an excellent idea!

Your spot on about the grit still being in the filter after cleaning.

I used turpentine, first bowl for dirty filter, 2nd bowl for the next clean, then used soapy water, but as you said grit seems to be ever preent no matter how careful you try to be.

Just ordered a set of maxima filters to test and if they perform I'll be doing the same.

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3 out of 4 -2010 crf250r at are local track have all had crank problem.One was owned by a honda motorcycle mechanic,other had 45 hours,my practice crf had 100 hours when i found this @pic, in my case i was luck to find out before any real damage happend,i'm at 45 hours on my race crf with no sign of damage

bikeoil.jpg

thrust.jpg

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