yz426 rebuild

the stator mod was a big deal because i decided to keep the lighting and AC circuit, and not deal with a battery. So the basic instructions for the mod is.

DO THIS MOD AT YOUR OWN RISK, IT WORKED GREAT FOR ME AND THE BIKE HAS TWO RIDES ON IT ALREADY. Make sure you dont just hook up your lights when you finish the mod, i blew up both my lights when i turned on the bike, you have to buy an ac regulator/rectifier so that it regulates the volts going to the lights. The wiring for the regulator will be my next post.

the pink wire is ground, and the yellow wire from the wr426 stator is the power!!!

1. Find the pink wire on the stator. (there is a pink wire and a red one)

i found it on the stator and also the 6 pin connector.

2. choose a place in-between the stator and the 6 pin connector, and cut the pink wire. (make sure there is enough pink wire still attached to the 6 pin connector so you can ground that wire)

3. you want to tape off the pink wire that goes back to the stator. ( you will not connect this to anything, just tape it off and insulate it.)

4. Ground the pink wire still attached to the 6 pin connector.

5. Celebrate and drink a beer!!!!

ok ill show the steps with pictures so no one is confused.

1. make sure its the pink wire, the red wire is a darker shade of pink

DSCN7311-1.jpg

2.

I made a slit in the protective covering halfway between the stator and the 6-pin connector, just make sure not to cut any wires if you do this. now just find the PINK WIRE, NOT THE RED WIRE and pull it out a bit with some needle nose then snip it in half.

0912111655.jpg

3.

Now just cut the covering down a bit, so you can tape the pink wire away from the other wires and tape up the pink wire that feeds back to the stator. make sure you tape up the pink wire going back to the stator and not the one going back to the 6 pin connector.

0912111657.jpg

4.

now just find a place to connect the pink wire (going to the 6-pin connector) to a ground on the frame. i used the right here. i had to extend the pink wire so that it would ground to the frame, so the black wire in the picture is basically the pink wire.

DSCN7313.jpg

Looking good my friend please do show how to install the regulator thingy :-) I will start sourcing the wr parts needed for this swap can I please get a list of all that's needed from the wr to do this. Also can this be done with the motor in the bike? I hope so because I really don't want to have to remove it.

ya all you need is a wr426 stator and flywheel. i found one that is the same year, but it took about a month for someone to have one up on ebay.

i used the stock nut and washer, used to secure the wr stator on my yz and then everything was plug and play after the stator mod.

1. wr426 stator

2. wr426 flywheel

3. ac regulator

4. i used 16 gauge wire.

5. misc. wire connectors and electrical tape

0913111224a.jpg

Thank you very much man you've been a huge help I'll let you know when I start on mine I hate not having a light when I'm riding

And i rode MOAB!!! and i surprisingly got around 85 miles on my tanks, i ran out of gas at about 86 miles on my first tank but i was riding the bike pretty hard and was doing some slow rocky stuff too. The bike was did just great and i had absolutely no problems with it. it started up every time i kicked it and it is a great trail bike. ill have to get a bigger tank so if anyone has one laying around let me know!!!

2011-10-01_12-42-04_360%255B1%255D.jpg

.....ill have to get a bigger tank so if anyone has one laying around let me know!!!

I have a 3.4 gallon IMS tank on my YZ426. I'll trade ya for a stock one.

Yes you can. However when you install the dc rectifier/ battery you will have to separate and isolate the dc floating ground from the ac chassis ground.

I currently run a wr stator and flywheel on a yz with a pure ac circuit powering a 100watt halogen. I love the reliability of it.

can you run any type of head light on ac? can a led tail light run off ac?

LED's will run on AC, sort of.

 

AC reverses polarity cyclically, which is why it's called alternating current.  Light Emitting Diodes are like all other diodes in the sense that they will conduct electricity only on one polarity.  When the positive and negative are correctly oriented, the diode is forward biased, current flows, and it lights.  Reverse the polarity, the diode is reverse biased, current is blocked, no light.

 

An LED connected to AC will glow only the half of the time that the current is forward biased, but if the LED glows visibly very quickly when forward biased, and the cyclic rate of the current is fairly fast, say 50Hz or over, the "flicker" isn't visible.  The frequency of current generated by a rotor with 6 magnets over a single coil is about 100 at 1000 RPM, so the light should appear steady.  "Switching" diodes constantly at such a high rate may or may not shorten their expected life, depending on the construction of the specific diode. 

is that the same for say an h4 headlight bulb? will it shorten the life of it or does that only apply to led's? or is it better off to run it dc with a battery?

Ooooo good question I want to know this also

i talked to a friend at work and he says ac will run any light fine with out shortening the life that only applys to led's on ac. i guess you can convert it to dc with a rectifyer but then you would also have to run a battery.

Running DC does not require a battery. A battery requires running DC.

I'm in the process of wiring my bike for this exact set up blbiker56 is running. I feel like a cave man when it comes to wiring and I'm confused how to

 

wire the regulator/rectifier into the system. I do not want to run a battery and the only detailed information I can find on this setup includes converting

 

to DC and installing a small battery in the airbox. I have literally everything needed for the conversion, but do I still need a

 

rectifier instead of the simple AC regulator I have? Thanks for any help

On 7/27/2011 at 6:01 PM, sid_125_04 said:

mine was negleticted like your guys also sat in a barn for 3 years, only did a few things to it to get it running strong. Speaking of tracks i'v been meaning to ask ppl that have these 426's can they still compete today if tuned well enough?

Also frame looks great black would look good or a dark gray like graphite?

My buddies son's 426 is beating newer 450s off the line. Including the fuel injected ones.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now