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Pmason718

2011 YZ450F Break-in ?

42 posts in this topic

My bike now has 4.5hrs on it (go ahead and laugh) and I was reading the manual and it states to change the oil after break-in but doesn't say how long break-in (in hours). I'm thinking that I may have went a lil over but not in danger. I'm was planning on changing it and cleaning the air filter this weekend.

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Break-in is the first hour or so of running the engine and your supposed to change the oil right after while its still hot. Just change it before your next ride. In the manual it specifically says 1 hour and 15 minutes and then change the oil after.

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i changed oil after first hour or so as well make sure you change oil filter , Air filter i

change/clean every ride , as well you should check all nuts and bolts for vibration loosening , tighten spokes etc . Its best to get a calender to write down what maintenance you have completed and therefore you can see what you may need to check or change each ride . Yamahas last forvever with the simple maintenace as long as its done regularly :thumbsup:

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I was reading the manual and it states to change the oil after break-in but doesn't say how long break-in (in hours).

Looks like on page 1-18 that the whole process is laid out pretty well. They say 1 hour and 25 minutes, plus "warm up". 4.5 hours on the break in oil is way long.

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Looks like on page 1-18 that the whole process is laid out pretty well. They say 1 hour and 25 minutes, plus "warm up". 4.5 hours on the break in oil is way long.

I did see that once I looked in there again. I guess I will head to the dealership to day for oil and filter. I already have cleaner and oil for filter. I'm going to check and tighten all bolts tomorrow but is there anyone in particlar that I should check, double check or be sure to check?

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Your ok. I went 5 hours on my engine oil during break in on my crf250r. My engine now has 105.2 hours and has not had any problems.

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If it were me I would replace the oil and filter, and change the oil after the next ride.

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Your ok. I went 5 hours on my engine oil during break in on my crf250r. My engine now has 105.2 hours and has not had any problems.

I know I'm ok its not my first motorcycle just didnt see the break-in duration at first glance. I will be changing it before my next ride

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today I will be picking up oil (10W-40) and a filter. I always just use regular oil (no syntheic or semi syntheic) the manual states I believe (dont have it in front of me right now) to change the oil every 12.5 hrs but I'm wondering how often are you guys changing yours and what oil are you using and also what oil (synthetic?)do you think came in the 2011

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I change mine every 9-11 hours but I'm using Amsoil. Some change it more frequently. Mineral oil doesnt last as long as synthetic. My theory is; If your gonna spend $7,000+ on a bike, why not spend the extra ~$7 for the recomended oil??

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I change mine every 9-11 hours but I'm using Amsoil. Some change it more frequently. Mineral oil doesnt last as long as synthetic. My theory is; If your gonna spend $7,000+ on a bike, why not spend the extra ~$7 for the recomended oil??

Money is not the issue I was just asking. Did a little more research and it looks as if 10W-50 Semi Syntheic may be the way to go, I'm still reading up on it now.

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Did a little more research and it looks as if 10W-50 Semi Syntheic may be the way to go, ...
I really doubt that.

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so you think I should just stay with the 10W-40 oil? not the semi or full synthetic, let me know I'm off to the dealer now

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Personally, I recommend either Amsoil MCF (10w-40) or Mobil 1 Racing 4T (10w-40) except where you expect the temperatures to stay above 95 degrees most of the time. In that case, either Amsoil MCV (20w-50) or Mobil 1 V-Twin (20w-50). All four of these are proven full synthetics that have demonstrated the ability to stay in their rated grade when used as a gearbox lube.

I would automatically be suspicious of any 10w-50 for technical reasons related to the viscosity index.

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Personally, I recommend either Amsoil MCF (10w-40) or Mobil 1 Racing 4T (10w-40) except where you expect the temperatures to stay above 95 degrees most of the time. In that case, either Amsoil MCV (20w-50) or Mobil 1 V-Twin (20w-50). All four of these are proven full synthetics that have demonstrated the ability to stay in their rated grade when used as a gearbox lube.

I would automatically be suspicious of any 10w-50 for technical reasons related to the viscosity index.

1 What is it that you don't like about Yamalube? whether it be there regular or synthetic oil

2 This is the first oil change for this bike, why full synthetic not regular (mineral)

3 If you only had access to Yamalube which one would you recommend

4 Is this the AMSOIL your talking about?

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mcf.aspx

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Yeah thats the stuff! I can't get into the technical specs like gray but if you use it your bike will thank you for it, trust me!

sI used regular yamalube for years before I swittched. Its ok but over time will build up sludge and longevity may decrease. It looses its viscosity rather quickly too. After switching I also get smoother shifting and longer clutch life.

Edited by tech24

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mobil 1 4T after every ride,new filter every other..i know its a little over kill but its only money..

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1 What is it that you don't like about Yamalube? whether it be there regular or synthetic oil

2 This is the first oil change for this bike, why full synthetic not regular (mineral)

3 If you only had access to Yamalube which one would you recommend

4 Is this the AMSOIL your talking about?

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mcf.aspx

  1. From one year to the next, you never know who makes it for them, for one thing. Full synthetic Yamalube is currently much improved from what it has been, but without seeing a lab test that shows it still a 50wt after a shear test cycle, I wouldn't trust it too long in a YZ. It's wide viscosity index (from 15 to 50 as opposed to a more conservative 20w-50) makes it suspect, IMO. Likewise, the 0w-40 is untrustworthy on its face absent some actual test data to show it will remain a 40 for any length of time. The Semi-Synthetic oils were also reformulated when the vendor was recently changed, but again, the viscosity index is quite wide, and makes it questionable.
  2. Full synthetics (real ones like Amsoil and Mobil 1) resist oxidization and thermal degradation better than petroleum based oils, to start with. Also the base stock has a naturally higher viscosity index even before the additives that improve it are introduced, which makes the oil less dependent on those additives for its viscosity, and therefore more durable. With petroleum, the oil must be refined in several steps to remove contaminants that are unwanted. Synthetics are built from scratch, and only what is wanted is put into them. Apart form that, all of the oils that happen to meet all of my performance criteria happen to be full synthetics, except for one.
  3. That would be a predicament I wouldn't want to deal with.
  4. Yes, that or the Mobil 1 Racing 4T.

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