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jonooffler

Clutch plates

13 posts in this topic

Hi all I have had a bit of clutch drag of late so I pulled the cover off every thing looks ok but the plates are within .001" the lower service limit.I did notice that the plates have three notches on the edges of one raised bit and one on another do these all need to line up. I only ask as mine were all over the place.

Any one have any views on replacement plates ? UK please .

WR450 2004

Thanks Jono

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check that your steel plates are still flat

They dish, which causes clutch drag, when they have been abused

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Jono, Do you have the manual? That'll let you know if there all supposed to line up or not. I'd look in mine and let you know, but it's over to the shop. Maniac

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Hi I have had a look in the manual but there is no note about the notches I was a bit worried that it would throw the balance out on it.

Having had a longer look at the plates i found that one is smaller ( inside dia is much bigger ) and only has half the friction area of the others. The steel plate look ok but I'm going to replace them at the same time time.

I will keep you all posted .

Jono

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That 'smaller' plate goes on first

It fits in conjunction with the two steel rings which fit inside its ID, between the clutch hub & the fiction plate itself

There is a specific orientation for those two steel rings

They are something to do with anti judder as the clutch engages

Many people chuck this smaller plate and the two steel ring's and run a 'normal' friction plate instead, without issue

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Thanks Guy, it odd but there is nothing in the workshop manual about the smaller plate and if you look for parts Yam only list one part for the plates.

The steel plates are non stock so I thought that maybe the clutch was an after market one.

I have bought new steel plates I just need to find out which way they go in smooth in or out.

It will be good to be back on the mud.

Jono

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Steel plate orientation don't matter, but I always fit them all the same way

the info about the smaller friction plate wasn't specific about the WR

Many bikes have this set up - I wasn't aware the WR didn't use it (if there is only one part no. for all the paltes then it would seem that it doesn't use it)

If you clutch has a smaller area friction plate, but no steel rings then something is amiss

Just checked the fiche at RonAyers.com and indeed the WR uses the same friction plate - there is no smaller area friction plate which normally fits first

but it seems there are two different types of steel plate

4 off of pt no. 1TA-16325-00-00 (these go on first)

3 off of pt no. 4X7-16325-00-00

Jono - seems like you have a 'unique' clutch set up!!!!

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Hi Guy well just got the parts and in the uk there is only one steel plate number 16325-00 The plates are soaking in oil as I type so when I can find teh time they are going back in .

Thanks for all your advice and I will keep you posted

Jono

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No need to soak steel plates in oil - that's only for friction plates

Which part number of steel plates is UK only as they both have 16325-00 in the part number

Are they 1TA or 4X7?

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Hi Guy yes i did mean the friction plates. the full part number is 5JG-16325-00. Fitted the plates and will ride out on Monday all feels ok but the neutral feels a bit hard to find might need to be given time to bed in .

Jono

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Hi all just thought I would bring you all up to speed and end the thread.

Well after new plates £38.00 new steels £28.00 there was still no improvement ,in fact I would say that it was even worse .

tried all adjustment but it was dragging, once warm it would stall and was getting very hot.

Looking at the clutch cable I noticed that the first section of the cable would compress when the lever was pulled in. So off down to my Yam dealer and £24.99 lighter it was fitted and YES it was no better .

I pulled the clutch down span the steel plates around pulled the push rod out but that looked ok. Did a test ride and still no better.

This week end I pulled the lever out to reroute the cable just in case and noticed that the stock lever had one or two file marks on it to aid the fitting .So off to my local dealer new lever £15.00. When I put them side by side both Yam made, but the new one was a totally different shape. Once fitted the clutch feels fine, loads of smooth travel and slack .

If I had looked at the lever I could have saved almost £100 and a lot of wasted riding time.

Still all sorted now .

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Hi all just thought I would bring you all up to speed and end the thread.

Well after new plates £38.00 new steels £28.00 there was still no improvement ,in fact I would say that it was even worse .

tried all adjustment but it was dragging, once warm it would stall and was getting very hot.

Looking at the clutch cable I noticed that the first section of the cable would compress when the lever was pulled in. So off down to my Yam dealer and £24.99 lighter it was fitted and YES it was no better .

I pulled the clutch down span the steel plates around pulled the push rod out but that looked ok. Did a test ride and still no better.

This week end I pulled the lever out to reroute the cable just in case and noticed that the stock lever had one or two file marks on it to aid the fitting .So off to my local dealer new lever £15.00. When I put them side by side both Yam made, but the new one was a totally different shape. Once fitted the clutch feels fine, loads of smooth travel and slack .

If I had looked at the lever I could have saved almost £100 and a lot of wasted riding time.

Still all sorted now .

There are different lever pull ratios for different clutch types (brands). You have to match them or you run into the problem you had.

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Hi mate don't I know it I bought the bike about 4 months ago so it must have been the last owner .As I said looking at it it was a stock Yam lever just not for a 2004 WR.

But now she is sorted it is running like a dream .

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