2011 yz450f exhaust recommendations ?

How about not making the assumption that we all know what you mean by "PCIII"?

or a "V"?

Power commander 3 or 5 sorry about that

I would get the GYTR power tuner. I just switched from the smooth map to the marmont and really like it.

The Power Commanders are more sophisticated versions of the GYT-R Tuner. They're also more expensive. Neither is strictly necessary, but having the ability to change the fuel map is no different than rejetting a carb. The tuner allows you to modify the timing map as well so the power delivery can be managed.

The Power Commanders do the same thing, but in finer increments.

The Power Commanders are more sophisticated versions of the GYT-R Tuner. They're also more expensive. Neither is strictly necessary, but having the ability to change the fuel map is no different than rejetting a carb. The tuner allows you to modify the timing map as well so the power delivery can be managed.

The Power Commanders do the same thing, but in finer increments.

Thank for explaining that. So I'm good with just a slip-on and if I like grab a tuner just to tool around with the settings. keep in mind I'm not racing just riding but looking to get much better at it

what happens if you put a full system on and not use the tuner?????

What happens on a carbed YZ450?

What happens when you don't automatically change every jet in the carb just because you put a pipe on? Sometimes, it turns out to be jetted pretty well to start with, sometimes it needs fudging.

The bikes are rarely jetted perfectly for every possible condition even with a stock pipe. The Tuner not only allows trimming the fuel curve in the same basic way that jetting a carb does, it also allows the rider to adjust the timing map to produce the kind of power delivery best suited to his tastes. You'd be surprised how many people fool with one map after another and end up back with the stock setup in the end.

What happens on a carbed YZ450?

What happens when you don't automatically change every jet in the carb just because you put a pipe on? Sometimes, it turns out to be jetted pretty well to start with, sometimes it needs fudging.

The bikes are rarely jetted perfectly for every possible condition even with a stock pipe. The Tuner not only allows trimming the fuel curve in the same basic way that jetting a carb does, it also allows the rider to adjust the timing map to produce the kind of power delivery best suited to his tastes. You'd be surprised how many people fool with one map after another and end up back with the stock setup in the end.

AMEN to that. Stock works best for me on my 2010....with Yosh pipe.
The Power Commanders are more sophisticated versions of the GYT-R Tuner. They're also more expensive. Neither is strictly necessary, but having the ability to change the fuel map is no different than rejetting a carb. The tuner allows you to modify the timing map as well so the power delivery can be managed.

The Power Commanders do the same thing, but in finer increments.

I just bought the gytr tuner what map would u recommend for a smoother ride or more rev on mid to top end?

I also heard to change out the stock filter to a k&n filter for 20% more fuel gain

15% more dirt in the engine is more like it.

15% more dirt in the engine is more like it.

LOL!:thumbsup:

15% more dirt in the engine is more like it.

lol:smirk:

I read 4 pages of remarks to this post and felt like maybe my 2 cents might be worth something.

I have a 2010 and my buddy has a 2010 and we went different routes. Here is what we have collectivelly come up with.

I have a Pro Circuit TI4R and he has a FMF TI. His is by far much loader than mine to start with (even before his K&N mod). I could tell a huge difference just from taking the stock off and putting mine on, his is about the same DB's as stock. The FMF kept the low end grunt to the bike, my Pro Curcuit lowered the DB's, mellowed out and put more in the high mid and top end. Funny because his is loader but tapped in third or forth in a long MX straight away, his bike getts pulled on about 2-3 bike lenghts all day long (same map by the way.)

Mapping: I have to agree with Gray on this one... the tuner was great at stock to take the off throttle bark out of it, but once the pipe went on and I rode more and more, I went from the "smooth" map, to the "hard pack" to a Marmont and finally ended up with MX Action "less hit" map that is almost almost stock. With the Pro Curcuit pipe installed, the movment of the powerband required I needed back the low end hit offered from the stock map but still pulls the bike much much better on high mid and top end.

I am a over 35 intemedite rider 185 lbs and have done a lot of back a forth testing between the two bikes. I ride mainly outdoor motocross in TX. My bike feels like a well put together motocrosser, his feels like you could take it straight to a Arenacross or very tight motocross track, still stronge and well put together just in different areas. Just depends on what you want and style of riding your doing.

mine vs his parts: pro curcuit exhaust, sag at 103mm, forks down 5m, pro Circuit lowering link, bars foward in the mounts, renthal low bend fat bars, CV4 hoses, ASV pro levers, pro taper throttle tube and Dunlop Geo Maxs and is the best bike I have ever riden. Only difference in my buddies bike is pipe, no lowering link, 5.0 fork springs, high bend Renthals and K&N filter mod. We both agree that mine turns better and out revs his for the type of tracks we ride.

Edited by txjeffro301
spelling
I read 4 pages of remarks to this post and felt like maybe my 2 cents might be worth something.

I have a 2010 and my buddy has a 2010 and we went different routes. Here is what we have collectivelly come up with.

I have a Pro Circuit TI4R and he has a FMF TI. His is by far much loader than mine to start with (even before his K&N mod). I could tell a huge difference just from taking the stock off and putting mine on, his is about the same DB's as stock. The FMF kept the low end grunt to the bike, my Pro Curcuit lowered the DB's, mellowed out and put more in the high mid and top end. Funny because his is loader but tapped in third or forth in a long MX straight away, his bike getts pulled on about 2-3 bike lenghts all day long (same map by the way.)

Mapping: I have to agree with Gray on this one... the tuner was great at stock to take the off throttle bark out of it, but once the pipe went on and I rode more and more, I went from the "smooth" map, to the "hard pack" to a Marmont and finally ended up with MX Action "less hit" map that is almost almost stock. With the Pro Curcuit pipe installed, the movment of the powerband required I needed back the low end hit offered from the stock map but still pulls the bike much much better on high mid and top end.

I am a over 35 intemedite rider 185 lbs and have done a lot of back a forth testing between the two bikes. I ride mainly outdoor motocross in TX. My bike feels like a well put together motocrosser, his feels like you could take it straight to a Arenacross or very tight motocross track, still stronge and well put together just in different areas. Just depends on what you want and style of riding your doing.

mine vs his parts: pro curcuit exhaust, sag at 103mm, forks down 5m, pro Circuit lowering link, bars foward in the mounts, renthal low bend fat bars, CV4 hoses, ASV pro levers, pro taper throttle tube and Dunlop Geo Maxs and is the best bike I have ever riden. Only difference in my buddies bike is pipe, no lowering link, 5.0 fork springs, high bend Renthals and K&N filter mod. We both agree that mine turns better and out revs his for the type of tracks we ride.

thanks for the write up, I have a couple of questions for you..

how much lower are the low bend bars compared to stock?

when you say you have the bars in the forward mount, does that mean closer to you or further out?

how does this combination feel compared to the stock settings?

thanks for your input..

The low bends are just a little taller than stock, can't even really feel the difference and just a 1 MM longer.

Bar mounts are further out towards the front of the bike, away from the rider.

The combination of the bars fowards, forks and the lowering link took the "wingle" or "knifing" in problem that the bike has stock when entering corners. If you are furmiliar with this wingle it will make your heart skip a beat the first time you feel it flying into a corner in third gear. That feeling HAD to go! It also settles the bike down in long straights. Before it felt busy, now it tracks straight and feels planted when on the throttle. Before on third gear drop offs in a middle of a straight, the back end would shift back and forth .... now I can just keep shifting into fourth and accelerate over and through the drop offs with the feeling of the rear end kicking out.

thanks for the input, I know exactly what you are talking about with the front end feeling like it could let go at corner entrance. I got the ride engineering link, sag is set at 104 and I raised the forks 4mm, swapped front tires and it is much more stable now and the twitchy feeling is gone.

I am currently running the marmont map with a DRD pipe and DT1 airfilter system, but it falls off too much at the top end so I am thinking of going back to the MXA hard pack map.. I really want some more top end..

I'm 5'10, 175 and have been thinking about getting some lower bars, it seems like the stock ones are kind of high to get my elbows up when cornering.

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