Oil change gone wrong! WR426F

Hey everyone, I'm Andrew and I'm new on the WR board :lol: I have some issues with a new bike and I really need guidance on if you don't mind a bit of reading.

I just picked up an 02 WR426F that looked like a smokin' deal for $2K. It has the Baja Designs enduro kit on it and I've been riding it to work and just loving it. Aside from some preventative maintenance and cleaning I had to jet the carb in to make it run good and so far it acts great :ride:

Anyway I went to change the oil and its been nothing but trouble. First off the screen in the frame looked very clean, but when I removed the oil filter cover I found all the bolts to be way over torqued and one (the bottom allen bolt with the shank) was cross threaded :lol: There were aluminum shavings everywhere in that bolt hole (which threads through an oil passage for some stupid reason) and my filter was covered with aluminum shavings.

DSC02656.jpg

I was able to clean out the filter housing and also get that bolt to work in and out without tearing up any more metal and it tightened down good enough to hold for this oil change.

Next up as I came back from a ride I noticed a small puddle of oil under the bike. Upon further inspection I noticed it was coming from the drain bolt. I didn't want to wail on it so I removed it and noticed it has been heli-coiled :lol:

Here's my questions.

1. How should I repair the 6m thread in the engine cover? From the front side it looks like there is just no room for a Time-Sert. A new $300 cover is out of the question.

2. Should I trust a Heli-coiled drain bolt? I'm going to try to wear this bike out this year and that means an enormous amount of oil changes. Could I pull the clutch cover and lay the bike on its side to drain the oil or should I just take my chances?

3. I used a bit of teflon tape to get the drain bolt to seal. It has a somewhat thick copper washer should this washer be aluminum instead?

I think that's it for now :lol: If you guy's have any more tips or advise please share. I'm a die hard 2T guy and this is my first Yamaha and hi performance 4T so I'm just getting my feet wet.

Andrew

I took the whole clutch cover off and used Heli Coil thread repair inserts in the engine case and clutch cover bolt holes. Helicoils are stainless steel and work very well if you are skilled at their installation. There are many on this forum that prefer Timesert's. I do not want to start that discussion since i have a complete set of Heli coil an have been using them with great success.

There is some great information here and you should do this while the clutch cover is off. Rather than press in that ball bearing I filled that drain hole with JB weld for the same effect then I installed the Heli coil.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=634724

The thread insert in the drain plug is what it is. over torquing the drain plug will do it every time. You will need to allow more time for the oil to drain now since the drain slot in the bottom of the case is blocked by the thread insert.

Once you have installed new thread inserts I highly recommend you install brand new oil filter cover bolts and new oil drain plug. If you inspect the bolts closely the threads will be stretched and deformed. Replace the bolts and use a torque wrench and you get many more oil changes.

While you have the clutch cover off this would be a great time to replace the water pump seals and shaft.:ride:

I took the whole clutch cover off and used Heli Coil thread repair inserts in the engine case and clutch cover bolt holes. Helicoils are stainless steel and work very well if you are skilled at their installation. There are many on this forum that prefer Timesert's. I do not want to start that discussion since i have a complete set of Heli coil an have been using them with great success.

There is some great information here and you should do this while the clutch cover is off. Rather than press in that ball bearing I filled that drain hole with JB weld for the same effect then I installed the Heli coil.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=634724

The thread insert in the drain plug is what it is. over torquing the drain plug will do it every time. You will need to allow more time for the oil to drain now since the drain slot in the bottom of the case is blocked by the thread insert.

Once you have installed new thread inserts I highly recommend you install brand new oil filter cover bolts and new oil drain plug. If you inspect the bolts closely the threads will be stretched and deformed. Replace the bolts and use a torque wrench and you get many more oil changes.

While you have the clutch cover off this would be a great time to replace the water pump seals and shaft.:ride:

I concur. I've used both types of inserts and just stuck with Heli coils as a personal preference, nothing really wrong with either.

Unless the drain coil isn't in all the way it won't cause a leak, they're just like threads, if it was tight then you have a sealing washer issue. As for the filter cover I agree you should be able to heli coil it, take the cover off so you can make sure that you drill in nice and straight. If in doubt take the cover to a machine shop, part in hand it probably won't cost much at all for them to install one for you. Again, I agree that now would be the time to install a water pump shaft and seals. Two birds with one stone!

Great help you guy's :ride: Thank you.

Is the Boyesen water pump upgrade the one I should be looking at? Or is the stocker good enough as long as its changed often? And is there an upgraded or better than stock seal?

Also is it normal for these things to run so hot? I'm glad I have that desert tank or I think my legs would melt off :lol:

Great help you guy's :ride: Thank you.

Is the Boyesen water pump upgrade the one I should be looking at? Or is the stocker good enough as long as its changed often? And is there an upgraded or better than stock seal?

Also is it normal for these things to run so hot? I'm glad I have that desert tank or I think my legs would melt off :lol:

I do not think the Boyesen water pump is worth the money or even actually effective at additional cooling. The WR 426 has the largest radiators. So if your running hot (how do you know and what is the temperature) the best way to cool it down is fresh clean coolant. New radiator cap since this is the pressure regulator of the system. and Proper jetting to counter any lean conditions.

If you are running a head pipe with no heat shield you may just be thinking (perceived) that it is running hot when it may not be.

I buy a radiator cap from the local auto parts for a 2000 Ford Ranger 3.0. Same cap as the dealer for 8 dollars. change it annually.

There are many expensive coolants avalible and many will have an opinion on them. I have not needed them if you need them have at it.

I'm what's known as "So slow I should be ashamed" and my WR doesn't get really hot until I get into some real technical single track so I'll say the factory water pump is good enough. I installed a little Spal fan on mine that I believe will keep the temps under control even with my slow tail.

Plus moving the water faster can actually make things worse, the water goes so fast that it either doesn't pick up heat from the engine or allow the radiator to exchange the heat.

Great info guys thanks again! :lol:

As for me thinking it runs hot here what I've come up with so far. Last week shortly after I bought it I noticed the entire header glowing bright red after work one night in the dark. After some searching here on TT I learned it is somewhat common but I installed a larger pilot just to be safe (P-45) and it helped it immensely as far as idling and not glowing. A few days later me being dumb I decided to ride my WR in what should have been light traffic. Well I was hung up at a busy traffic light and not moving in 80* weather.... No boil over or anything but man I wan nervous I could smell hot oil and antifreeze--dumb move :ride: Other than that it just puts off a ton of heat. The header is an FMF power bomb, and I'm really thinking about putting the stocker back on just to have the heat shield. Again its not boiling over or anything, maybe I'm just not used to it.... That said I think if I were to take this bike on the rocky mountain single track that I love it would melt into a puddle of aluminum LOL :lol: Jetting seems pretty good @ 45 pilot, 2 turns fuel screw, 4th clip and 160 main at 4500-5k feet.

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