Showa SFF Right Fork Spring Inner Assembly Removal

[Sun Devil]

After reviewing the manual there is no reference on how to remove the inner fork assemble that houses the fork spring. Therefore I approached it like any other twin chamber. Applied spring force and attempted to remove (loosen) what normally would be the rebound adjuster bolt. I have found that the bolt rotates in either direction with minimal force but does not tighten or loosen.

1. Most importantly, did I &%$#@! something up?

2. In order to dis-assemble that part does that require separating the tube from the axle lug? I am now guessing it is circlip or something keeps the two parts together.

Thanks in advanced!

[procacho]

Sun Devil

have the correct manual?

what you're asking this from page 119 to 132 page

[RSS - SPI Europe]

you need a tool to hold the ali tube - compress it to reveal the nut - hold this - undo the cap and you can then remove the spring.

you need a tool to hold the bottom then you can undo the nut - but there is no reason to remove this - although you need to tighten this back up!

mark.

[Sun Devil]

@Procacho,

Yes, I do have the correct manual and thank you for the page reference. That process however does not detail removing the inner cartridge.

@RSS,

Yeah, I do have a fork spring compressor tool and well versed in that service process.

I wrongly assumed that the inner cartridge on the fork was under spring pressure and therefore could be removed like the common open cartridge forks.

After reading your post I looked at the inside of the fork and noticed there is no spring seat on the cartridge. I found a PVC pipe with an OD that is slightly larger than the cartridge and fitted it on. I was able to hold it in place and unthread the remainder of the nut.

After inspecting it a tool can be made to fit the bolt head impression. I am going to start designing one soon.

The right side fork has lots of untapped potential.

[RSS - SPI Europe]

the forks do in general - i think a lot have given up with them as there hard to tune in, the very slightest change on the midvalve seems to make a big difference. they need to be stiffer - but soon as you do they become harsh and tire the rider out.

getting better results everytime. still the right hand fork is stock.

next step is to run more oil in the right leg and slighter softer mid than i have now!

its all fun though!