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Bobbed06

2003 YZF450 Purchase help needed

46 posts in this topic

I found a 2003 YZF450 that is supposed to be showroom and it looks it from the pics he sent me. I am going to look at it tomorrow. I have been out of the MX game since 03 and remember how bad I hated these bikes when I raced against them. I was a sponsored Kawasaki rider and those Yamahas had way more engine than a modded KX250. If the bike is in showroom condition how much is it worth? He is asking 2500.....I will be reading up here on this model for the rest of the evening but I hope you guys can help expedite any info on problems I should know about or anything specific to this model to check.

So far I have read about a problematic 3rd gear and some issues with a kickstart idler gear setup. Any help and purchasing advice appreciated...

I just want a good bike that I can race MX occasionally at local levels. Cheaply is the key here!!

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Well, even though nobody replied here I researched many postes regarding this machine and decided to go have a look at it. When I arrived at the fellas house it was a MINT condition machine with the original grips and OEM tires with almost full tread on the rear, with a perfect front tire. It was a one owner bike that sat for over 6 years due to the owner having back surgeries. He said it has less than 10 hours on it total.

It was only rode at the local MX tracks and he didnt jump any jumps with it, just rolled them. It had been 6 months since it was last started and it fired on the 5th kick. No smoke out of the exhaust , and purred like a kitten. The bike smelled of old fuel as it had not been drained. He added a gallon on top of the old fuel.

The bike ran smoothly at idle but the carb was in need of cleaning so it didnt run very good, but due to the low hrs my concerns of trans problems, and kicker issues were eased. I bought the bike and will be cleaning up the carb, installing a new plug, air filter, and gas....

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I have an 03 YZ450F as well. I love it. I don't ride track with it, just woods and desert. Mine will sit for weeks and then start off 1 or 2 kicks. It's more than fast enough for me. I do think you will enjoy it. Nice find by the way..

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Thanks Cbrewer :smirk:

Now I need a spark plug wrench (he didnt have it) a service manual (help here appreciated) and a trailer.

I am really excited not only at having another MX bike, but actually getting a like new one for realistic $$. The prices of new MX bikes are rediculous!! As a bonus the chassis fits me well and doesnt have that new bike awkwardness that I usually feel when I jump on a different or new bike.

It seems as the guys that own these older 426 and 03-05 YZF 4 speeds really like them. I have read of random 3rd gear failures and kicker gear issues. However I have read many posts about how bulletproof these bikes are providing several years of service before needing engine overhauls. Yamaha has always been cutting edge providing plenty of refinements on almost every year change.

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I still have my 03 that I bought new. I could never bring myself to sell it. It's been MXed, dirt tracked and on the ice.

They run forever if you change the oil and keep the airfilter clean.

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Thanks Grayracer I will be needing that manual info as of now. I am dissassembling the bike now to service all of the bearings, lube the chain, change the fuel, and oil, along with a carb cleaning.

1st. The air filter fell apart in my hands and had sucked into the carb probably clogging all of the air inlets so I need to remove the subframe and carb for cleaning.

Question.... Is the gasket that goes in beteween the muffler and header reusable?? Or should I leave the muffler hanging when I remove the subframe? I am concerned that the big heavy muffler could damage the header if I leave it hanging without the subframe.

2nd... The bottom of the engine was damp from oil and I believe its from the oil bolt. I thought I read somewhere about using copper washers on these bolts. Is this correct?

3rd.. Do I need to use synthetic oil or can I use Petroleum based oil like Castrol GTX if I change it every other ride? I dont have a decent shop close by so I was going to order oil filters in bulk. Is there any brands I shouldnt use? Or a recomended reusable/ cleanable style I should buy???

I dont wish to start an oil debate here as I want this thread to be what I use as I go through the bike. I thank you guys in advance for help as I am not going to ride this bike until the complete machine has been serviced and up to par.

:prof::smirk: :smirk:

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I dont have a photobucket account but I do have pics... I can email em to ya if you will post em.... PM me

The seller admitted that he should have bought a 250 but the dealer was all out of em so he bought the 450. He said the last time the bike was put away in 2010 that it ran great, however the filter was disintegrated and had fallen into the bottom of the airbox.

I also need to ge one of those air filter blockoffs so I can clean out the airbox....I forget the name of them?? Is there a air filter cage that does away with the backfire screen or should I leave the OEM unit in place?

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I think all filters use the backfire screen. Twin air makes the washing cover, I just ordered one for my bikes. You can also clean the airbox out using a rag.

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Yes I usually just hose down the airbox with WD40 and wipe it out. I am gonna order some air filters tonight from ebay..

Is there anything wrong with these EMGO oil filters?? Can I get oil filters at the auto parts store for my YZF??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-YZ450F-YZ-YZF-450-3-PACK-OIL-FILTER-2003-2011-/380336704063?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item588dd58a3f

I used to be able to get FRAM filters for my 400 ex at autozone or advance.

I would like to know whats a safe carb cleaner to use?? I have read about the FCR carb being sensitive to certain carb cleaners. I still need to know if the muffler to header gasket is reusable so I can remove the subframe to ease carb cleaning and suspension service.

Edited by Bobbed06
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I don't know what to tell you about the filters, I use no-toil, there on ebay. The exhaust gasket you are referring to should be reusable.

To service the carb, I usually remove the gas tank, then the head stay mount, because the cable strattle each side, then I loosen the intake boot and the head boot. You can usually get enough play out of the intake to get the carb out without having to remove the subframe.

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I dont have a photobucket account but I do have pics... I can email em to ya if you will post em....

Here are the pics you have requested. These are pics of Bobbed06's new 2003 yz450f.

bikepics-2209133-full.jpg

bikepics-2209132-full.jpg

bikepics-2209134-full.jpg

bikepics-2209135-full.jpg

bikepics-2209136-full.jpg

I'll be the first to say it definitely looks brand new. I find it so amazing that there are so many people out there that buy brand new bikes, ride em once, then let em sit for years.

You found yourself a keeper:thumbsup:

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1st. The air filter fell apart in my hands and had sucked into the carb probably clogging all of the air inlets so I need to remove the subframe and carb for cleaning.
Removing the subframe makes it easier to service the linkage, but it's not necessary to remove it to remove the carb.
Is the gasket that goes in beteween the muffler and header reusable?? Or should I leave the muffler hanging when I remove the subframe? I am concerned that the big heavy muffler could damage the header if I leave it hanging without the subframe.
That gasket is usually reusable.
The bottom of the engine was damp from oil and I believe its from the oil bolt. I thought I read somewhere about using copper washers on these bolts. Is this correct?
Yes. Read the oil change procedure:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8765660#post8765660

Do I need to use synthetic oil or can I use Petroleum based oil like Castrol GTX if I change it every other ride? I dont have a decent shop close by so I was going to order oil filters in bulk. Is there any brands I shouldnt use? Or a recomended reusable/ cleanable style I should buy???
Synthetic is not the issue. Survivability when used as a gearbox oil is. And unfortunately, just being labeled as a motorcycle engine oil doesn't mean it's really capable of holding up over time in a YZ450. If you don't step up and use a good, premium MC oil like Amsoil MCF, Mobil 1 Racing 4T, or another top tier product, then change it at least every second ride day. If you buy Rotella or some other by-the-gallon cheapie at Wal-Mart, change it every two hours.

I use only Scotts oil filters. In the last 8 years, I've bought 4 of them for 4 motorcycles.

Read: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4676297#post4676297

Is there a air filter cage that does away with the backfire screen or should I leave the OEM unit in place?
Yes, the YZ250 two stroke cage will do that. But the filters you then need to use (Twin-Air flame proof) are expensive, and filter oil is often flammable anyway. Besides, there is no performance advantage in removing it from your bike.
I would like to know whats a safe carb cleaner to use?? I have read about the FCR carb being sensitive to certain carb cleaners.

Berryman's B12 is my favorite.

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OK Thanks alot guys, for posting my pics and useful info.

I found Berrymans B12 at Advance Auto and will snag a can today. :smirk:

I will be using the stock air filter cage as I am sure I wont be needing any more power than this beast already offers.

I figured I could removove the carb without removing the subframe, however I need to service the shock mounting points anyway so I will be removing the subframe. I hope the gasket is reusable for the muffler.

It seems the Scotts filter is a great oil filter but I am gonna probably go with a paper unit for now just to get me up and running. May I have a link to where I can snag a Scotts filter?

I will be looking around the local vendors for one of the recommended synthetic oils. I will be changing the oil quite frequently, but if I can get 10 hours from synthetic oil than that eases the maintainance schedule enough to warrant the cost for me. I know I can find the Mobil 1 V Twin locally as I have used that in my cruiser.

It does amaze me that people will buy a MX bike and leave it sit for 8 years but its understandable as they are intimidating machines for many people. My buddy bought a new 02 RM 250 and rode it twice and sold it in 03 for 2400 bux!! He went riding MX with us and came back to the truck and said this isnt what he expected and we were crazy :smirk: and never came riding with us again.....I should have bought that one too.

The bike is gonna take some time to cleanup as the guy lived right on the beach so the salt is growing on it. The rims, engine cases, fork legs upper and lower, and some other bits are gonna need some polishing/cleaning. I tested many pieces last nite and they all came out nicely so I am ok with that. Some bolts will need replacing but only a few.

May I have a link to online microfiche so that I can make a list of OEM bolts I will be needing?

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May I have a link to where I can snag a Scotts filter?

Call the TT Store, or order direct from Scotts

I know I can find the Mobil 1 V Twin locally as I have used that in my cruiser.
V-twin is 20w-50, which is unnecessarily heavy unless the temperatures stay above 90 most of your ride days. Most places that carry V-twin will carry Racing 4T (10w-40) as well. They should be right next to each other. Those two (and specifically those two) Mobil 1 oils are at the top level of oils available, and they're priced reasonably well by comparison. You should be able to get 7-10 hours use from them, depending on how you ride. Kragen/O'Rielly usually carries both.
May I have a link to online microfiche so that I can make a list of OEM bolts I will be needing?

TT OEM Parts

Yamaha Parts Fiche

A note about bolts and the parts fiche: Most of the time, the part number tells you what the thread size and length is. For example: The upper triple clamp pinch bolt on your bike is PN 95027-08040-00. Looking at the second set of numbers (in bold), you can tell that it's an 8mm thread, 40mm long. They are almost all ISO threads, so any M8x1.25x40 metric bolt would work in a "pinch", if you'll pardon me. The head size and finish would be different if not the OEM bolt from Yamaha , of course, and that can sometimes be an issue, but it's handy info at times.

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I will look for the Mobil 4t racing, however it is always above 90 here on the Southeastern coast. :smirk:

Thank you for the info for OEM items. I didnt realize I can order all of the OEM stuff here on TT as well as aftermarket! I will start getting a list together. :smirk:

I am off to the auto parts store to grab some of the carb cleaner and some oil.. I still need to buy a hitch and a trailer so I wont be able to ride much until I get these things anyway. For now I am concentrating on the carb, overall cleanup, and greasing all of the bearings.

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OK I picked up some Berrymans B12 carb cleaner, some Mobil 1 10w40 Racing 4T, some cleaning supplies, and a service manual. Thanks for that Gray :smirk:

I still need some copper washers for my oil bolts, oil filter , and air filters,

Is there a Motion Pro or any aftermarket spark plug wrench that you guys like for this bike??

Does anybody have the FRAM oil filter part number for a 2003 YZF 450? Advance auto has filters listed for many bikes but not this one.

I am gonna be pulling off the subframe and cleaning the carb tonight, and may start cleaning the linkage bearings also. Thanks for the direction and assistance guys. Much appreciated :smirk:

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The Motion Pro wrench is a neat tool, actually. (#15-8239 on this page: http://shop.thumpertalk.com/catalogs/Tucker_Rocky_Offroad_2009/default.asp?p=908 )

For one thing, you can actually get it into the plug well with the stock tank on the bike (if you're patient), and the swivel extension that comes with it can be turned with a 3/8 square drive, a 9/16" or 14mm wrench, or a straight bar like a screwdriver blade. The socket is rubber lined and made so that you can always pull the socket off the plug with the extension instead of having the extension leave the socket stuck on the plug. It's also made so that you can stick the end of the socket in the hollow right end of your front axle, stick a screwdriver through the cross hole in the socket, and hold the axle from turning. Actually very cool. I've had one in my tool bag for several years.

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