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chuckp

WR450 Resistor

18 posts in this topic

Hello, I put a YZ number plate on my 09 WR450 when rocks blew through the plastics in the headlamp. I took the computer out and headlamp and mounted the ignition switch so its out of the way. I've been on a couple runs and no problems, but I've been doing some searching and saw there might be a resistor to plug in to keep from frying the regulator. Any truth to this? The resistor yamaha sells looks like its for a quad to keep the battery from discharging?? Didn't seem like the same problem as frying a regulator. Thanks

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Not needed. I ran my '04 for years without the headlight. I recently re-installed it and it worked fine.

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Not that I'm doubting...but I am a newbie who uses the search function :thumbsup:

Found this post.. a long one but....

Old 09-15-2010, 08:14 AM

tribalbc

TT Titanium Member

Originally Posted by PBDBLUE

The stock magneto setup uses the magneto that powers the headlight to power the cdi so you don't need the battery or DC for the bike to run. It won't estart but it will run. .

tribalbc

TT Titanium Member

Well from personal experience I have twice had a dead battery on my bike and it will start and run, but not make any power or go over 4500rpm. You can barely limp her home over flat ground. From what I understand, the CDI needs some power from the battery.

----------------------------

I just want to be sure and not get stuck in the desert. I took off the headlamp and speedo and taped off the connectors. Ignition and taillamp still work. I won't have any battery/regulator/running problems? I get mixed search results on the regulator burning up.

Thanks again

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Not that I'm doubting...but I am a newbie who uses the search function :thumbsup:

Found this post.. a long one but....

Old 09-15-2010, 08:14 AM

tribalbc

TT Titanium Member

Originally Posted by PBDBLUE

The stock magneto setup uses the magneto that powers the headlight to power the cdi so you don't need the battery or DC for the bike to run. It won't estart but it will run. .

tribalbc

TT Titanium Member

Well from personal experience I have twice had a dead battery on my bike and it will start and run, but not make any power or go over 4500rpm. You can barely limp her home over flat ground. From what I understand, the CDI needs some power from the battery.

----------------------------

I just want to be sure and not get stuck in the desert. I took off the headlamp and speedo and taped off the connectors. Ignition and taillamp still work. I won't have any battery/regulator/running problems? I get mixed search results on the regulator burning up.

Thanks again

Well I'll clarify a couple things here....

Yes, my previous post states that the bike needs a battery to run properly-true.

As far as the regulator, mines cooked, and bike still runs great. I run YZ # plate and no tailight. Is that why my regulator is cooked? Good question.

When I disconected my headlight I didn't secure the wires away well enough behind the # plate and they frayed. I assumed a short cooked my reg as it just blows bulbs now. But it could be the excess power, though I've never heard of this before......

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So, I had my first ever component failure with a WR: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=977401&highlight=regulator

I route my headlight AC power through an aftermarket switch that allows me to use both beams on the headlight. For the headlight it has an off/high/low beam position. While I always try and run with my headlight on, it's really easy to accidently knock the switch to the off position, and this happens a lot. I often wonder if my R/R failure had anything to do with the fact that in the off position the R/R is not "loaded", leading to its premature death.

Any EE's on this board care to chime in?

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Doubt it...Im running the Trail Tech 100 watt stator and unless Im dual sporting, the headlight is off. Its not un common to run a race or play ride all weekend with no headlight etc.

Ive had ZERO issues :thumbsup:

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Doubt it...Im running the Trail Tech 100 watt stator and unless Im dual sporting, the headlight is off. Its not un common to run a race or play ride all weekend with no headlight etc.

Ive had ZERO issues :thumbsup:

Yeah, but your circuit is now quite different with the "all DC mod". Your R/R is now only taking care of the battery, whereas with the stock case it's doing double duty regulating both the AC and DC side of things.

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Doubt it...Im running the Trail Tech 100 watt stator and unless Im dual sporting, the headlight is off. Its not un common to run a race or play ride all weekend with no headlight etc.

Ive had ZERO issues :thumbsup:

I still have to send my TT stator back. I bought one with reg to replace my reg this year and run better lighting. Well when I rebuilt my motor it wouldn't start for the life of me. Plenty of spark but had exhausted all other avenues. So I put the stock stator back in and she fired right up first kick. Timing was off on the pickup :confused:

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Well I'll clarify a couple things here....

Yes, my previous post states that the bike needs a battery to run properly-true.

As far as the regulator, mines cooked, and bike still runs great. I run YZ # plate and no tailight. Is that why my regulator is cooked? Good question.

When I disconected my headlight I didn't secure the wires away well enough behind the # plate and they frayed. I assumed a short cooked my reg as it just blows bulbs now. But it could be the excess power, though I've never heard of this before......

Ok, I'm not concerned with running a headlamp in the future, but do you know if the batt will still be chargeing with no headlamp or speedo? Also on a long ride or weekend, when the batt eventually discharges, will the bike not run? or not run well if kickstarted?

I'm not interested in running anything aftermarket, just the stock ignition switch.

Thanks again

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Hello, I put a YZ number plate on my 09 WR450 when rocks blew through the plastics in the headlamp. I took the computer out and headlamp and mounted the ignition switch so its out of the way. I've been on a couple runs and no problems, but I've been doing some searching and saw there might be a resistor to plug in to keep from frying the regulator. Any truth to this? The resistor yamaha sells looks like its for a quad to keep the battery from discharging?? Didn't seem like the same problem as frying a regulator. Thanks

Could you post some pics of what you have done? I am looking at different ideas for mounting the on/off switch and how to mount the numberplate.

The one that I have seen pics of (http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/12033405_b3F6y#367866325_MZgbi) I don't really like the mounting for the switch.

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My bike is in AZ. I'm in SoCal. I'm making a trip out there next week and will snap some photos of it.

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My bike is in AZ. I'm in SoCal. I'm making a trip out there next week and will snap some photos of it.

Thanks. I still need to order the spacer to replace the speedo, but I don't want to get ahead of myself and have no way to mount the switch.

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Ok, I'm not concerned with running a headlamp in the future, but do you know if the batt will still be chargeing with no headlamp or speedo? Also on a long ride or weekend, when the batt eventually discharges, will the bike not run? or not run well if kickstarted?

I'm not interested in running anything aftermarket, just the stock ignition switch.

Thanks again

any thoughts?

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I fried my regulator running the bike with the head light disconnected and a dead battery, also, with a dead battery (11v) and the head light connected, it's a lot harder to kick start and tends to stall more, but it has no problem going above 4500 rpm....

Conclusion, with my fried regulator, the 11v battery and the headlight off, I have no problems at all...

Hope it helps, sorry for the poor english

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any thoughts?

I would like to mount it on top of the triple clamp using the same backet that I will make to hold the top of the numberplate, but with an offset bracket so it is close to the bar mounts. Haven't thought it out too much yet.

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Well I'll clarify a couple things here....

Yes, my previous post states that the bike needs a battery to run properly-true.

As far as the regulator, mines cooked, and bike still runs great. I run YZ # plate and no tailight. Is that why my regulator is cooked? Good question.

When I disconected my headlight I didn't secure the wires away well enough behind the # plate and they frayed. I assumed a short cooked my reg as it just blows bulbs now. But it could be the excess power, though I've never heard of this before......

Was this on a 2007 and did it have the electronic odometer/speedo? Or was this an older one?

Thanks

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Was this on a 2007 and did it have the electronic odometer/speedo? Or was this an older one?

Thanks

Yes an 07 with electronic odo/ speedo

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