fair price to have the valve clearance checked

I have an '08 yz 450f. what is a fair price to have the valves checked for clearance? Also, what should it cost to adjust them if needed?

Thanks.

If you bring your clean bike to a shop to check the valves, I'd expect them to charge you an hour's worth of labour. So depending on their rate you could be looking at $60 to $100.

If your valves are out of spec and need to be adjusted the price will increase significantly, again depending on what they charge per hour. I'd guess that most shops would charge 2.0 to 2.5 hours for that ($120 to $150 plus the cost of shims & some shop supplies) ? Keep in mind, that's a guess...

It's quite easy to check your vavles yourself, if you're willing to learn, are willing to take your time and have the patience for it. Checking the valves doesn't require you to do much disassembling at all.

To check your valves (a rough guide)

Gas tank/shrouds off

It's easier to just remove upper motor mounts (5 bolts)

Valve cover off (takes a bit of wiggling to get it off, I pull mine out the right side of the bike)

Remove spark plug

Put a long zip-tie down the spark plug hole so you can see when your piston is at top dead center (TDC)

Push on the kickstart lever until the zip-tie is as high as it gets, if it starts to drop back into the plug hole you've gone past TDC. You can usually rotate the camshaft sprockets by hand at that point to fine tune to TDC.

Your intake and exhaust cam lobes should be pointing to 10 & 2 (picture what a clock looks like).

Slide your 0.004 feeler between the intake bucket(s) and cam, work your way up to 0.006, I had to trim my feeler (narrower) with a pair of scissors to get it to fit into the center and left valve.

If you're all in spec, then there's no need to re-shim. Reverse the process to get your bike back together.

Check these videos out, it's an older bike than yours but the process is identical.

Thanks. I actually tried to do this. got as far a taking the valve covers off. However, I stopped when I realived you needeed you needed a giant allen wrench, or some sort of special wrench (that I didn't have) to undo the cap where you can make an adjustment to get crank the piston top dead center. I probaly should have looked at this first. Anyway, the zip tie seems like a good technique. Also, there seemed to be some sort of sealant that was coming off when I took the valve cover off. I wasn't sure what this was either.

Thanks. I actually tried to do this. got as far a taking the valve covers off. However, I stopped when I realived you needeed you needed a giant allen wrench, or some sort of special wrench (that I didn't have) to undo the cap where you can make an adjustment to get crank the piston top dead center. I probaly should have looked at this first. Anyway, the zip tie seems like a good technique. Also, there seemed to be some sort of sealant that was coming off when I took the valve cover off. I wasn't sure what this was either.

You don't have to take that inspection cap (giant allen wrench) off, I never do. The zip-tie technique, with the cams pointing opposite each other is all you need to do when you're checking clearance.

Use the kick start lever to get close to TDC, then fine tune by turning the cam sprockets by hand (a pair of gloves helps).

That sealant is actually a rubber gasket, so long as you're somewhat gentle with it you won't wreck it. It's designed to be removed & re-used.

Thanks. The sealent was actually coming off of the gasket. It was a very thin bead that was coming off of the gasket on the timing belt side of the cover . Looked like there was a small groove in the gasket for this bead of sealant. I cleaned it off. It was breaking away in small pieces as I took it off. Is this something that is just done at the factory? This is the firt time the valve cover has been off.

I wouldn't worry about the small amount of silicone/sealant, I just checked my valves a week or two ago (75 hours on my bike, haven't budged) and had the rubber gasket right out. I didn't really notice any sealant on mine, if there was a small amount on it.. it's not there anymore.

I guess some people might use some silicone or sealant to help keep the rubber gasket in place when you're putting the valve cover back on ? I removed the rubber gasket from the valve cover itself and when I was ready to re-assemble I placed the gasket on the cyl head, got the valve cover to the point where I wanted to place it on the gasket and made sure the gasket was all lined up. Then I lowered the valve cover on to the gasket, make sure you inspect it as much as you can to make sure the gasket has seated in the cover properly.

Edited by crf450319
I have an '08 yz 450f. what is a fair price to have the valves checked for clearance? Also, what should it cost to adjust them if needed?

Thanks.

09 with over 400 hrs and haven't checked valves . Starts first or second kick. These are not Hondas, they will run a long time. Just go out and ride.

09 with over 400 hrs and haven't checked valves . Starts first or second kick. These are not Hondas, they will run a long time. Just go out and ride.

That's good advice, forget about checking anything.. just go ride. No one ever has problems with their yz450f :thumbsup:

I can tell you exactly what would have happened to my '09 if I'd have left the original cam chain in it, pulled it out at 60 hours and had 6 or 7 links that were binding. But you're right, I should have just left it in there and gone riding right ?

Thanks again for the advise. I just checked the clearance on the valves and wanted to see what your thoughts were. I was able to get the feeler gauge in and pull it back and forth. Both side were to the low end of the spec, and I had a fair amount of friction when moving the feeler gauge back and forth, I had to push a little to get the feeler gauge in, then it was a snug feeling as I moved it back and forth. I'm hoping this is okay. Also, FYI, I discovered that you can use the back end of the spark plug wrench to undo the large allen bolt. I put everything back together ( I did as you suggested and just put the rubber seal back without any sealant. Must be something they do at the factory) and the bike fired right up. Let me know what your thoughs are. I hoping it's good to go with this type of clearance.

Great ! So what did you get for clearance ? I've heard that it's not such a bad thing to be at the tighter end of the spec - closer to 0.004 as you don't get as much "slap" when they close.

I checked mine just over 7 hours of runtime ago and got 0.0045 for the three intakes, my 0.004 feeler went in very easy but the 0.005 feeler was on the tight side. So I compromise and call it 0.0045. Both of my exhaust valves were at 0.0085".

We just need to know what thickness feeler you used ? If you got a 0.004" to 0.006" feeler in there (on the intakes) then you're good, if you had to use a smaller (0.003")feeler then you'll need to look at re-shimming.

.

So explain how I am able to get 400 hrs and you only get 60. I have an idea but I would like to hear yours.

.

So explain how I am able to get 400 hrs and you only get 60. I have an idea but I would like to hear yours.

It's probably the sh*t oil I'm running, Amsoil MCF.. don't know if you've heard of it ? I mean, it only surpasses just about every spec out there for motorcycle specific oil.. it's probably that crap !

Or maybe it's that I really don't know how to ride, I've only road-raced for 7 years and ridden MX for 13 years and I haven't figured out why my bike makes this weird popping sound when I'm going 50 mph in 2nd gear ?

But, what I am going to do for sure is adopt your type of maintenance schedule.. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" "ignorance is bliss", or "I take a wild guess at how many hours are on my kids/nephews bike because I don't have an hour meter on it, then I made rediculous claims about maintenance and imply that others simply don't know what they're doing"

That's what I'm going to do from now on ! :thumbsup::confused:

I got .004 in on the three intake valves, and .008 on the two exhuast valves. I had to push a little harder to get the feeler gauge in on the exhuast valves than I had to on the intake valves. That was really my big concern.

.

So explain how I am able to get 400 hrs and you only get 60. I have an idea but I would like to hear yours.

Or, maybe it's my shoddy maintenance schedule ? :

April/10 Greased linkage, swingarm and steering head bearings.

Ran bike @ 40% for ten minutes, changed oil. April 8/10

Ran bike @ 80% for twenty five min. changed oil and filter April 8/10

Engine broken in.

Engine oil/filter change @ 2.5 hours - Amsoil MCF(2.1 hours)

Air filter cleaned @ 2.5 hours

EBC 280mm front brake rotor on @ 2.5 hours

April 24/10 Engine oil/filter changed @ 7.5 hours - Amsoil MCF (5 hrs)

April 24/10 Air filter cleaned @ 7.5 hours

April 30/10 Fork oil (both chambers) and shock fluid replaced @ 10.2 hours

May 1/10 Air filter cleaned @ 10.2 hours

New Bridgestone M604 Int. rear tire on @ 10.2 hours.

May 11/10 Engine oil/filter changed @14.1 hours - Asmoil MCF (6.6 hrs)

May 11/10 Throttle cleaned & cables lubed, clutch cable lubed.

May 15/10 Air filter cleaned @ 15.3 hours

May 15/10 Throttle & clutch cables lubed @15.3 hours

May 16/10 raced in Morden - 1.4 hours / 16.7 hours total

May 16/10 EBC rotor bent - OEM rotor on @ 15.7 hours

Filter skin removed @17.3 hours

June 2/10 Air filter cleaned @ 19.3 hours - filter skin on

June 18/10 New fork & shock springs, replaced outer chamber oil in forks @ 20.3 hours

June 21/10 Clutch cable lubed, frnt wheel bearings greased, filter skin pulled off 22.3 hrs

June 21/10 Engine oil/filter changed @ 20.3 hours - Amsoil MCF (6.2 hrs)

June 25/10 Air filter cleaned @23.9 hours - filter skin on

June 25/10 Michelin HP4 tire on @ 23.9 hours (13.7 hrs on Bridgestone)

June 26/10 raced in Morden - 1.6 hours / 25.5 hours total

June 18/10 New fork & shock springs, replaced outer chamber oil in forks @ 20.3 hours

June 21/10 Clutch cable lubed, frnt wheel bearings greased, filter skin pulled off 22.3 hrs

June 21/10 Engine oil/filter changed @ 20.3 hours - Amsoil MCF (6.2 hrs)

June 25/10 Air filter cleaned @23.9 hours - filter skin on

June 25/10 Michelin HP4 tire on @ 23.9 hours (13.7 hrs on Bridgestone)

June 26/10 raced in Morden - 1.6 hours / 25.5 hours total

July 4/05 Michelin HP4 (1.6) off @ 25.5 hrs, Bridgestone 604 on (13.7)

July 6/10 OEM rotor off, EBC rotor back on @ 26.4 hours

July 6/10 Filter skin off

July 8/10 Linkage bearings cleaned/re-greased 27.7 hours

July 8/10 Pro Circuit can re-packed 27.7 hours

July 9/10 Filter skin off 27.7 hours

July 9/10 Engine oil/filter changed @ 27.9 hours Amsoil MCF (7.6 hrs)

July 10/10 Bridgestone M604 (17.3 hrs) off & Michelin HP4 (1.6 hrs) on @ 29.1 hours

July 10/10 Dunlop D745 Int. front tire off, new Dunlop D739 on @ 29.1 hours

July 10/10 Air filter cleaned @ 29.1 hours - filter skin on

July 11/10 Raced in Pilot Mound - 1.7 hours / 30.8 hours total

July 21/10 Fork oil (both chambers) and shock fluid replaced @ 30.8hrs, 10.5 hours on oil in outer chambers, 20.6 hours on upper cartridge and shock oil.

July 25/10 Air filter cleaned @ 30.8 hours

August 4/10 Air filter cleaned @ 33.3 hours - filter skin on

August 4/10 Clutch cable lubed @ 33.3 hours

August 5/10 Michelin HP4 off (7 hours) and Bridgestone M604 (17.3) on at 34.5 hours

August 6/10 Changed oil Amsoil MCF @ 35.1 hours (7.2 hours)

August 12/10 Removed filter skin @ 35.4 hours

August 12/10 Works Connection skid plate installed, tightened fasteners on rad cages

August 13/10 Right intake 0.0055 Mid intake 0.0045 Left intake 0.0045 Both ex. 0.0085 - 36.3 hours

August 14/10 Cleaned carb. & lubed throttle & clutch cables. 36.3 hours

August 14/10 Cleaned air filter, filter skin on 36.3 hours

August 20/10 Bridgestone M604 off (21.3 hours) and new Dunlop D745 on @ 38.5 hours

August 25/10 Added 10ml fork oil per leg & lubed clutch cable @ 38.5 hours

August 28/10 Engine oil/filter changed @ 38.6 hours (3.5 hours) Amsoil MCF Syn.

August 29/10 Removed filter skin @ 40.5 hours

Sept 12/10 Cleaned air filter @ 42.1 hours

Sept 14/10 Engine oil/filter changed @ 45.7 hours (7.1 hours) Amsoil MCF

Sept 25/10 Cleaned air filter @ 48.2 hours

Sept 25/10 Lubed clutch cable

Sept 25/10 Dunlop D745 rear off (9.7 hours) and Bridgesone M604 on

Sept 26/10 Raced in Larimore ND 0.8 hours

Sept 26/10 Bridgestone M604 off (0.8 hours) and Dunlop D745 (9.7 hours) back on @ 49 hours.

Sept 30/10 Fork oil (both chambers) and shock fluid replaced @ 50.5 hours (19.7 hrs)

Sept 30/10 Cleaned air filter @ 50.5 hours

Oct 1/10 Linkage bearings cleaned/re-greased 50.5 hours (22.8 hours between)

Oct 7/10 Engine oil/filter changed @ 52.9 hours (7 hours) Amsoil MCF

Oct 7/10 Cleaned air filter @ 52.9 hours - filter skin on

Oct 16/10 Removed filter skin @ 57.3 hours

Oct 16/10 Dunlop D745 off (18 hours) and Bridgestone M604 (0.8 hours) on @ 57.3 hrs

Oct 17/10 Cleaned air filter @ 58.9 hours - filter skin on

Oct 22/10 Filter skin off @ 60.9 hours

Oct 22/10 Engine oil/filter changed @ 60.9 hours (8 hours) Amsoil MCF

Oct 22/10 New NGK spark plug @ 60.9 hours

Oct 22/10 New OEM cam chain @ 60.9 hours

Oct 22/10 Lubed clutch cable and new EBC clutch springs @ 60.9 hours

Oct 22/10 63.0 hours

Oct 23/10 Cleaned air filter @ 63.0 hours - filter skin on

2011

Jan 20/11 New Regina ORN6 chain and Dirt Works front sprocket @ 65.3 hours

Jan 20/11 Used Dunlop D739 front tire on (10 hours), Dunlop D739 front off (36.2 hours)

Jan 20/11 Engine oil/filter changed @ 65.3 hours (4.4 hours) Amsoil MCF

Jan 20/11 Took filter skin off and cleaned - filter itself was still clean 65.3 hours

Jan 20/11 Lubed clutch and throttle cables 65.3 hours

Jan 28/29 67.3 hours - Amsoil Sandbox arena.

April 3/11 Dunlop D739 front off (12.1 hrs), Bridgestone M604 (10.9 hrs) off @ 67.4 hrs. Pirelli sand rear on @ 67.4 hrs and new Dunlop D745 front on at 67.4 hrs.

April 14/11 Right intake 0.0045 Mid intake 0.0045 Left intake 0.0045 Both ex. 0.0085 - 68.8 hours. Note: the left intake is a little difficult to get a feeler in due to location. Feeler gauge goes from 0.008 to 0.011 so exhaust clearance could be bigger.

April 19/11 Bled front & rear brakes, lubed clutch cable @ 68.8 hours.

April 21/11 Fork oil (both chambers) and shock fluid replaced (19.8 hrs). Fork seals and bushings replaced @ 70.3 hours

April 22/11 Swingarm & Linkage bearings cleaned/re-greased 70.3 hours (19.8 hours between linkage & 70.3 on swingarm)

April 22/11 New right side rear wheel bearing, re-packed rear wheel bearings on left side

April 23/11 Cleaned air filter @ 70.3 hours - filter skin on

April 23/11 Pirelli sand rear off, Bridgestone rear M604 (10.9 hours) on at 70.3 hrs

April 25/11 Engine oil/filter changed @ 73.0 hours (7.7 hours) Amsoil MCF

April 27/11 Filter skin off at 74.4 hours

Really? LOL.

Edited by Gunner354
Really? LOL.

Uhh, ya. :thumbsup:

I paid a local shop (Moto One in Boise) $60 to check and adjust the valves on my 07. I also had them replace the timing chain at the same time. So for $60 they checked and adjusted my valves and replaced the timing chain which I provided them along with the side cover gasket. They also changed the oil at the same time.

Six Pack of beer is fair for checking valves

12 pack for adjusting

Bring it by anytime:busted:

09 with over 400 hrs and haven't checked valves . Starts first or second kick. These are not Hondas, they will run a long time. Just go out and ride.

^ This is why I don't trust buying used four strokes.

What's you're thought's on the clearances I came up with? Does this sound reasonable?

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