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motoman393

fixing a bent header?

26 posts in this topic

Dear Thumpertalkers,

I creased my header about 1 month ago due to a crash, and I am wondering if anyone has tried to bend theirs back to normal? My header is a White Bros high boy stainless! It is creased right underneath the radiator (about 2-3 inches from the exhaust port)!

I was thinking about cutting the header right in the middle where the crease is, then re bend it back to a circular shape, and then reweld the 2 pieces back together? Would this work w/o exhaust leaking? Have any of you guys done this?

It seems like every time I have a "pretty good crash" the header always creases in the same spot! Have you noticed this too? I am getting tired of buying new headers, since the companies "hose" you for $150 for each one (which is highly overpriced...they cant be as hard to produce as 2 stroke pipes, I mean come on) I would appreciate any comments you guys have! Thanks,

Garrett

------------------

I get my kicks on a 2001' YZ426!

Friendswood, TX

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I was gettin ready to take min into a shop and pay $57 to fix a huge dent about the siz of a half dollar and about 3/8 deep.

I was talkin to my neighbor with a wr and metioned it to him and he said he had fixed his 4 times already.

He had created a little jig for it.

I will try to describe it as good as possible.

First he had a rubber plug that expanded inside the tail end of the header with a screw in it tthat caused it to expand.

Then he had some tie wire wrapped around the screw a couple of times and draped back over the pipe with a worm drive clamp holding the wire.........basically a safety device for the rubber plug popping out.....

2.

He had taken a piece of sheet metal 1/4 or 3/8 and drilled holes to match the header clamp holes and put bolts thru it to pull the header tight to the sheet metal.

In the center of where the header bolts he drilled and tapped a hole to fit a simple air hose adapter.

We put about 80psi into the pipe and heated it with a torch.......Very Carefully.......

It works best with 2 ppl so one can run the torch and the other can pull the air off and on as needed.Be carefull tho because once it gets hot it will start to expand slowly but if it gets to hot it will actuall go to far out and maybe bubble,,,,,,This is where the guy running the air pressure comes in handy.

If you have any questions let me know.

If i have a chance i will try to get a pix posted.

Very simple actually.

I probably made it sound harder than it really is.

It took us about 10min once i got the header off and you can barely tell.

G4

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Thanks a bunch G4...this sounds like a VERY GOOD idea! I would appreciate it very much if you could email me some pics or post them! email me @ motoman393@hotmail.com Thanks you made my day!

Garrett

------------------

I get my kicks on a 2001' YZ426!

Friendswood, TX

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I will try to borrow a dig camera and get some pix on the post for you.

But in the mean time I will try to explain it simpler.

Basically you need to pull the header off of the bike.

Then plug the tail end of it with something........We used some sort of a

rubber plug that expands when you tighten a screw that is in the middle of

it........i think maybe he got it from Home Depot .

Then for safety we wrapped tie wire around the screw and left about 2 inches

off of each side of it draped down the pipe.

We took a worm drive clamp and tightened it over the wire in case the plug

came loose it would be restrained by the wire which is held by the worm

drive clamp.

He has a flat piece of sheet metal about 3/8 thick and 5"wide X 5" long

with two holes drilled to match the header flange.

Put this plate into your vise.

In the center of these two holes he has a hole drilled and tapped to fit a

standard air chuck.

Bolt the header so that it is mounted flush to the metal plate.

Thread the Air chuck into the center hole.

Attach the air hose to the chuck.

If you have a regulator set it at about 80psi.

heat the dent or crease evenly till it is red hot and it should slowly start

to come out.

Be careful not to get it too hot.

As soon as it starts to come out make sure you watch it and when it gets

close to being to the original then release the air and stop heating.

I released the air about 3 times b4 we got it back to the original just

being safe and did not want to over do it!

Plus it is a good idea to release the air a couple of times in case O2 has

gotten into the pipe.........very dangerous......

have a hammer nearby in case the pipe swells too much you can tap it back

while it is still hot.

cool it down and wire brush it.

You will be the only one that notices!

Be careful ........I was so excited my $150 pipe was fixed I nearly grabbed

a HOT pipe with my bare hands!

I will still try to get some pix but probably wont be til FRI

I broke my foot in 4 places yesterday on a 90' table and I am still Drugged

up on loritabs and hobblin' around the house.SUX

Doc says no walkin for 2-3 wks and probly no ridin for 6

DUMMY

Don't hesitate to email if any other quest.

Chris

Sorry Guys I was in a hurry when i wrote the last one.

This one may be a little easier to understand!

G4

------------------

NOPE..........BOY.......

That's not thunder ridin' your BUTT .........

It's a whole Damn HURRICANE!!!!!!

[This message has been edited by g4racing (edited 05-06-2001).]

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Originally posted by motoman393:

Dear Thumpertalkers,

I creased my header about 1 month ago due to a crash, and I am wondering if anyone has tried to bend theirs back to normal? My header is a White Bros high boy stainless! It is creased right underneath the radiator (about 2-3 inches from the exhaust port)!

I was thinking about cutting the header right in the middle where the crease is, then re bend it back to a circular shape, and then reweld the 2 pieces back together? Would this work w/o exhaust leaking? Have any of you guys done this?

It seems like every time I have a "pretty good crash" the header always creases in the same spot! Have you noticed this too? I am getting tired of buying new headers, since the companies "hose" you for $150 for each one (which is highly overpriced...they cant be as hard to produce as 2 stroke pipes, I mean come on) I would appreciate any comments you guys have! Thanks,

Garrett

Another method to try. Remove your pipe so as not to get too much heat back to the head. Weld 1 or more small bolts in the dent (if you have a slide hammer use the size bolt that fits the hammer). Heat the dented area (at the outside edge of the dent) and pull on the bolts using the slide hammer. If you don't have a slide hammer use a small chain & attach it to the bolt. Attach the other end to some kind of weight. The more time you spend the better the results, just don't get the pipe real hot (not cherry red) & let it cool some before you start on the next bolt. When you are done cut the bolts off & grind the welds off.

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I don't have a company name for you, but I remember a company from some years ago which could fix dented and crushed pipes for a fee that was less than a new pipe. They advertised for 2-stroke pipes but I don't see why they couldn't do the same for a 4 stroke header. I think they used high-pressure water to blow the pipe back up to size or something funny like that. In any event, I don't have the company name but perhaps a little digging will turn it up. If I remember correctly I saw the ad in the back of a Dirt Rider magazine, but again that was years ago.. Good luck!

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SIRTHUMPALOT.........

you are right they are in the back of a mag

and they are out of fla somewhere

i think it is a same day turnaround and about $50 incl shipping but they only advts for 2 stroke pipes which are a lot thinner than a thumper header.

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Still trying to get ahold of the dig. cam. and gotta wait til my neighbor is back in town on fri 11th may

maybe tonite or tommorow

G4

for pix

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I have talked to both of those pipe repair places and they told me they don't do 4 stroke pipes. That was last year so you may want to check again maybe they have changed their tune with the increase of 4 strokes out there.

------------------

SHN

99'YZ-400 (Mine)

00' TT-R 125 (Hers)

91' KX-125 (Son #1)

93' CR-80 (Just sold it. Looking for another TTR125 for Son #2)

99' PW-80 (Son #3)

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Here are the Pix I promised hope the help the explanation of the process we use to fix those troublesome headers!

Good Luck!

fetch.dll?action=view_photo&ID_Community=G4RACING&ID_Topic=1&ID_Message=38

fetch.dll?action=view_photo&ID_Community=G4RACING&ID_Topic=1&ID_Message=39

fetch.dll?action=view_photo&ID_Community=G4RACING&ID_Topic=1&ID_Message=40

fetch.dll?action=view_photo&ID_Community=G4RACING&ID_Topic=1&ID_Message=41

Notice the proctologist tool and the Headache medicine in the background!!!!!!!!!

We thought maybe we might also put some sort of a rubber seal between the header and the jig to make it a little more leak proof but with my header it barely leaked anything by.

Just make sure you get it fairly square and tight.

G4

------------------

NOPE..........BOY.......

That's not thunder ridin' your BUTT .........

It's a whole Damn HURRICANE!!!!!!

[This message has been edited by g4racing (edited 05-13-2001).]

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What a simple way to fix pipes!! Do you think this would work with 2smoke pipes also? I don't see any reason it wouldn't.

------------------

Khris

When in doubt, GAS IT!

What are you, YELLOW?

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G4,

I posted the same thread on the WR forum and got 3 replies...one guy said I only should use 5-10psi? And your saying around 80...that is a big difference! Are you absolutely sure you set the regulator at 80psi? I am not doubting you, I just dont want to blow a hole in my header.

I took the header off the bike today and will be building the jig tomorrow (i have to get a tap for the air chuck hole)!

Oh yeah one more thing...is the black part on the jig just a thin piece of rubber (for better sealant?) If so I am planning on cutting up ann old inner tube and im sure that would work! What did you use? And did you glue it to the 3/8" platform or just place it on there and then tighten the bolts? I really appreciate all your replies! Thanks,

Garrett

------------------

I get my kicks on a 2001' YZ426!

Friendswood, TX

[This message has been edited by motoman393 (edited 05-14-2001).]

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We did use the 80psi but with 2 ppl and very carefully.

The next time i do it I will probably do it with 40-50psi and if that is not enuf I will work up the psi.

I think it is all relative to the amount of heat.

On this jig there is no rubber but we thought of next time to put an old inner tube glued to it like you said to seal it better.

Mine didn't leak too bad but the rubber would sure help!

Definately use a second person that has some sort of mech. ability to help you out the first time.It will make it much easier and you won't have to buy a new header.

Any other Quest. don't hesitate to ask.

------------------

NOPE..........BOY.......

That's not thunder ridin' your BUTT .........

It's a whole Damn HURRICANE!!!!!!

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i cant see why it wouldn't ?

all you need to do is figure a way out to snug the 2smoke pipe up to the plate metal!

------------------

NOPE..........BOY.......

That's not thunder ridin' your BUTT .........

It's a whole Damn HURRICANE!!!!!!

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Well I thought I would let you guys know that I got the "jig" for my header made! It works surprisingly well, I filled the header up to 125psi and it doesnt even leak (teflon tape is a MUST have for the air chuck threads)! I will heat the header up tomorrow and bend the header back to normal tomorrow! For any of you guys who may need to make one of these "jigs", here are the materials I used:

1/4" thick steel plate (4" x 12") $6.97

Galvanized bolts/nuts/washers $ .69

1 1/2" Rubber expansion (freeze) plug $3.22

7/16 drill and tap $8.55

air chuck male connector $ .99

old tire tube (to seal it better)

safety wire (to hold the plug in)

Total- $20.42

I think $20 to repair your pipe is a bargain. And I'm sure it will be used many times, by me and friends/etc! I just thought I would let you guys know, because I am excited that it turned out this good! Thanks G4,

Garrett

(I will let you know how good the finished/fixed header turns out!)

------------------

I get my kicks on a 2001' YZ426!

Friendswood, TX

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Garret.,,,,,,

Just make sure to be super careful with that HEAT!

------------------

NOPE..........BOY.......

That's not thunder ridin' your BUTT .........

It's a whole Damn HURRICANE!!!!!!

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Stressing CAUTION!!

It is a simple concept but a dangerous one if you dont know metal. Be careful and at the very least wear safety glasses. Too much heat with air pressure will blow a hole in your pipe. It's a very thin metal and will molt easily. Just be careful. Does it really hinder your performance that much. I have a dent in mine and dont really notice anything different. The dent seems to add character.

------------------

01 426 beat to snot

1997 Golden Retreiver

trampoline

smelly sneakers

smoke runs in my undies

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Ok, me and my Dad tried to bend my header back to normal this afternoon. It straightened out a little bit, but not by much! We tried for about 2 hrs... and even increased the pressure up to 110psi and got the header RED HOT! And it still wouldnt budge much at all! We are going to try some tomorrow. G4, was the header you fixed a stock or aftermarket? I have a WB high boy...and maybe the metal is thicker or something! The jig works great and doesnt leak, etc, I am just thinking it is the pipe thickness. Also did you use a propane or acetylene torch? Maybe we are not getting it hot enough (it is glowing red though)? Any suggestions or other ways to straighten it out? Im all ears! Thanks,

Garrett

------------------

I get my kicks on a 2001' YZ426!

Friendswood, TX

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