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charles_guy91

Best full synthetic oil in 09 yz450f?

62 posts in this topic

Why does everyone assume that there's a "best oil"?

I use Amsoil MCV in the 3 hottest months of the year, and MCF all the rest of the time. Mobil 1 Racing 4T is also a good choice, as are a number of others. You want one blended for motorcycle use, and not some budget automotive oil. The main considerations are compatibility with wet clutches (look for JASO MA and avoid API ECII) and the question of whether the oil can survive being used as a gear oil, since it's used to lube the trans. Shear in the gear box is what takes most car and truck oils down a grade from their rated viscosity in under 2 hours time.

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I am a big fan of Redline oil. It's a group V polyol ester base oil. A true synthetic. There are a few that do a good job. I just know that one of my current yz450's has over 400 hours on it and still runs strong.

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I'm sure people will shun me but I'm using regular mobil 1 10W30 in my bike. I've had no clutch slippage or excessive wear issues in the past 20 hours.

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I am a big fan of Redline oil. It's a group V polyol ester base oil. A true synthetic.
Lest this create confusion, Group V esters are not the only true synthetics. Group IV oils are the poly-alpha olefins, and are every bit a true synthetic oil in the sense that the base oil is entirely man-made. Oils in this group include the Amsoil MCF and MCV, and the Mobil 1 motorcycle specific oils.

The term "true synthetic" implies that there are some that are not truly synthetic, and unfortunately, that is the case. Group III oils like the original Castrol Syn-Tec are not created from man-made base stocks, but they earned the right in court to claim to be synthetic on the basis that they are so highly refined as to be a product of a manufacturing process, even though that really is not the case. Today, several "synthetic" oils are either Group III oils, or Group III's blended with IV's or V's.

The real advantage of synthetics is that whereas in refining petroleum oils, one strives to remove a long list of things that one does not want in the oil to the best of one's ability, in a synthetic, one puts in it only what one wants to begin with. The end product is always exactly what was intended.

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Ask 10 people and you will get 10 different answers. Personally im running Yamalube 15w-50 and i'm gonna switch to Amsoil 20w-50 once my current collection of 15w-50 runs out.

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Klotz mx4 10w/40 is what I run in every bike I own including my rocket. I have no complaint's and in my experience is one of the better oils out there. 13.00 bucks a quart though. Smells awesome.

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Why does everyone assume that there's a "best oil"?

I use Amsoil MCV in the 3 hottest months of the year, and MCF all the rest of the time. Mobil 1 Racing 4T is also a good choice, as are a number of others. You want one blended for motorcycle use, and not some budget automotive oil. The main considerations are compatibility with wet clutches (look for JASO MA and avoid API ECII) and the question of whether the oil can survive being used as a gear oil, since it's used to lube the trans. Shear in the gear box is what takes most car and truck oils down a grade from their rated viscosity in under 2 hours time.

+4. I use Amsoil in both bikes, the car and the truck. Great stuff backed by independent labs. Get the premium membership and you'll get the oil, filters and lots of other good stuff at a good price too.

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+4. I use Amsoil in both bikes, the car and the truck. Great stuff backed by independent labs. Get the premium membership and you'll get the oil, filters and lots of other good stuff at a good price too.

Know a lot of people that love Amsoil and I am not a fan. You couldn't give me a case of it. Seen a lot of separation issues with it in the drag series of sleds. Amsoil and Motul. But I haven't used it for any two wheel operations. Used it in my car when it first came out but soon switched to Mobil 1. Would love to see the lab reports versus Klotz. Not saying it is a bad oil. I live in MN so I would love to support the company, as it is right down the street. Oil is oil in my opinion but once you go KLOTZ you will never go back!

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put oil in, change it often, ride away fast....... you will get hundreds of answers

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Seen a lot of separation issues with (Amsoil) in the drag series of sleds....
Separation as in two-stroke premix? How in the world does that apply here?
Oil is oil in my opinion but once you go KLOTZ you will never go back!
Talking in circles. "Oil is oil", but your favorite is better?

Klotz makes a good oil for pingers, but that's not the issue here. At $13+/qt, it's way more expensive than Amsoil MCF (with the preferred customer discount), and MCF/MCV is the only engine oil I know of actually labeled as meeting API GL1.

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Seeing as how we have yet another oil thread going........?

Anyone know anything about the LUCAS stuff...specifically the semi synthetic 10/40....Just wonderin??????I know they are payin a couple big names to peddle this stuff on TV...And I won 2 cases at a race so I was just wonderin.

"meets or exceeds" API SM/SL/SJ/CC/CD........JASO MA-2..........ACEA A3

Made in USA.

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Seeing as how we have yet another oil thread going........?

Anyone know anything about the LUCAS stuff...(?)

Lucas didn't fare very well overall in the lab tests I've seen. It was OK for the most part, but it rather seriously failed the foaming test.

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i have used amsoil 10w-40 for 2 race seasons.

i have used castrol syntec 10w-40 for a race season.

and have been using delo 15w-40. for about a year now.

yes delo, the same oil we run in our 3 powerstroke diesels. I have took the clutches off and looked at everything, no wear marks which is the most awesome thing ever beings the bike is a 2006 that i have owned new since 2006.

still original clutch.. and think for the money you save if the clutch does happen to slowly wear you will be able to afford to replace it..

your most important thing is how often you replace it.. dont get me wrong you dont have to over due it.. i replace mine possibly ever 8 hours.. depending on how hard or where i was riding.

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Klotz mx4 10w/40 is what I run in every bike I own including my rocket. I have no complaint's and in my experience is one of the better oils out there. 13.00 bucks a quart though. Smells awesome.

You shouldn't be able to smell the oil in a 4t. Are you burning oil?

Separation as in two-stroke premix? How in the world does that apply here?

Talking in circles. "Oil is oil", but your favorite is better?

Haha yeah i caught that too. Seems a little contridictive.

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I use Motul 300V in my 450F, also in the 250F when I had it. Yamalube goes in the TTRs, that new Polaris crap goes in the Outlaw 500 (so I don't hear the bitching about it from the local shop and it seems to do fine anyway and costs less than the Motul). Hope this helps! :thumbsup:

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You shouldn't be able to smell the oil in a 4t. Are you burning oil?

Hey smarty, he's talking about the smell of the oil from the bottle....

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Hey smarty, he's talking about the smell of the oil from the bottle....
And you know that how?

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Lucas didn't fare very well overall in the lab tests I've seen. It was OK for the most part, but it rather seriously failed the foaming test.

I knew I could count on a reliable answer from you sir.... Hell I dont know..I.ve just been using the Honda HP4 semi synthetic 10/40 in my Yz's since 06....right outta the shop drums!!....Unless you tell me something bad about that oil.....I guess.

Of the lab tests you have seen: Which ones have performed best?? Full Synthetic wise and semi-synthetic wise.

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