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jaybird67k

Clutch Pull

18 posts in this topic

I have found the 426's clutch pull to be extremely hard, so I purchased a Hebo hyd. clutch and have found it to be still heavy but better than stock.

I rode a 01 CR 250 at the track the other day and there is a tremendous diffrence. Honda has been known for there easy clutch pull for years now.

How can I ease my clutch pull ?

Can I get lighter springs, and still hook up ?

I have heard of some people removing springs , is this a possibility ?

The only time it affects me is when trying to adjust the bike attitude in the air.

I appreciated all the info.

Thanks, Jason

Beaumont, Tx.

#67

01 426

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One way to do it, is to put a CR clutch perch and lever on and keep your cable lubed. Reduced clutch pull considerably. I have the FMF Adjust on the fly clutch kit, that uses the same design as the Honda 's. Feels better than my buddies Magura set-up. Later! -Adam-

[This message has been edited by akg800 (edited 05-01-2001).]

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Jaybird

The first mod I've made to my 00 426 was to lenghtened the clutch arm, remove it, cut it, then add a 7mm piece of steel (as far as I remember, take good measure of available space before removing the arm) then reweld the thing and you're done, slightly lighter clutch pull.

Only one drawback, when abusing clutch, lever play variation is amplified a bit, on a non hydraulic cable.

But I don't know if the Hebo set-up allow the slightly longer stroke the modified arm need.

Someone have both? Hebo + longer clutch pull arm??

Dan

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I know it's kind of late for you jaybird, since you puchased a Hebo unit, but, This might help someone else. One of the best ways to reduce clutch pull is by installing a Magura Hyd clutch, and using an Enduro Engineering KTM Easy pull clutch lever. It reduces clutch pull by 40%. Don't worry about it not fitting, all Magura master cylinders use the same lever. This mod works, it reduces clutch pull to about the same as a 125.

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I've read that someone people say that one hydrolic clutch kit offers a lighter pull than another (Magura being the ligher I assume). Does the kit with the lighter pull reduce the amount that it moves the clutch arm, or does it just have less internal friction (or both)?

Thanks!

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I'm with Adam on this one. I've tried the hyd. clutch and got rid of it. Not much better than stock. I bought a $10 Moose CR lever/perch and a cheap Motion Pro cable (not the T2). I clean and lube the perch and cable every other ride . The pull is very close if not the same as my buds 2001 CR250.

Take it for what it's worth but I wouldn't spend the money on $300 clutches or $100 levers/perches.

Jon

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As stated earlier:

"Lenghten the clutch arm, remove it, cut it, then add a 7mm piece of steel."

I did it to mine and I love it.. Cost me a total of $0

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I put a MSR Raptor easy pull perch and lever on my 01 426. What a huge difference! Cost around 50.00 for both. Pull is much lighter, plus the lever has a matching blue rubber strip on the outside. Feels and looks good.

Mike

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What do you all think about GA426's comment? I have heard that many riders just jam the gears without pulling the clutch. Does this wear the tranny/gears or is it 'normal' riding practice? If it won't hurt the bike I would love to reduce the dreaded arm pump by not using the clutch as much.

I'm no racer but I do ride tracks. Do you have to finesse the shifting or just stomp it?

thanks as always,

J

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EBay ---- seriously, on your next ride try this technique. I have been riding these blue beast since 1999 like this. You will on occasion use the clutch, as usual. I have found no problems on any of my 400s/426s from riding like this. Arm pump, will definitely be decreased as will premature clutch wear..........remember roll-on the throttle through the corners.

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Uhhhhh....under hard acceleration, I opt to use the clutch. It's a lot easier to replace fiber plates than a fourth pinion gear. They put clutches on these bikes for a reason and that's not just to start the bike.(no offense to the people that don't use them). I would always use the clutch to upshift under hard acceleration, but I never use the clutch to downshift. Since the motor is decelerating, there is much less of a load on the motor and it's a common practice among motocrossers. But hey, it's your bike, your clutch, and your riding style. Cheers.

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Uhhhhh....under hard acceleration, I opt to use the clutch. It's a lot easier to replace fiber plates than a fourth pinion gear. They put clutches on these bikes for a reason and that's not just to start the bike.(no offense to the people that don't use them). I would always use the clutch to upshift under hard acceleration, but I never use the clutch to downshift. Since the motor is decelerating, there is much less of a load on the motor and it's a common practice among motocrossers. But hey, it's your bike, your clutch, and your riding style. Cheers.

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I totally agree w/daveyg! If your speed shifting w/o using the clutch your asking for disaster. I never use the clutch when downshifting, or when I am just "puttin' around"! Just my 2 cents

Garrett

------------------

I get my kicks on a 2001' YZ426!

Friendswood, TX

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I agree with you guys

I remember my olds days on Hondas CR, no clutch use aside abuse on berms, full throttle acceleration, keep pressure on shift lever and when the rear wheel came loose (between bumps) it will shift, I was cool, and it sound fast too, an automatic sound in straight....like the pro

Only one drawback, need 6 new gears when I next splitted the cases, the gear dogs where all bashed...+ 2 bended shift forks. I've learned that the pro don't pay, that's why they do that...

At least back off throttle if you really don't want to use your clutch in acceleration or get ready to pay the price. Not to mention the risk of a neutral shift. (gurlp...on a 4 stroke)

As for downshifting witout clutch, on a 2 stroke no problem, but i'm not sure on these 4 s., they don't have as much compression deceleration than a traditional 4s so I think It's not as risky as upshifting,as for tranny damage, because the risk of overreving a 4 s is scary.....

As any mechanical device, be gentle and it'll last, or beat it and pay...It's your choice.

Dan

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I sure appreciate all the replies, and as for GA426owner, in my original statement I said that the only problem with the clutch pull was when in the air when you are adjusting the attitude of your bike by pulling the clutch and stomping the back brake to get the nose down.

On the ground its no problem but it is a must in MX to get your nose down fast, and this heavy pull is compiled when your in the air and your body position is foward and you try to one finger the clutch and get a full disengagement of the clutch without stalling the beast.

Thanks again,

Jason

Beaumont,Tx.

#67

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I do not understand the issue. If this 426 is 2001, the new lever design helps. Otherwise, buy the Works connection unit w/built in decompression lever. But still, I really only use the clutch to start in 1st. It is rare if I use it to shift once I am underway. This is not a 2stroke, don't fan the clutch. The more you use it, the more it will fade. This is how you ride a 4 stroke.

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I also lengthened my clutch actuating arm and it is the greatest! I've been doing this for years to all my big bore bikes with hard clutch pull. One thing - it reduces the amount of friction play in the pull. This is not a problem for me, I ride my YZ426 with the clutch on or off, NO IN-BETWEEN. I don't run the risk of burning up my clutch plates this way. I have experimented with different extensions and 6-7 mm is the BEST.

With this mod it only requires two fingers.

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I just put a magura juice clutch on my 01 426, along with the enduro engineering clutch lever , and the pull is almost non existent. The pull on my 250F is 3X as hard as my 426 is now. But before I shelled out the cash for the hydro, I already had a works connection pro perch and lever from my 250 2 stroke. Put that on first with a motion pro T2 cable, and I still needed a gorilla grip to pull the thing in. The only reason I really like it, as everyone says, is to pull in the clutch while on the longer flights into the stratosphere, as the bike will not like the tap on the rear binder with the clutch 1/2 way in. Really makes the butt pucker when you kill it mid flight.

with the current set up, let it saillllllll!!!.

------------------

Mr. Wizard says: "Go BIG, or go home!"

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