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Pat E

2010 mapping question

4 posts in this topic

I've been experimenting with all different maps and have noticed that certain maps are more prone to the bike stalling right off idle? (I am running a Rekluse Core EXP). Example- Using Yamaha 's "Broad Powerband" map it stalled more than a few times exiting a slow corner, I immed. switched it to the Marmont map and it never stalled again the rest of the day. To me, not stalling is more important than the power delivery, so what is the trick for the "right off idle programming"? Also, what would be the proper way to keep the overall traits of the Marmont map, but tame it down a bit? Is it as simple as lowering both the ig. and fuel numbers by one or two? Any help appreciated!!

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I don't have an answer for your question, but I noticed the same thing. I have a Rekluse Core EXP as well, and I had to do a fair amount of experimenting to get the clutch setup to where it wouldn't stall. You probably already know this, but make sure you have the "light" set of weights for the EXP pack (I had to have mine sent to me from Rekluse because they didn't come with the pkg initially). This made a big difference. Also, I set the gap pretty wide on the spectrum of recommended settings (like towards 4-5 ticks). All my riding is desert riding with loose rock and sandy washes, and some loose technical singletrack. For me, running the following map has been best for avoiding stalling, it tames down the initial "bark", and allows me to ride longer without feeling fatigued:

Gradual response; very long, smooth power delivery

Fuel

+5 +5 0

+5 +7 +1

+5 +7 +2

Ignition

0 0 0

0 -5 0

-3 -4 0

Premium Pump Gas

I have played around with the Marmont map and it is fun in certain conditions for sure, but for me I don't need the track-type "punch" of the Marmont map and I prefer the better traction/less chance of stalling I get with the above map for desert riding. It's interesting to me that I had just the opposite results that you did: using the "broad powerband" map, I had less stalling, while you had more. Maybe it is just the type of terrain and the riding technique. I was purposely riding to the point where I was pushing the bike to try and stall (since I was setting up the clutch/bike), so when I ride correctly and actually use the clutch lever properly and shift to the proper gear, I should never be able to stall it.

Edited by atropine
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Thanks, and your right about the lighter wedges for the EXP. I also changed to them from the original ones the Rekluse came with. Regarding the ticks on the clutch adj. are you saying you go with 4-5 after one full turn instead of 3? Just wanted to confirm. I am racing MX tomorrow and will try your map. Thanks! by the way, what gearing are you running? I started with a 49 rear but just switched to a 50.

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Yes, 4-5 ticks + 1 full turn. I am still running the original rear sprocket (had to get knee surgery after only about 8 hours on the bike and am still rehabbing). I think the map I prefer is the same map you were having problems with.... if so, the difference may be due to terrain or riding style. I would guess for racing MX that you would end up preferring the Marmont map. The conditions I ride in are so loose that the added snap of the Marmont map just results in rear tire spin. Good luck!

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