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skullcandy

2010 Yz450 Broken clutch actuation arm??

12 posts in this topic

Heres my dilemma. I purchashed a whole wack of new parts, including a works connection elite perch. I went to put the cable on and realized it is too short, which brings me to my question. The bikes been sitting since september so I changed the oil, removed the clutch plates and re oiled the friction plates, and my clutch actuation arm moves freely. There is no spring back at all. What is wrong, is there a cam inside that could be broken or is there something I can do to fix this problem. Hopefully its not bottom end issues. It worked fine because I winterized it so Im getting pretty frustrated.

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Since there is no return spring on the arm, there will be a certain amount of free travel in which there is no "spring back". if you put a wrench or a pair of pliers on the arm, you'll be able to move the arm in the direction of the cable pull against the clutch springs and feel it work.

Now, if it moves much farther than that without coming up against the clutch, there are three things you may have done wrong that I can think of:

  1. You let the clutch push rod ball (#17) get away. (common)
  2. You lifted the clutch release arm up too far out the case while the long push rod was removed, and it is out of postion.
  3. You misaligned the pressure plate relative to the clutch boss (#'s 5 & 6)
  4. One of the other 3 pieces of the push rod stack is missing (#'s 14-18)

CLUTCH.Gif

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I will double check, but the only problem is that I hadnt taken off the clutch cover since New. I crash in september bending the bars and clutch perch. I took the cover off and the actuator is moving its just having full range of movement without touching the pressure plate, and now it seems my clutch cable is to short with the new elite perch.

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Make sure #17 is in there.

Did you take out any plates? This happens when you are a plate short as well.

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Make sure #17 is in there.

Did you take out any plates? This happens when you are a plate short as well.

When you are a plate short, the opposite happens, i.e., there will be no free travel in the arm at all, and the clutch will slip. The exact reverse of the situation here.

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I just re-read the OP and realized I understood him wrong.

But I've seen complete free play at the lever when a guy was one plate short.

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Think about that:

  • If you take out a plate, which way does the pressure plate go?
  • Which way does that move the push rods?
  • Which way does that move the release arm?

Does what you said make sense? The one you saw had another problem concurrent with the missing plate, or it had one extra.

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If say # 15 and # 16 had come loose and come out, is there any way of it getting into the bottom end and doing some serious damage, or would it be stuck somewhere in the clutch assembly only. I was just hoping the oil passages arent big enough for that c lip to get down there. Ill go take everything apart right now and post back.

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Not certain of that offhand, but I wouldn't be surprised if there was room for either of those parts to get to the sump.

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UPDATE*

I decided to pull everything apart and all the parts you listed were in place. I noticed the pressure plate was sticking on the last friction plate. So what I did was install the pressure plate with the springs and bolts only a couple threads in so they were loose. Then I installed the clutch cable and slowly pulled the clutch and tapped the pressure plate with a rubber mallet. It seemed to work well so I installed the cable at the actuation arm and to the clutch and then torqued down the pressure plate and clutch springs. It worked like a charm, but Ill have to take it through the gears and fully break the plates free. Im so releived, thanks for the help gray, you helped allot with that schematic.

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