Checking Valves and Feeler Gauge Question

I didn't scrutinize your clearances, but in general, you would want to go on the loose side of the spec because the valve clearance will tend to get tighter. That said, the valves on these bikes are so good that you probably won't need another adjustment after this, so you might be OK to go with middle to tighter end of the spec. Really, you'll be OK as long as you're in the range.

Thanks, that's what I wanted to hear. Now I'm off to buy my shims and a new air filter.

So they just had a HotCams shim kit, not OEM shims so I couldn't get the Honda shims and had to stick with .05 mm intervals meaning I couldn't get the 1.775 shim and had to go with another 1.75.

Edited by woods-rider

For assembly lube you can use a few drops of ATF if you have some around the garage. ATF has VERY high lubrication properties. If not as already stated just use the oil you run in the bike.

I have some of that already too, thanks for the suggestion.

So I got my shims in and the bike back together. The shim that I wanted to use a 1.775 for and ended up getting a 1.75 was too loose with the 1.75 when I got it back together so I used one of the 1.78s I took out of the exhaust side and now all 5 valves are in the middle of spec. She starts much easier now and even starts with the magic button when cold in just a few sec! I used to have to kick it when cold so that is a great sign.

Cool! Glad to hear the good news and that it all worked out for you. Good job

Might be a little late with this, but I forgot to mention that most stay just a few inch lbs below the factory spec for the cam cap torque, no biggie if you torqued up to spec though.

Might be a little late with this, but I forgot to mention that most stay just a few inch lbs below the factory spec for the cam cap torque, no biggie if you torqued up to spec though.

OP advised of the same on post #6 on page 1.

Might be a little late with this, but I forgot to mention that most stay just a few inch lbs below the factory spec for the cam cap torque, no biggie if you torqued up to spec though.

May be a dumb question but, why? :thumbsup:

May be a dumb question but, why? :thumbsup:

I was wondering the same thing.

apparently, there isn't any chance they will come loose at 3-5in/lbs less and it eliminates any chance of overtorquing. Apparently, slight overtorquing can lead to binding of the cams which will cease your cam in relatively short order.

My manual only had me torque them to 7.2 ft-lbs.

My manual only had me torque them to 7.2 ft-lbs.

And that is equal to 86 in lbs....

Right, but it sounded to me like matt4x4 was suggesting 3-5 in-lbs which didn't seem right.

3-5in/lbs less

Ahh, gotcha. I must have overlooked that little detail. Well, mine are at 7.2 ft-lbs so I hope that doesn't cause any problems.

I asked earlier, too - mainly because I broke a cam cap bolt doing my first valve adjust...imagine the crap in my pants when that happened! Likely I was a ft-lb or two over, but I'm guessing that this may not be an uncommon problem (?)

Man, I hope a foot pound or two isn't enough to break the bolts. If it is, that's some scary shiat.

With the Titanium valves once they get tight they will get tight again more often. No telling the exact number of hours but you should check more often after the first adjustment. I think the general rule is usually 3 adjustments max before you get some new valves.

Also you should buy some new feeler gauges that have the correnct numbers to make things easier. My set has .10mm .13mm .15mm .20mm .23mm .25mm etc.

Makes it very easy with increments like this.

getting ready to do mine. Do I need to purchase a special kind of feeler gauge? Angled ones or whatever?

I couldn't get my angeled ones in because of obstructions so I just used my straight ones. They flexed right in there.

I'm glad I opened this thread, I've got a couple that are on the tight side and knowing that Honda shims fit and are in .25 steps will be rather useful.

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