Heavy Clutch Pull!!

Anybody have any suggestion on how to lighten up the clutch pull on yzf 426? Anybody try adding a few millemeters to the activating arm?

I had a Moose Easy Clutch on a previous bike which did work pretty well. However a new well lubed cable and standard Moose CR perch with plenty of greese works as well if not better.

The key is lubing the cable every couple of rides and cleaning and lubing the perch.

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99 YZ400F, 86 XR250

76 RD400, 71 Z50

I just installed a hebo hydraulic unit on my 99yzf and it feels great, can pull it with one finger. Well worth the 180$

There are a few guys (incl. me) running the MSR Raptor lever & perch assembly. I bought mine a while back and forgot what it cost but I want to say it was forty bucks or so.

I swapped bikes once with a guy on a YZ400 and he thought my clutch was broken.

This lever is the equivalent of a longer clutch arm, but it increases the leverage at the other end of the cable with the decreased throw being the only downside. If you abuse your clutch you may not be willing to make this trade because it will go out of adjustment more quickly and may have a much different engagement point at the end of a moto.

I’ve never had any problems with mine, I think it is a godsend for off-road use but may not be the ticket for clutch-slipping motocrossers.

I installed the the MSR Raptor with the thumb adjuster. It works great, now I can shift with one finger. Well worth the money.

Mike

I added 6mm of length to my actuator arm. What a differance. The cost - $0 (all you need is a hacksaw, small piece of steel, and a buddy with a tig welder. This mod has my clutch pull slightly firmer than the 250F

If you have a '01 426, take a look at the clutch actuator arm on the left side of the engine. It is actually about 5 mm shorter than the '00 426. You can swap out the arm in your '01 with the arm for a '00. (You have to take the clutch apart to remove the arm)

I found the difference after I bought my my '01 and could not believe how much stiffer the pull was than my '00. I guess Yamaha must have put the shorter arm on to help the clutch disengage better.

If you have a 2000 or older, try a FMF 909 perch and lever, it has a good lever ratio and makes the pull alot easier than stock. I think the 909 perch is equivalent to a Honda CR perch? Also, I lube my cable quite often and that helps alot too.

I just drilled another hole lower down in the clutch lever. Works great, no welding, cost $0. You have to get as close as possible to the other hole. I should clairify that this hole does not go all the way thru & is for the clutch cable end.

[This message has been edited by Clod Thrower (edited 04-09-2001).]

By sheer accident, my clutch lever was clipped by an aggressive rider during practice recently and bent it forward quite a bit. I went back to my truck and using a large socket and a boxed end wrench with a rag over the lever, bent the lever back...but the socket I put between the bar and lever changed the bend of the lever. What I ended up with is a lever feel and ratio that is perfect....at least for me. I get a little more lever throw, plus the bend is now very comfortable for two-finger operation. I had also installed the Motion Pro T-2 cables a couple of months ago and that has added to the overall ease of operation. These cables are a little sluggish at first, but once they break-in, they are outstanding. I grin like a mule eatin' briars now.

MSR Raptor with the short arm works great. I also use Tri Flow to lube the pivot points, give it a try it works great!

JJ

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