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rdefonce

Stupid me: Is my adjuster "F"d?

21 posts in this topic

Have not even ridden my new 450F, replaced shock spring with correct one for my weight.

Didn't have spanner wrench, so I used a hard nylon piece (so I wouldn't mess up spanner "fingers") and hammer to tighten spring. All of a sudden it stopped moving, now it seems stuck.

Well, first of all, I will get the correct tool, a spanner wrench.

2 questions:

- Where do you buy decent spanner wrenches for yz450f shock?

- Do you think a good spanner wrench will "un-stick" the spanner?

Thanks

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Is the preload ring just spinning but not moving along the threads anymore? If so then you stripped the threads on the shock body, which I have seen happen on a couple YZ shocks. I don't think a spanner wrench would have really made a difference. When this happened to me I cut the ring off and used a thread file to clean up the threads in that area. Then I bought a new preload ring and used a spacer so that I could get the same preload on the spring, but the preload ring would be further up on the shock body where the threads were undamaged.

Edited by KJ790
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No it's not spinning at all, it seems stuck. I sure hope I don't have to cut it off, but if worse comes to worse, thanks for the suggestion.

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Is the preload ring just spinning but not moving along the threads anymore? If so then you stripped the threads on the shock body, which I have seen happen on a couple YZ shocks. I don't think a spanner wrench wouldn't have really made a difference. When this happened to me I cut the ring off and used a thread file to clean up the threads in that area. Then I bought a new preload ring and used a spacer so that I could get the same preload on the spring, but the preload ring would be further up on the shock body where the threads were undamaged.

Perfect that is what i did.

Yamaha preload rings are cheap and strip easy.My 07 honda ring fit perfect

an solved the problem.

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Perfect that is what i did.

Yamaha preload rings are cheap and strip easy.My 07 honda ring fit perfect

an solved the problem.

I will get a good Honda one, if I can get mine off.:-o

Thx!

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Is the preload ring just spinning but not moving along the threads anymore? If so then you stripped the threads on the shock body, which I have seen happen on a couple YZ shocks. I don't think a spanner wrench would have really made a difference. When this happened to me I cut the ring off and used a thread file to clean up the threads in that area. Then I bought a new preload ring and used a spacer so that I could get the same preload on the spring, but the preload ring would be further up on the shock body where the threads were undamaged.

this just happened on my 10 450. got the threads cleaned up and put a new preload ring on. didnt think bout a spacer tho, wat did u use?

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Is the preload ring just spinning but not moving along the threads anymore? If so then you stripped the threads on the shock body, which I have seen happen on a couple YZ shocks. I don't think a spanner wrench would have really made a difference. When this happened to me I cut the ring off and used a thread file to clean up the threads in that area. Then I bought a new preload ring and used a spacer so that I could get the same preload on the spring, but the preload ring would be further up on the shock body where the threads were undamaged.

this just happened on my 10 450. got the threads cleaned up and put a new preload ring on. didnt think bout a spacer tho, wat did u use?

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this just happened on my 10 450. got the threads cleaned up and put a new preload ring on. didnt think bout a spacer tho, wat did u use?

I found a heavy duty grade of PVC and used a lathe to make it fit perfect.

If you had to buy a shock body ther cost about 250.00 new.

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Use a separating disc on a dremel tool.works easy

I have a dremel, but I'm not sure what you mean by separating disc . . . you mean a cutting disc?

I'll just have to be careful not to cut into the spring.

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Had the same issue the first time I tried to set my sag on my 2010...I ended up disassembling the shock (salvaged the ring nut) and cleaning up the threads on the shock body with a threadfile. Lubed it up with anti-seize compound and it's worked fine for the past year or so......

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Had the same issue the first time I tried to set my sag on my 2010...I ended up disassembling the shock (salvaged the ring nut) and cleaning up the threads on the shock body with a threadfile. Lubed it up with anti-seize compound and it's worked fine for the past year or so......

Man this is sounding so common on '10's could there possibly be some kind of recall????

(I know, wishfull thinking . . .)

Well I went way past the point of no return; a complete 90 degrees of 1 thread is "screwed", can't even think about using that section of threads again. That's what I get for forcing it, I should have known better.

Locking ring is above bad thread, preload ring is below bad thread, the only way to install spring now is to use spring compressor. I'm getting an aluminum sleeve made, that will span the gap between both rings (over bad thread section), so the locking ring can tighten against that.

. . . sure there's no recall?:thumbsup:

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Man this is sounding so common on '10's could there possibly be some kind of recall????

(I know, wishfull thinking . . .)

Well I went way past the point of no return; a complete 90 degrees of 1 thread is "screwed", can't even think about using that section of threads again. That's what I get for forcing it, I should have known better.

Locking ring is above bad thread, preload ring is below bad thread, the only way to install spring now is to use spring compressor. I'm getting an aluminum sleeve made, that will span the gap between both rings (over bad thread section), so the locking ring can tighten against that.

. . . sure there's no recall?:smirk:

You can only tighten the sag so much before the ring strips.which means in most cases you need a more heavy spring than you would need on bikes before this tech.With the shock moved into a more forward and central spot it needs a stronger spring and as we try to get the sag right the ring strips.

My 07 honda ,I ran a 5.7 spring this yam, I run a 6.1

In a way I am glad I am not the only one that had this happen.I have been riding for 35 years and never had this happen

I used ahigh grade PVC ring on mine to cover up the bad threads.

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You can only tighten the sag so much before the ring strips.which means in most cases you need a more heavy spring than you would need on bikes before this tech.With the shock moved into a more forward and central spot it needs a stronger spring and as we try to get the sag right the ring strips.

My 07 honda ,I ran a 5.7 spring this yam, I run a 6.1

In a way I am glad I am not the only one that had this happen.I have been riding for 35 years and never had this happen

I used ahigh grade PVC ring on mine to cover up the bad threads.

Are you saying the problem is the shock body threads, not the cheap stock preload ring? . . . I hope the (better quality) Honda preload ring will allow me to dial in the correct preload without stripping.

I will use a spanner wrench, and lube the threads. Between those, it should work.

Same here, been riding for about 40 years, never had this issue before.

I see Yam 3 had same issue. Yamaha should fix this for us!

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Mine was the shock body...

Same here, but the cheapo preload ring is probably the root cause of the shock body threads going south.

I believe it was the cause in my case, at least.

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What typically happens is that the soft steel of the ring "rolls up" under pressure and galls the aluminum, affecting a kind of seizure. This is caused by a combination of the soft steel, the cad plating, and the fact that the threads are usually both dry and dirty. Wash and dry the shock body before you make the first adjustment and squeeze some graphite on the threads, or use a dry moly spray lube. The problem can be avoided that way.

As far as using a Honda lock ring, remember that the '10 and up use a larger shock body than the '09 and earlier did.

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What typically happens is that the soft steel of the ring "rolls up" under pressure and galls the aluminum, affecting a kind of seizure. This is caused by a combination of the soft steel, the cad plating, and the fact that the threads are usually both dry and dirty. Wash and dry the shock body before you make the first adjustment and squeeze some graphite on the threads, or use a dry moly spray lube. The problem can be avoided that way.

As far as using a Honda lock ring, remember that the '10 and up use a larger shock body than the '09 and earlier did.

My shock was dry, but I was definitely clean, since it's brand new, never ridden. I just love messing up a brand spankin new shock.:smirk:

Maybe graphite is better than other types of lubes since it won't attract dirt as much?

about the lock ring; yes I realize the shock body is bigger on '10 yz450f than previous years.

I cross-referenced it, and it's the same as a bunch of Honda models (and Kawasaki and Suzuki models).

Funny fact: For my '10 yz450f shock, i could use the lock ring from a 1998 Suzuki RM125.

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Maybe graphite is better than other types of lubes since it won't attract dirt as much?.

Should not attract any at all, nor should a really good "dry" moly spray lube (one in which the solvent vehicle evaporates without leaving a tacky residue). Moly is a better choice because it will work itself into the metal surface semi permanently better than graphite can.

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