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ChillyKTM

Oil check Window ?

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my new 2011 has the oil window which i havent had before....i see NO oil at all in window...bike is brand new and HAS NOT BEEN STARTE yet ......just wondering if thats normal and if the window will always look empty when engine is cold ?

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Crank her up and let it run for a couple minutes, shut it off and let it sit for a few, and then check it.

I was paranoid about it at first too

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my new 2011 has the oil window which i havent had before....i see NO oil at all in window...bike is brand new and HAS NOT BEEN STARTE yet ......just wondering if thats normal and if the window will always look empty when engine is cold ?

Normal 100%

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It can take up to almost 30 seconds sometimes (when you change the filter for example) for oil to show in the window.

Bike must be level as well, even at a slight angle it will apear emtpy when leaning the bike to the right to check.

If you don't see oil in there after more than 30 seconds, shut the bike off and see what's going on!

Manual states that after every oil change you should remove the check bolt and start the bike, you should see oil starting to seep out within a minute, if nothing comes out after a minute shut the engine off or else engine damage will occur.

I just use the sight personally, I fill every change with 1.1 liters (even without a filter change) and wait for the sight to fill up when it first starts up.

Really handy to have this I might add, many times on the trail I've checked the sight to make sure I'm good to go. It's also a great indicator to see if the breather has sucked up water into the engine, you can see the color of the oil and if it's a chocolate milk color change the oil as soon as you can :thumbsup: happened to me once.

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I just use the sight personally, I fill every change with 1.1 liters (even without a filter change)

You're overfilling, even with a filter change. Why?

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Just as with an '06 with no oil on the dip stick, you can check for oil by tipping the bike to the right a little and removing the large center timing access plug on the left side. If a good deal of oil has migrated to the crankcase, some should be visible there when the bike is stood up or leaned to the left.

The '06 and all later models with the oil tank integrated in the front of the crankcase don't drain to the sump as fast or as much as the steel bikes do because of the difference in the height of the tank in relation to the sump, but it still happens. Whenever you are in serious doubt of there being oil in the engine, you should check.

With a sight window right below the return line into the tank, it seems like you might be able to see some oil moving as soon as the engine starts, but perhaps not.

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You're overfilling, even with a filter change. Why?

The oil stinks of gas and IMO degrades so quick in the winter I figure another 100ml would slow break down.

Who knows until I get the oil test results sent in and sent back...

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If you had the capacity in the tank, I would be all for that. I used to run 1.5L in my '03 all the time instead of the 1.2 it called for, but there was room for it. If the 2010+ is like the '06-'09, there is NO extra space in the tank, and as little as an extra 100cc ends up being pushed by the return pump through the tank and back to the sump via the pressure balance. This overworks the return pump, and the extra oil in the sump can end up catching on the crank, where it creates drag, the flies off onto the cylinder walls, overwhelming the rings, and gunking up the combustion chamber. It just is not likley to do you any good whatever.

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I did not know that, I have no idea how big the capacity is in the tank.

I'll take your advice, thanks!

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