Bash plates

rockett88,

dude i'm braindead. that's right you told me to get works connection... it was my post. duh! ordering them now before i forget again.

here's another nail in the skid plate coffin. direct from the man himself:

"Kelly, I have always run the stock skid plate. I have never run an aluminum skid plate, because Campbell told me not to. They tested some aluminum skid plates, but Campbell said they resonate a lot of engine noise opposed to the stock skid plate. Basically it is loud enough to make you think something is wrong with your bike. Also the plastic one provides enough protection in most cases. If you land on a rock with the plastic one you can dent the lower frame tube, but if you land on a rock with the metal one the shock can crack the weld where the lover frame tube

connects to the main part of the frame."

i'd rather bend frame rails than crack frames. one of the guys i race with has gone through two frames because of running an aftermarket skid plate. he finally figured out why he was destroying them and went back to the plastic.

but, to each is own...

i should note that you have to have some confidence in your riding and be able to put the bike where you want it in order to stay with the stock skid plate.

i went through a lot of wheels, disks, and low slung parts until i learned to finese the bike more instead of just ramming it through stuff...

it's a hard lesson to learn when you have all that power under you and can just blast your way through a section.

but once you learn to put the bike where you want to you are gonna go through a lot less parts.

I have read something like that before. Something about the plastic plate actually absorbing some of the shock where the aluminum plate just transfers the shock.......... :)

I think Mr J. Campbell does a lot better job of being able to pick, and hold a line then I do. :)

My take is a bit different, for what its worth:

I run the Devol radiator guards. Love em. After the Vegas/Reno 5th gear crash I noticed i cracked one of the guards, but radiator is fine. Guess they work!! Hey Sunny- You on for the 300?

I tried the Campbell method of staying with the plastic down under, ended up with 2 holes in the bottom of the frame...now i have the XR's skid plate--when i hit stuff hard I crack the welds in the skidplate (twice now), but the frame is fine. Its amazing how skuffed up the bottom of that skid plate is-some HUGE gashes-as in I wonder if that rock would have gone thru the plastic and into the engine?- Johnny is right about reflecting the engine noise...but its not so bad.

Others go with the plastic and have success, so not sure whats best. Similar discussions are out there for the disc and chain guards.

-Mike

Well i think im sold on a better skidplate, lastnight i came off the top of a 70ft 50 degree slope, got about 4 feet of air and slammed down on a rocky berm :), bottomed hard, scored my stock plate half way through, no frame damage that i can tell, man am i glad im not riding a little bike that cant take that :D, hurt me more than the bike, i had ice in interesting places last night. The pig needs better foam on the tank :D. For highspeed low crash ratio per ride riding, that stock skidplate looks like it will take a hell of a beating a couple of times, but probably not repeatedly by the looks of it. oh well, it worked once, probably wont be there long enough to need to work again.

I have a great tip for Aluminum Skid Plates. I went down to Wal-Mart and bought a can of Dupli-Color Pickup Bedliner and spayed the inside of my plate. The bedliner is in the section for auto spray paint and for $6.50 it is enough to put a Line-X or Rhino-Liner type coating on the plate. This helps the chafing of the Al Plate on the Al Frame, and cuts the noise factor down a Bunch.

Scarry thing is after 1500 trail miles in Colorado I have at least a half a dozen spots where I can see the rock hits from the INSIDE of the plate!!! :)

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