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thestuz

Anyone having troubles with there 10?

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seems like there are never any posts of problems with the 10 model.

appart from gas in the fuel, bad oil drain bolt location.

are there any problems starting to develope with the 10 yet ?

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No problems to report here other than excessive rich condition in cold wheather which I'll be fixing soon with a thermostat install...post to come.

which really isn't a problem but a side effect of the FI system.

Edited by tech24

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Will prob start a thread on the specific probs with my 10'.

Valves are within spec, low hours on OEM top end, stock mapping, engine ice , fresh OEM clutch. I change the oil after every ride. No matter what oil I use, after as little as a 30 min ride, the oil is black and very thin. Its also a bitch to start when the motor is warm / hot. I've used the starting drill with a lil throttle and the choke pulled and it's on average 10-15 kicks! After it sits for a few minutes, then it's back to 1-3 kicks, tops.

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I got my 10 to start better by adding 10% fuel to startup using my PCV. 2-3 kicks now to get her going instead of 7 when cold.

I've had no cam cover gasket leaks or hot starting issues (I use the crack the throttle method starts every time).

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I got my 10 to start better by adding 10% fuel to startup using my PCV. 2-3 kicks now to get her going instead of 7 when cold.

I've had no cam cover gasket leaks or hot starting issues (I use the crack the throttle method starts every time).

you added fuel? Man I want to take some away but I guess for cold starts that helps. How does it start hot?

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I have to crack the throttle to start it when hot, this was before and after the fuel adjustment. THere was the odd time it would fire up, but it was the odd time. If I used the cold start knob on a hot start, it would also start up most of the time. But if I crack the throttle WHILE kicking on a hot engine, it will start every time.

I found that F*ing with the cold start knob when you want to get your bike started quick is just too much work, and cracking the throttle is the best and quickest way.

I do know though that every time I touch that cold start, the rad fins get rubbed by my hand and they are getting more and more bent all the time. Kind of annoing, a rear radiator guard for the left side would be a good idea.

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I have to crack the throttle to start it when hot, this was before and after the fuel adjustment. THere was the odd time it would fire up, but it was the odd time. If I used the cold start knob on a hot start, it would also start up most of the time. But if I crack the throttle WHILE kicking on a hot engine, it will start every time.

I found that F*ing with the cold start knob when you want to get your bike started quick is just too much work, and cracking the throttle is the best and quickest way.

I do know though that every time I touch that cold start, the rad fins get rubbed by my hand and they are getting more and more bent all the time. Kind of annoing, a rear radiator guard for the left side would be a good idea.

yeah that is annoying I really with I could figure out how to put a lever on that knob. Haven't noticed if I've be mashing the radiator fins but i'm gonna look now.

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yeah that is annoying I really with I could figure out how to put a lever on that knob. Haven't noticed if I've be mashing the radiator fins but i'm gonna look now.

That's a really good idea... Hmmmm...

Would it be possible to uh rig up an 00 hot start cable or something to it? You would have to make a brace for the cable, and then attach it to the lever.... The TB is plastic so drilling and tapping for a small mount could work...

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That's a really good idea... Hmmmm...

Would it be possible to uh rig up an 00 hot start cable or something to it? You would have to make a brace for the cable, and then attach it to the lever.... The TB is plastic so drilling and tapping for a small mount could work...

The idea as been running through my head over and over but I can't figure out a way to close it. Some kinda spring set up but not sure how to do it. I was really hoping a guy named brentn was gonna tell me he leaned the crap out of the start A/F ratio with the PC5 (not that I can afford one) and it starts first kick hot, cold, in gear, or not. But doesn't sound like thats the case If your not liking the cold start.

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I think for a fuel injected bike, it's impossible for it to start in one kick when the engine is cold. I've got it down to 3, I think that's pretty good.

If you are curious about the PCV and have anything that you want me to try, let me know and I'll give it a shot and report back...

For the cold start lever, wouldn't the cable itself be enough to push the knob back in if the cable was mounted directly into the face of the knob?

btw, I haven't tried the cold start knob on a hot engine since the fuel adjustment... will do very shortly here.

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I think for a fuel injected bike, it's impossible for it to start in one kick when the engine is cold. I've got it down to 3, I think that's pretty good.

If you are curious about the PCV and have anything that you want me to try, let me know and I'll give it a shot and report back...

For the cold start lever, wouldn't the cable itself be enough to push the knob back in if the cable was mounted directly into the face of the knob?

Yeah with no charge in the capacitor I agree it wont start but I was really curious if you leaned it out if it will start without cracking the throttle or pulling the knob out. Its only my theory that its super rich for hot starts but it may be an idle thing I don't know. It may not start well cold if you do that I guess, but I haven't had to kick too many times like you have so I don't know. You don't have to try anything on my account.

As far as the cable deal it might close it that way. I forgot about the spring on the end of the cable as its been a while since I've see one. I have one off my '04 somewhere in my many boxes'o'dirtbike. I'll see if I can come up with something but I'm not a good inventor....lol

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When I talked to dyno jet and told them about the starting issues when cold they told me to add 10% fuel and see what happens. Bike starts easier now.

For hot starts however, this should make it worse, but when I crack the throttle to start I haven't noticed.

There is an option to have the fuel trimmed for starting based on temperature, but you need to use a 5V sensor which I do not have. The bikes sensor I believe is 12 or 14V, so it will not work if I try and bring a lead from the coolant sensor to the PCV.

I'm going for a good ride tomorrow, so I'll see how it starts hot with the adjustment. It should be worse, but is it possible that it's also too lean when hot? I'll know tomorrow.

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When I talked to dyno jet and told them about the starting issues when cold they told me to add 10% fuel and see what happens. Bike starts easier now.

For hot starts however, this should make it worse, but when I crack the throttle to start I haven't noticed.

There is an option to have the fuel trimmed for starting based on temperature, but you need to use a 5V sensor which I do not have. The bikes sensor I believe is 12 or 14V, so it will not work if I try and bring a lead from the coolant sensor to the PCV.

I'm going for a good ride tomorrow, so I'll see how it starts hot with the adjustment. It should be worse, but is it possible that it's also too lean when hot? I'll know tomorrow.

I suppose anythings possible, my reason for thinking its too rich is that adding a tad more air fires it up and the fact that it floods easy but i'm not 100% on that. That self adjusting starting fuel trim sounds nice.....great more things I want now :thumbsup:

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