02 wr426 leak/fuel screw setting

Hey everyone! New to four strokes but not bikes. Had a couple of simple tech questions.

I just picked up an 02 426 from a good friend of mine and had two questions. The first one is it looks like I'm leaking a little coolant from the hose that comes off of the right side radiator. It connects to a metal tube which is held to another tube by a tab with a bolt, is there an o ring in there or something that could be causing the leak?

My second question is what is the stock setting for the fuel screw on the bottom of the carb? I had to mess with it a little bit to get it to idle this morning, its about 30 degrees here in raleigh nc, and also where is the normal idle screw that just opens the butterfly a little more, and what is its stock setting?

Thanks guys, I hope I can help as much as I receive help!! :thumbsup:

Your first question is not too clear.

Stock setting is about 1-3/4 turns. But then you adjust from there for your bike, your temp/altitude/humidity.

Fuel screw settings in the 'book' are recommended starting points. Every bike is different, as is the temp and altitude. Set the screw according to this method. Do it with the bike fully heated up.

Gently turn the screw all the way in. Now back it out two turns. Start the bike and fully warm it up, go for a 10 minute ride. Set the idle to speed to 1,500~1,800 RPM as best you can (I know, without a tach this is tough, just set it to were it idles relatively smoothly). Once warmed, slow the idle to the lowest possible speed.

*** When turning the fuel screw, keep an accurate 'count' of the amount you are turning it and record it in case you have to reset it for some reason. Makes life easier when you can just set it from notes Vs. going through the procedure again.***

Turn the screw in until the idle becomes rough or the bike stalls.

if it stalled, open the screw about 1/4 more turn. Restart it and slowly screw it in till you can just perceive a change.

If the screw can be turned all the way in and the bike still idles perfectly and does not stall, then you need to go down a size in pilot jet.

Now very slowly, open the fuel screw till the idle is smooth. Blip the throttle, let the bike return to an idle, wait say ten seconds. Confirm it is the same smooth idle.

If the screw has to be opened more than 3 turns to get a smooth idle, you need to go up a size in pilot jet.

If you find it does not stall with the larger jet but has to be open more than three turns with the smaller pilot jet, put the larger one in and set the fuel screw at 1/2 turn.

If the idle speed increased, adjust the idle speed knob to return the bike to a real slow idle speed. You must then re-visit the fuel screw. Keep doing this till the fuel screw is opened just enough to provide a nice steady idle at the lowest possible RPM. Once this is done, increase the idle speed to the normal one for your bike, typically about 1,800 rpm, but go by the spec in your manual.

Idle speed the is the black plastic knurled knob on the side.

Your first question is not too clear.

Stock setting is about 1-3/4 turns. But then you adjust from there for your bike, your temp/altitude/humidity.

Fuel screw settings in the 'book' are recommended starting points. Every bike is different, as is the temp and altitude. Set the screw according to this method. Do it with the bike fully heated up.

Gently turn the screw all the way in. Now back it out two turns. Start the bike and fully warm it up, go for a 10 minute ride. Set the idle to speed to 1,500~1,800 RPM as best you can (I know, without a tach this is tough, just set it to were it idles relatively smoothly). Once warmed, slow the idle to the lowest possible speed.

*** When turning the fuel screw, keep an accurate 'count' of the amount you are turning it and record it in case you have to reset it for some reason. Makes life easier when you can just set it from notes Vs. going through the procedure again.***

Turn the screw in until the idle becomes rough or the bike stalls.

if it stalled, open the screw about 1/4 more turn. Restart it and slowly screw it in till you can just perceive a change.

If the screw can be turned all the way in and the bike still idles perfectly and does not stall, then you need to go down a size in pilot jet.

Now very slowly, open the fuel screw till the idle is smooth. Blip the throttle, let the bike return to an idle, wait say ten seconds. Confirm it is the same smooth idle.

If the screw has to be opened more than 3 turns to get a smooth idle, you need to go up a size in pilot jet.

If you find it does not stall with the larger jet but has to be open more than three turns with the smaller pilot jet, put the larger one in and set the fuel screw at 1/2 turn.

If the idle speed increased, adjust the idle speed knob to return the bike to a real slow idle speed. You must then re-visit the fuel screw. Keep doing this till the fuel screw is opened just enough to provide a nice steady idle at the lowest possible RPM. Once this is done, increase the idle speed to the normal one for your bike, typically about 1,800 rpm, but go by the spec in your manual.

Idle speed the is the black plastic knurled knob on the side.

Thanks! I'll be adjusting it tomorrow. As for the first question, if you are looking at the right side of the bike (side w/exhaust) and you follow the bottom of the radiator there is a hose. The hose connects to a metal tube via hoseclamp. This metal tube then slides into another metal tube and it looks like there is a tab w/a bolt that holds it in. I'm getting a small leak of coolant around it. My best guess was that there must be an o ring on the tube or something??

Ah... you mean "Tee" #12, oring #14 in this:

RADIATOR_HOSE.Gif

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