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KGSloan

2004 WR450 won't fire - sat in storage five years

51 posts in this topic

hey guys,

new to the site, not new to riding, but very new to riding dirtbikes.

I've been looking to get into something new, had the itch to be able to really "play" around and thought a dirtbike would be a good new challenge.

I found this low hour (10 total hours) 2004 WR450F from a friend who bought it to learn to ride on before he moved on to harleys. This thing is basically new, the rear tire still has tits, clutch cover doesn't have any scratches, everything is tight. good price too :thumbsup:

IMG_5960.jpg

I got it home, changed the fluids, and then tied to kick it over. no go, won't fire. It sat with the fuel in the "on" position the last five years and hasn't been run, the bike was not prepared for storage but it was in a climate controlled warehouse (local HD dealer was previous owner). The battery is dead, but the lights turn on when you really get after kicking it over. I will put a new battery in it later today :p

Any ideas where to start? I've got the service manual and i like a project - so here we go....

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Clean the carb...its very easy! Count the turns to seat the air screw..remove the bowl, be careful not to mess with the float height. the jets should come right out. clean everything and blow the Jets out with compressed air.

Make sure you do all of the FREE mods to wake it up.

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Take a close look at the pilot jet: there should be rows of tiny holes on the sides of the jet that are visible.

Starting: Cold: Three or four wacks of the throttle, choke on (70 degrees or below), and press(kick). No throttle till the motor is warm (2-3min). Go.

Warm: press (kick) and go

Hot: press (kick) and pull in hot start lever momentarily.

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Your jets are clogged. Pull the carb and take out the jets and using a small piece of brass wire clean the holes on the jets while using carb cleaner. You can cut up a piece of electrical wire and use one of the small brass strands to clean out the holes. Don't use any other metal or you can scratch the jets.

You can also pick up yamaha carb dip and after removing the rubber pieces from the carb let it sit in a bucket of this stuff if it's really dirty and it will get cleaned right up. You still need to clean the jets though.

Also dump out all the old fuel from the tank and put in fresh fuel. :p

Carb dip:

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/outdoor/apparel/apscitemdetail/3/124/all/4/322/detail.aspx

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I vote for just replacing the jets... they are clearly gummed up, and sometimes you THINK you got them clean and you didn't... you reassemble, and it still doesn't work right (or at all)

New fuel, and put the old fuel in your lawnmower

replace the plug, oil and air filter too

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I vote for just replacing the jets... they are clearly gummed up, and sometimes you THINK you got them clean and you didn't... you reassemble, and it still doesn't work right (or at all)

New fuel, and put the old fuel in your lawnmower

replace the plug, oil and air filter too

i was kinda thinking that might be a good idea too, I'll have to look at what a jet kit costs but i would think it's not more than $50 or so?

I bought some of the yamaha carburator dip so I will use that tomorrow on it...thanks DMCCOY

I also bought a rebuild kit for the pet cock as it leaks in "res" position. replaced the spart plug and put the new battery in and she cranks over nice, but that's all :p

I have a hot date with my amazing girlfriend tonight so I had to stop messing with it...that was tough because the weather looks to be nice tomorrow and i would MUCH rather be riding it than wrenching :thumbsup:

here we go :mad:

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It goes beyond the jets guys. The accelerator pump is probably full of varnish and needs to be taken apart, cleaned, and then slapped back on!

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Clean the whole carb ot properly...Take it all apart then clean it with carb cleaners and compressed air....Done

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so, i got the carburator off and have it mostly appart (pain in the ass taking off bolts that havn't been touched in so many years....i'm becoming very familiar with my drill :p )

I'm stuck though - I can't get the needle valve out of the carb body...is there some sort of trick to it? The manual is lacking in description...it's the "needle" valve that connects to the float inside the bow of the carb.

any help is appreciated!

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Why do you need to remove it? just let the whole carb sit in solvent and then blow air from the bowl side. the valve just has wire screen to block hard debris, it doesn't need to be removed. and I think it is lightly pressed inside.

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so, i got the carburator off and have it mostly appart (pain in the ass taking off bolts that havn't been touched in so many years....i'm becoming very familiar with my drill :p )

Replace all with alan screws and put a touch of anti seize on the threads

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well i got the needle valve out - it is seriosly crudded up, everything is.

i have all of it soaking in some yamaha carburator dip to remove the varnish and crud, I will let it soak for 24 hours and will then blow everything out with compressed air and carb spray cleaner.

then attemp reassembly :p

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well i got the needle valve out - it is seriosly crudded up, everything is.

i have all of it soaking in some yamaha carburator dip to remove the varnish and crud, I will let it soak for 24 hours and will then blow everything out with compressed air and carb spray cleaner.

then attemp reassembly :p

I have never used Yamaha carb dip but if its like automotive carb dip you don't want it soaking that long. It can damage some of the parts. I usually soak during lunch and rinse with hose water first than blow dry. I don't want to breathe the mist or get it on my skin. I have been rebuilding Honda car carbs sence 93.

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I removed all the rubber gaskets from the carb (which is why I dissasembled the entire thing). The only piece of rubber left anywhere on it was around where there throttle shaft seals by the TPS...I have a hundred little pieces of a carb floating around my workbench, should be fun putting it all back together tonight :mad:

I was told when talking to the guys the yama dealer that they sometimes let the carb soak for two or three days in the dip when it's really nasty (and this one was really bad, i'll post some pics of the crud later). Of course, they said to make sure I take off all rubber before letting it soak (which I did, all plastic too from the throttles and TPS). They even went as far as to say they will heat the solution with a propane torch to boil all the rest of the crud out...

I'm hoping for the best, and that this carb will be fine once it's all put back together. I guess I will have to learn how to set the TPS too since I removed that from the carb body...I will know this bike very well by the time I have it up and running right again :thumbsup::p

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so i've got the thing almost all back together and am on one of the last adjustments and don't understand....maybe you all can clear things up.

Accelerator pump timing adjustment:

I set the throttle valve height to 3mm...

now it says to:

1)"fully turn in the accelerator pump adjusting screw" - i'm assuming this means all the way bottomed out

2)"check that the link lever has free play by pushing on it lightly" - once i bottom out the screw all the way there really isn't any free play in the link lever

3)"gradually turn out the adjusting screw wile moving the link lever until it has no more free play" - well, if i turn the screw "out" (counterclockwise) then the link lever starts to get more free play in it

I don't understand this adjustment procedure, everything else was easy enough on the rebuild (i think at least). can someone clear up how to adjust this lever/rod?

thanks!

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well i had left the cover off of the float chamber because i ordered a new gasket (not here) but i went ahead and installed the cover with the old gasket and then the procedure made sense...would would of thought you would need the accelerator pump installed to properly adjust the setting :p

yeah, i'm a total newb with carbs :thumbsup::mad: it even says so below my user name up there :bonk:

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You're doing just fine; carbs are a black art for many like wheelbuilding. At least now you'll know everything about your jetting, and will probably be able to tune the WRF perfectly very soon and diagnose anything wrong.

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