2010 yz 450 valve wear

How have the valves been holding up in the 2010? Older five valves were never an issue.

30 hours. B rider. Fairly high revs. Still tight.

And even if they weren't, re-shimming these things are a breeze. Such easy access.

24 hours, low-mid revs, no change at all.

To get to the valves was extremely easy, I was really really impressed with how easy it was to do any kind of cam work or valve adjusting.

24 hours, low-mid revs, no change at all.

To get to the valves was extremely easy, I was really really impressed with how easy it was to do any kind of cam work or valve adjusting.

Yamaha def thought it through. Kudos

+1 no movement!!!!!!!!!

^how many hours, what kind of riding?

^how many hours, what kind of riding?

me? just about exactly what you got 23 hr mostly low revs woods but I also have ran several 18 mile loops with some high rpms and long steady revs.

30 hours. B rider. Fairly high revs. Still tight.

And even if they weren't, re-shimming these things are a breeze. Such easy access.

Is there anything you need to be careful about when taking the valve cover off? The reason I ask is cause mine hasnt ever leaked around the cover like most peoples have in the past and I'm worried that when I take the cover off to check the valves mine will start leaking.

Is there anything you need to be careful about when taking the valve cover off? The reason I ask is cause mine hasnt ever leaked around the cover like most peoples have in the past and I'm worried that when I take the cover off to check the valves mine will start leaking.

Nope gasket just pulls right off with cover. It sticks a little where the sealer is in the cam cut out things. After looking at mine I really don't see how they could have problems leaking, sure is a heavy duty gasket. I think the ones that leaked had to have another issue and if yours doesn't leak I don't think it ever will.

Nope gasket just pulls right off with cover. It sticks a little where the sealer is in the cam cut out things. After looking at mine I really don't see how they could have problems leaking, sure is a heavy duty gasket. I think the ones that leaked had to have another issue and if yours doesn't leak I don't think it ever will.

Thanks!... I'll be checking it I guess tomorrow. Today I took the clutch cover off and miked the springs and plates. All was good at 31.3 hours,the limit on the springs free length is (49.0mm) and the lowest of mine was 49.19

The friction plate wear limit is (0.110 in). I checked the first on at the end and one in the middle and they were at 0.119 + or - a thousandth.

The clutch Basket looked good. They were no notching in the fingers (just black spots where the plates laid against). The clutch boss looked good as well and no notching in it either.

I raced 18 rounds of MX this year with my 2010 model and had several practices with it also. I rev'ed it pretty good at times and tried not to use the clutch around turns but some turns you just had to feather the clutch some to get around them.

I'm a B rider so I'm hopeing to get another season out of the clutch. I'll just have to see how it feels when next june rolls around.

I was wondering if I replaced the Friction plates and steel plates and the clutch springs if I would get longer wear out of the basket?

Went ahead and checked the valve clearence at 31.3 hours on it. I couldnt believe how easy it was to get to the valves. my 06 i had was way to much trouble cause you had to take the tank off,fuel line,four cover bolts,seat.

My 2010 I just took the seat off and that black plastic cover over the head.

I could slide the 0.10mm gauge under the intake rather easy but the 0.15 wouldnt even begin to go under and thats with a little force.

On th exhaust side the 0.20 went in with the right amount of drag the next size wouldnt go.

I just hope they keep holding up and not get out of adjustment. I put some hard riding in and thought they would be way out of adjustment.

I love yamaha's :p

Looks like yammy did it again with this new head to no suprise. I'll keep posted with my 300 hr check...:p

There was a guy on here with 100 hours and no movement.

300 hours would be pushing it, but with good oil, oil filter and air filter maint this could be achieved IMO.

There was a guy on here with 100 hours and no movement.

.

Guessing that your refering to me with that comment. And yep!

What kind of riding and revs do you do aedwards?

Ride B class MX.Usually ride 2 to 3 times a week and a day or 2 on the weekend.As for revs usually alot.haha

What are your air filter and oil change intervals?

Do you use the stock filter, twin air, dt1??

I have 2 Unis,a moose,stock,and a No toil.Moose and Uni are my favorites.Change the air filter every ride.I use No toil evo filter oil.I change the oil every 2 hours with rotella.

I have 2 Unis,a moose,stock,and a No toil.Moose and Uni are my favorites.Change the air filter every ride.I use No toil evo filter oil.I change the oil every 2 hours with rotella.

No toil air filter oil and a petroleum oil in the motor makes me cringe. This is why I never buy a used dirtbike

Lets not turn this into a synthetic versus dyno oil debate, and/or what oil to use for a filter debate either...

Obviously it's working for him, he's had zero adjustments in 100 hours.

I think he changes his oil too much, but maybe that's why his engine is perfect?? He may change it frequently because the high revs and temps call for it.

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