how to get the engine to start faster

disconnect the blue / white wire out of the cdi and it'll fire instantly - guaranteed

I would not guarantee it.... my opinion is it's a valid mod and I have done it on two different bikes now and will continue to recommend it but it won't compensate for jetting issues, tight valves or a YZ exhaust cam....

I would not guarantee it.... my opinion is it's a valid mod and I have done it on two different bikes now and will continue to recommend it but it won't compensate for jetting issues, tight valves or a YZ exhaust cam....

Don can you post a picture of it on your 07+ bike? Ive looked before and but must of missed the wire...:smirk::bonk:B)

so what ive seemed to learn from all this is that removing the blue wires makes the cdi think the bike is in 1st gear and advances the timing to make the engine rev a bit higher against the drag of the tranny when the clutch lever is pulled in and the bike is stopped. So, wouldnt starting the bike in 1st gear and clutch lever pulled in do the same as cutting the wire? would it make the bike fire up quicker?

I would not guarantee it.... my opinion is it's a valid mod and I have done it on two different bikes now and will continue to recommend it but it won't compensate for jetting issues, tight valves or a YZ exhaust cam....

Sorry - should have been more clear

As long as your bike starts fine, and very easily on the kick, this mod will allow it to start instantly on the button as well instead of having the two dead cycles before you get a spark

so what ive seemed to learn from all this is that removing the blue wires makes the cdi think the bike is in 1st gear and advances the timing to make the engine rev a bit higher against the drag of the tranny when the clutch lever is pulled in and the bike is stopped. So, wouldn't starting the bike in 1st gear and clutch lever pulled in do the same as cutting the wire? would it make the bike fire up quicker?

erm.... no!

When pressing the magic button, the CDI gets a -ve feed down to ground via the blue and white wire. Upon sensing this, it stops the ignition from producing a spark for the first two cycles of the engine. With the Blue/white wire disconnected it thinks the engine is being turned over with the kick start and hence the plug fires from the first cycle, which if your bike is jetted right and the valve clearances are ok will result in it firing straight up without the two cycle delay

I tried this mod today and it does indeed work, it certainly helps when the battery is a bit low in this cold weather. cheers :smirk:

Don can you post a picture of it on your 07+ bike? Ive looked before and but must of missed the wire...:smirk::bonk:B)

Yeah, but it will be a few days... keep an eye on the thread.

Don can you post a picture of it on your 07+ bike? Ive looked before and but must of missed the wire...:smirk::bonk:B)

Male half of the 6 pin connector, it is blu/wht directly next to the grey wire.

NOTE: This wire is blu/blk on the female side of the 6 pin connector.

DSCN0462.jpg?t=1294885474

Let us know what YOU think.

Where is that plug?

if its by the control box its behind the left number plate by the seat at least mine is on a 09 different years are in different places as I understand , some are under the fuel tank I believe.

Male half of the 6 pin connector, it is blu/wht directly next to the grey wire.

NOTE: This wire is blu/blk on the female side of the 6 pin connector.

DSCN0462.jpg?t=1294885474

Let us know what YOU think.

Having just re-read the original thread, to clear things up this is not the wire that William1 is talking about, but is the wire people refer to in the original post. I think it is Blue/Black on the other connector, not going to the neutral switch, but headed to the starter relay?

my 0.02$

Having just re-read the original thread, to clear things up this is not the wire that William1 is talking about, but is the wire people refer to in the original post. I think it is Blue/Black on the other connector, not going to the neutral switch, but headed to the starter relay?

my 0.02$

Is this a question or a 2 cent opinion?

Is this a question or a 2 cent opinion?

Seems like there has been confusion over which wire, resulting in some controversy over the potential effectiveness of this. That happened in the original thread that I read with grayracer13, back in 2007. William1 seems to be a competent source of good info, seemed odd that he says that it shouldn't do anything yet others swear by it.

Simply trying to point out where the controversy is coming from.

? is cause I don't know where the blue/black wire in the harness connector goes to. I don't have a schematic in front of me, thought I remember the starter relay.

There is a lot of great info here, also some mis-information. My attempt was to help those who try to sort through that as I often do.

The question is why is it that the CDI only fires on the third stroke with the button? Why did yamaha desighn it like that? there must be a reason for this ?

Anyone with info?

Perhaps it is to allow the starter motor time to get the engine spinning fast enough

Unless someone from the factory posts on here, its unlikely you;ll get the defintive answer

No other bike I've owned (dirt or road) does this so I'm at a loss as to why they did it

However, I've done numerous test starts with mine, and as long as the battery is fully charged there don't seem to be problem

I can say this.... someone, some where, at some time researched this wire and it's function and leaked the mod to the world.... I guess it's possible that it happened inadvertently with a Grey wire mod gone bad, (clipped the wrong wire), and someone observed these results but thats unlikely...

I have all the respect in the world for the Yamaha 4T experts on this forum (William and Gray Racer) but no one is going to convince me that it does not do anything directly or indirectly to the process by which these bikes e-start:excuseme:

As far as detrimental side effects? I have had this mod on two bikes now starting in late 07' and have had nothing fail or show unusual signs indicating that something is not right...

Guess and speculate all you want, I'd rather do the mod and ride it :smirk:

Male half of the 6 pin connector, it is blu/wht directly next to the grey wire.

NOTE: This wire is blu/blk on the female side of the 6 pin connector.

[/img]

Let us know what YOU think.

Ok I found it for sure this time...but Im pretty sure that is the same wire I pulled last time I tried. Any ways, Im going riding on Saturday and will test and report back.

Today I spent the day fix a nicked fork tube, replacing seals and taking valving pictures for DaveJ :smirk:

does it kill the ignition for 2 cycles if the magic button is pressed with the engine running, and hence the engine cuts out?

Today I spent the day fix a nicked fork tube :

Nail polish????

I removed he blue white wire in the plug cdi side -- Bike no start......

Replace wire bike starts 3 cycle e start and first kick, kick start.

Was this duff gen given about this mod?

This mod does not work.

Seems like there has been confusion over which wire, resulting in some controversy over the potential effectiveness of this. That happened in the original thread that I read with grayracer513, back in 2007.
It did indeed. It's easy to see how the confusion could happen, since the color of that circuit changes multiple times, and is the same as part of the neutral switch circuit.

The neutral switch circuit on the harness side of the CDI connector is shown as being EITHER sky blue, or blue/white. However, the lead this wire connects to at the CDI is sky blue only. There is a blue/white lead coming from the CDI, separate from the sky blue lead. This lead connects across the connector to a blue/black wire, which connects to yet another blue/white wire at a point between the starter relay and the the relay diode pair. This makes the CDI aware of current flowing between the relay and diode, so it does in fact "know when the button is pushed".

I have no first hand knowledge of whether this works as advertised or not, but any argument against it based on anything to do with the neutral switch is inoperative on its face; the two are NOT related.

Either way, the point that the bike has to be tuned correctly is valid. Going by what Don has said, it's worth trying at the least.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now