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Sheridan450F

Lower oil filter drain bolt help, not stripped ... yet!

19 posts in this topic

Ok guys so my lower drain bolt on the oil filter cover goes so far then gets really tough to turn, and it's not even flush with anything. I'm guessing theres something in the threads and I really don't want to strip it out like I did the drain bolt on the other side a few months ago! HAHA!

So I'm basically frozen on this step as I've drained all the oil and am in process of putting the oil cover and bolts back in. Any suggestions on how to make sure I don't strip this and get the threads cleaned out?

Seems like people have problems and end up stripping this bolt so I do not want to be one of them!

Thanks!

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The reason you're having trouble with that bottom bolt is because Yamaha had a brain fart when they were coming up with a way to "help" the end user. Filings from your engine settle at the bottom of the cavity where your oil filter is, and if you look you'll see a hole that leads from that cavity to the threads for that bottom cover bolt.

The filings (yes, we all have them) settle into the threads and cause the binding that you're experiencing now. Metal on metal is never a good thing, especially shavings in bolt hole threads. You might be screwed already, but in case you're able to get that bolt back out do this :

14a.jpg

Here's how (this is in the sticky at the top of the forum) :

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=634724

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Hey thanks for the reply! I managed to work it in and out a few times and it eventually went all the way flush. I'm hoping it's in there tight enough, if I see any leakage I'l do what you suggested. I remember seeing that sticky before just don't really think I want to mess with it. Knowing me I'd mess it up somehow lol

Thanks again! Going to go wash it and then run her again and see if I see any oil leaking out of any of the drain bolts. I'm really nervous about tightening them down ever since I snapped one off in the case :smirk: LOL

:excuseme:

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No problem, if you really don't like the idea of drilling & tapping a ball-bearing into your case cover you can always fill that hole with some JB Weld. It will serve the same purpose and you won't have any trouble stripping that bottom bolt.

Good luck !! :excuseme:

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If you don't block that hole off, you will have this same problem again and again. At the least, you will need to chase the threads with a tap before running the bolt in.

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yep, mine just stripped on my '01 YZ426 the other day. got it snug enough so it does not leak. I will be helicoiling it next oil change.

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Just wondering. Since this seems to be a pretty common issue, do you think shops are aware of this and have the capability to do it for people? (Talking about plugging the hole with something) I couldn't see it taking someone very long at all who knows what they are doing.

I doubt I would actually take it somewhere and have them do it, I like to do things myself even if I'm really apprehensive about it lol Just curious if shops have experience with this. Has Yamaha said anything? Did they change the design at all?

Since this is my thread.... A pic of my 450 with the new #'s!

73426_1655855522661_1425282472_31765277_2254339_n.jpg

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Nice. Now if they could just separate the engine oil from the tranny oil...:smirk:

or a DI 250 2st...:excuseme:

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Wish I could afford the 2010 haha! I'l have this 07 for awhile.

I started her up and ran her around the neighborhood a bit and checked all the bolts for signs of leakage. None whatsoever! So I'l review that sticky thoroughly and deal with the issue next oil change.

BTW, has there been determined a size ball bearing to use without drilling? I'd really love to just punch something in there and not drill. Me with a drill can get kinda scary haha! How FLUSH does the ball need to be? I dont see why it couldn't stick up some.

Edited by Sheridan450F

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Yamaha did change the design in the 2010 model. The problematic drain port has been eliminated.

Gray,

Will JB weld work just as well?? I'm also a little nervous about drilling into my case.....

thanks!

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Gray,

Will JB weld work just as well?? I'm also a little nervous about drilling into my case.....

thanks!

No. Read the sticky.

I've seen guys patch 1/8" holes & cracks in aluminum cases on road-race bikes before, and have seen them last throughout an entire race season. If the hole is cleaned well enough - remove all remaining oil, then JB weld would work.

It would be a good idea to remove the right side case cover, to ensure that you can clean the hole well enough.

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I've seen guys patch 1/8" holes & cracks in aluminum cases on road-race bikes before, and have seen them last throughout an entire race season. If the hole is cleaned well enough - remove all remaining oil, then JB weld would work.

It would be a good idea to remove the right side case cover, to ensure that you can clean the hole well enough.

Installing the ball will take 1/10 the time to do, and be far more certain to work. It would even be cheaper, assuming you owned neither the ball or the JB.

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Yeah, I thought about using JB Weld for a half second, then realized what I was thinking about lol

I would so love to counter seat a ball in there but surely there is a ball that would fit snug without having to drill? Right? Something has got to be the right diameter.

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You could determine that for yourself. Gauge the hole diameter by inserting drill bits until you find one the size of the current hole, then see what size ball might be available. You want at least .005" interference, but no more than say .012" ideally. The commonly available 3/16" balls are too large without drilling, and I think someone looked into using a 5/32" (0.15625") ball and found it wouldn't work either. It does seem like there would be something, though.

The only real negative about drilling a counter bore for the ball is that it requires the removal of the header for access by the drill. If your concern is that you will drill too deep, and that you don't have the skill to prevent it, use a drill bushing.

Drill bushings are nothing more than a piece of tubing placed over the drill bit to allow only a certain amount of the bit to be exposed, thus limiting the depth of the hole the drill can bore. You can make one out of anything as stiff as PVC, and even tape a stack of nuts or washers together for the purpose. drop the bushing on and set the drill in the chuck so as to leave 1/4" exposed, and you won't be able to drill any father than that.

Also remember that if the threads are bad enough to need repair, installing a Heli-Coil or Time-Sert will close off the drain hole anyway, and plugging it from inside the well won't be necessary.

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I believe my threads are fine right now, I will know for sure next oil change. However, I plan to address this issue next time anyway. I got two 3/16" bearings for 33 cents from the bike shop just in case I do end up drilling. In the meantime I plan to look for something a bit smaller to plug it with.

Might sound crazy, but couldn't there be something soft and flexible that could be squished in there? Just trying to think outside the box a bit. Something along the lines of that plumbers wire stuff (haha), or a rubber grommet of some sort?

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You don't want something that will deteriorate or work loose. Really, your fear of drilling the case is unfounded. Get a scrap of aluminum drill a couple of holes the size of the drain hole, and enlarge the top end of them to the next drill size for practice using a bushing. You'll get the hang of it and make all your mistakes with something that doesn't matter.

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Not really worried about the drilling too deep part, its the drilling and then chipping and totally making a mess in there that I'm worried about. I reckon I can do it, I just like to over analyze things haha! I'd do it tomorrow if I could but I just changed the oil so I have time to let my mind wander and entertain all possibilities.

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