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Shred Jesse

Proper winter storage of WR400F? Specifically, emptying carbs!

21 posts in this topic

Hey everyone,

So I live in Oregon, and while there's a decent amount of people who ride for most the year, I've got snowboarding coming up and don't expect to be able to juggle the two.

Anyways, I'm just curious what the proper winterization process is for this bike.

As per my subject line, the most notable question I have is concerning emptying the carbs. Given the accelerator pump in the bottom sits extra low, I'm envisioning that when I empty the curb, fuel remains inside the accelerator pump. Is this so? If so, how do I entirely drain the carb?

Thanks in advance,

Jesse

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A dry carb is the best way to store the bike. To facilitate that, you want to remove the float bowl and AP chamber cover.

If that is not feasible, Stabil (2X rec. Dose) in a fuel can, well mixed. Drain the existing fuel, refill with the new mix, run the bike at least fifteen minutes, top of the tank and store.

Do not forget about keeping the battery warnm and on a tender.

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Okay, so I take off the ap plate on the bottom of the carb with the float bowl removed to properly drain the carb?

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Yup, then it will be perfect come spring. Fill the tank with fresh fuel, tap on, wait 30 seconds, tilt the bike for two scronds, choke, two kicks and it will be purring.

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I've always gone the "stabil" route myself with no issues. I run the bike for 15 min or so to make sure it's all through the carb, and then I drain the tank and put the gas into my truck. I leave the tank off the bike until spring, and make sure to check it for condensation before re-installing in the spring. I also block off the gas line to the carb

I have had some considerable amounts of water come out of the frame oil drain when I drain it in the spring from condensation and I almost think that leaving the carb full (with stabilized gas of course) could be better then having the carb "dry" in my enviromental conditions (Eastern Canada has nasty winters with BIG tempature swings.).

I would be curious as to ppl's thoughts on the merits of this, or, am I completely out to lunch...

lol

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A dry carb is the best way to store the bike. To facilitate that, you want to remove the float bowl and AP chamber cover.

If that is not feasible, Stabil (2X rec. Dose) in a fuel can, well mixed. Drain the existing fuel, refill with the new mix, run the bike at least fifteen minutes, top of the tank and store.

Do not forget about keeping the battery warnm and on a tender.

Am I missing something??

Why not just use the drain screw on the left side of the float bowl?

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Am I missing something??

Why not just use the drain screw on the left side of the float bowl?

Drain screw still leaves a teaspoon or so in the carb. Also it drains zilch from the AP. It is fine if the carb need to be emptied to swap jets or get water out from a dunking (though the 17mm cap still should be removed too.)

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I simply make sure that the engine oil is fresh, I stabilize the fuel and run it good to circulate it, make sure the tank is fully topped off, drain the bowl with the screw, put it on the stand so the tires are not on the concrete and put a tender on the battery. Never an issue. Oh, I cork the exhaust too.

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I am fortunate and able to ride a little bit at least once a month.

I do not drain my fuel, I put stabilizer in it, in fact, my 5 gal. can always has stabilizer in it.

But for an extended storage or storage inside a home (like in the basement or suspended from the ceiling over the bed), I rec. draining the fuel.

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I am fortunate and able to ride a little bit at least once a month.

I do not drain my fuel, I put stabilizer in it, in fact, my 5 gal. can always has stabilizer in it.

But for an extended storage or storage inside a home (like in the basement or suspended from the ceiling over the bed), I rec. draining the fuel.

Mine never sits all winter long either. We always get nice breaks throughout the season where at the very least, I can get some dual sporting in.

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Unfortunatly, mine is relegated to the unheated garage, and subjected to the temp swings.

I'm glad you posted the link to the winterization post though, as I have been leaving my oil change to spring. I'll now start changing the oil as part of my putting it away for the winter drill, but I'll still be dropping the fresh oil in the spring due to the fact that I always find water (not mixed in the oil, it is always seprate and drains first before the oil) in my frame tank.

No biggie though, whats the price of a liter of oil in the grand scheme of things......

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Always, Mi, Ak, and now Flagstaff, dirt and street bikes, fuel stabilizer , ride every 4-6 weeks for 30 minutes. Yes, I've slide, last winters storm 60" snow + 2" rain, but keeps everything working. Never bought a battery for a bike I bought new, and never more than one for a bike bought used. This was sometimes 8 years.

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i have never had a problem just leaving the bike for 6 months how it was. kick it over and go. fuel lasts a lot longer then people say.

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Not in the US.

60 days and it begins to sour. 60 days and it is not fuel anymore. 90 days and it acts like water.

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thats what you get for using ethanol! pillage the environment i say, id rather have good fuel!

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I use stabilizer in my fuel, letting the rubber components in a carb dry repeatedly just calls for more carb rebuilds over time. Start my bike every 2-4 weeks on that odd good day you tend to get every once in a while and run/ride it for 15 minutes to replace the fuel in the carb with better stuff from the tank, make sure you rev it because you want what's in the A/P to be replaced as well.

Never had a problem doing this with any bike 2 or 4 stroke.

My neighbour just puts his in the shed without doing anything to it and regrets it every spring when he tries to get it running right.

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Sounds simple enough. Just fill the tank, and run it perioidically over the winter for 15 minutes. It's plated, but surely not street legal, haha. I'll run around on it a bit here and there to keep fuel moving!

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