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HP

Forks in tripleclamps

12 posts in this topic

How much if any are your forks pushed up into the triple clamps? I brought my '99 WR used and am not sure where stock is or where the best position is. Right now, I have about 5mm of tube(not including the cap)showing above the top clamp. I ride mountain trails and desert. My last ride, the front seemed to push the turns a little. Not sure if it is me not getting up on the tank enough or my front tire or the geometry.

Any help?

HP

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Pushing the forks up into the TC will help turning. Are you still running the stock 739 front tire? Are you running a YZ style tank? This will allow you to move forward on the bike, to weight the front wheel better, for more bite.

Good luck

Bill

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97 KDX220, 86 TTR225, 99 WR400f, WR timing, throttle stop trimmed, air box lid removed, White Bros head pipe, silencer and air filter. De-octopussed. Works frame guards and Thumper Rad Guards , Scotts steering damper. Odometer and headlight removed. Moose hand and mud guards. YZ stock tank, IMS seat and number plate. Renthal Jimmy Button "highs" and Renthal Soft half waffle grips. AMA, SETRA, Happy Ramblers MXC.

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Bill,

I have the stock WR tank, but am using the tall seat foam so the dip in the seat is no longer there and makes it a little easier to slide forward. I am running the stock 739. Is that bad? What's better? What is your tripleclamps/forks set at?

Thanks,

HP

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HP,

Even though you have the tall foam. You cannot get as far forward as with the YZ style seat and tank. The difference in the actual seat front is about three inches. Just think about, what could be done, with three extra inches :) of weight, further forward.

I would look at another front tire first (cheaper). The 739 is fine for hard pack, but sucks every where else, IMHO. The popular tire here seems to be the Michelin S12 (front) and 755 (rear).

My fork tubes are 5mm's above the clamp.

Bill

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Ditto what Bill said. Before changing your forks, get a Michelin S12 front tire. Then see if raising them more will help.

The S12's ROCK!

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several blokes are dropping the forks through 13mm which is the maximum without hitting the bars. the steering is still stable but the steering does get a little more lively.

i had tried 18mm & found the bike wagging it's head a lot. on further checking the rear linkage bearings were due for renewal so i did this & the steering is as stable as the 5mm drop.

in conclusion i would say that the standard bike is stable & that depending on all bearings & linkages being in good nick, on the suspension being well sorted; YOU CAN drop the forks through 13/18mm.

i did the 18mm by putting the bar clamps on 5mm spacers. because the arse end was so high i took 20mm out of the diagonal subframe tubes & lowered the seat height 1 1/2".

to finish the job i need a yz tank. i decided to prioritise other parts in the meantime. but that is a must for a lot of the two-man (30 mins on & off) enduro's we have here in great britian.

Taffy

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Look at the Ty Davis tank. It's so narrow at the top it feels like you have no tank at all and it lowers the gas weight down making the bike less top heavy.

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rsira

one thing you learn after a while here is that if they don't want to answer a question-they won't!

i've asked twice "how does the ty davis tank compare with the clarke or ims ". i've yet to recieve a reply.

what i would like to see is a 2 GALLON / 21/2 GALLON tank by ty davis that is literally the same profile as the YZ tank ON TOP.

i hope you can understand what i mean.

so many of my races are only one-hour. crickey! i want to come in after two!

thanks for your opinions.

Taffy

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I rode stock settings for awhile, then made the following changes for really gnarly trails:

Rear: backed off high and low speed compression and increased rebound damping to suit personal preference.

Front: increased rebound damping and dropped triple clamps to first score line on fork tubes.

It is a different bike. It turns pretty well, even with the stock D739. Can't wait to get a 756 on it!

I range from high speed sandy whoops to steep rocky trails in SoCal desert/mountains. Next is a Scott's steering damper for sandwash stability.

These bikes respond quite well to a little adjustment.

Dan

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I want to thank everyone who has or will respond to my post. All this info is great. This board is great! My WR is GREAT!!!

HP

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Do all the things mentioned.

Fr S12 tire. Move forks up a ways (maybe to the first score as Dan had indicted). Now adjust the supension for suppleness. Get handlebar risers or tall bars if you need them. Rear sag needs to be correct for the bike to turn properly too.

The YZ tank is pretty sweet, but can come last if cost is an issue. A used YZ tank is the cheaper way, the TY davis seems to be the trickest out there.

One icing on the cake. Bringing the wheelbase in tighter will help even more. Lower gearing is usually prefered if you're riding trails. Together a 13/50 (just new front sprocker) and a 112 tooth chain will bring the rear wheel forward, and will really bring out the cornering abilities with the above combo's. Or a 14/52 with the stock chain 114 tooth will do the trick, but that's more $$.

I like the Dunlap D755 rear, but I'm going to try an S12 or M12 next. BTW, I ride nasty mud woods, some MX, and open grass fields. t It work really well in some sandy areas, but if the desert terrain is real rocky, the S12's probably won't last.

If the terrain you ride is rocky perhaps search for another tire. Tire choice is probably the best thing you do, along with other mods, the WR can steer quite well.

Good luck

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