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kmcbride

Replacing rear wheel bearing?

6 posts in this topic

Has anybody had to do this yet? I just noticed some slop in my rear wheel. Any special tools needed? Hard to do? OEM or aftermarket?

Thanks in advance, Keith '99YZ400.

[This message has been edited by kmcbride (edited 02-20-2001).]

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Perhaps this will help.

You have two bearings of different sizes that are fully seated into the hub.

Between the two bearings, running the length of the hub, is a compression spacer. There's really no room for a conventional bearing puller, and I would be cautious about any sharp-concentrated force against the hub as well.

I had to remove the bearings on my 00 426 when I had to replace my hub, so let me see if I can recall what I did.

Each bearing has to removed from the opposing end of the hub. This is done by shifting over the spacer enough to expose enough of the bearing's edge to apply a tool that can be hammered against it.

You'll really have to pry the spacer over to get the slightest edge. Once you move the bearing just a little bit, the spacer will move further. The best tool to use against the bearing is something that is flat on the bottom and round on the edge. Most hardware stores have long round-flat edge punches available that work perfectly. Trust me, you'll need the right tool for this job.

It's best to put the hub on the ground, on a board, and then hold it with your feet so you can hit the tool while holding a good pry agisnt the spacer at the same time. If not, the tool loses its edge to easy.

You could use a vice as well, but be careful about too much force being applied against any edges.

I also found that it works best to apply some heat to the outer edge of the hub around the bearing before removing it.

And if I remember correctly, I think one end has a c-clip in place, which is obvious, so you'll need to remove that before you begin.

What I can't remember is if the spacer moves to the side more freely on one end of the hub verses the other. It seems like I remember that the hub meets up with the spacer on one end but not the other.

You'll quickly discover which is which when you go to move it over. Test for this before you heat the hub.

Once you have the bearing at the edge of the hub you'll then need to raise the hub up to fully remove the bearing.

And when removing the other bearing, and when installing the new bearings, it's best to appy force on the other race of the bearing.

You can chill the new bearings and heat the hub before re-installing as well.

I think that about does it.

Best of luck.

DaveJ

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I have a special tool with 5 adapters. Adapter fits tighly into the id. of the bearing. From the other side you slide

tool drive bar into slot on adapter. Bar is

slotted on end and it expands adapter againest the id. if the bearing . Take heavt hammer and tap on bar end. Pops out no problems. Lube od. of new bearing with light coat of never seize before you press it back in. Keeps bearing from corroding and makes removal next time easier.

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One more thing....Don't heat that hub. Aluminium warps and with all the hub snapping problems I wouldn't do it. Cool bearing ...lube and go for it. Make sure it is straight and use something a socket the same od as the bearing . DON"T forget the inner spacer.

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Thanks guys, I think I will try to find the tool BigMike described as I will likely be doing this again. Did you guys go with OEM or aftermarket. I found a site for CBR bearings but I do not know anything about them. It would be worth it to me to spend a little extra for some quality. I do try to keep up with greasing etc. but I ride in some nasty stuff from coal piles to sand. I suppose nearly 2 years is not bad. I really can't complain, my XR600 ate through a set of bearings every year I owned it.

Keith.

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I know this is an old thread, but hey, I found it and read it!

After taking out my rear bearings, I see that the side with the C-clip has little posts that center that spacer/tube thing. So, to move over the spacer, start at the other end, where it has more room to move (there isn't anything on that end to support the spacer). After you nudge the bearing a tad, that spacer loosens up and the job gets much easier. After reading the previous posts, it took just a few minutes to free the first bearing.

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